* LOUD POP *NO POWER *BLUE SMOKE
#1
Accelerating briskly down a country lane then a very loud pop, complete loss of power and blue smoke ou the back.
**** I thought that I'd blown a piston, local garage came out (he owns a 33O cossie) - transpires the large Samco hose had blown completely off the intercooler connection hence the loud pop.
50minutes later I was on my way, thinking how lucky I'd been not have lost power in a critical overtaking manouvre.
I always check my hose connections but this one is out of sight under the intercooler (UK 1994) so is impossible to get to unless you get at it from underneath or take off the intercooler and other pipework and the strutbrace.
Garage said he's had this quite alot with other scoobies.
Best check yours if you can - could cost you critical power at the wrong moment - I was very lucky being on a deserted road at the time.
Cheers
**** I thought that I'd blown a piston, local garage came out (he owns a 33O cossie) - transpires the large Samco hose had blown completely off the intercooler connection hence the loud pop.
50minutes later I was on my way, thinking how lucky I'd been not have lost power in a critical overtaking manouvre.
I always check my hose connections but this one is out of sight under the intercooler (UK 1994) so is impossible to get to unless you get at it from underneath or take off the intercooler and other pipework and the strutbrace.
Garage said he's had this quite alot with other scoobies.
Best check yours if you can - could cost you critical power at the wrong moment - I was very lucky being on a deserted road at the time.
Cheers
#2
You don't need top remove the STI strutbrace to get the intercooler out. I guess you may have a different strut brace.
I don't trust the boost side hose clamps unless I have torqued them up using a small ratchet handle drive rather than merely a screwdriver handle type driver.
I don't trust the boost side hose clamps unless I have torqued them up using a small ratchet handle drive rather than merely a screwdriver handle type driver.
#3
I agree Moray, intercooler came out OK with the strutbrace still on but it was a bit more tricky getting it back in with the pipe now attached (on the road repair so couldn't tighten from underneath), so strut brace removed to give more room, then put back on.
The ratchet idea - totally agreed - this what the guy did to make sure it doesn't fail again...
Cheers
The ratchet idea - totally agreed - this what the guy did to make sure it doesn't fail again...
Cheers
#4
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Yep.
The Samco kit for the slanty IC's isn't the best for ease of fitting. You have to cut and reuse part of the plastic pipework you thought you were replacing - and mate this onto the Samco hose. You can tighten up this joint as much as you can but since theres no barb (or lip) then this connection is prone to coming off.
However its still worth doing though, the OE bit of pipework you do replace can get brittle and split, and may well be restrictive when running at increased boost pressure.
Justin
The Samco kit for the slanty IC's isn't the best for ease of fitting. You have to cut and reuse part of the plastic pipework you thought you were replacing - and mate this onto the Samco hose. You can tighten up this joint as much as you can but since theres no barb (or lip) then this connection is prone to coming off.
However its still worth doing though, the OE bit of pipework you do replace can get brittle and split, and may well be restrictive when running at increased boost pressure.
Justin
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Guys, Here's agood trick I was told a few years ago when I ran a Skyline and had the same problem happen to me.
Clean up the faces of the turbo pipe connections [ rubber and metal etc ] with petrol or thinners [ something that evaporates dry without oily residue] Spray both surfaces with hair lacquer and fit tightly. When the heat gets to it the joins are sealed like glue and it'll only come off when you want it to.
Some hoses come off because of oil in the induction charge gets into the join - loss of friction, 'POP', off comes a hose. Hair lacquer is not affected by oil.
Personally I recommend Harmony full strength for flyaway hair !! LOL Seriously try it, it works a treat
David API Engines
Clean up the faces of the turbo pipe connections [ rubber and metal etc ] with petrol or thinners [ something that evaporates dry without oily residue] Spray both surfaces with hair lacquer and fit tightly. When the heat gets to it the joins are sealed like glue and it'll only come off when you want it to.
Some hoses come off because of oil in the induction charge gets into the join - loss of friction, 'POP', off comes a hose. Hair lacquer is not affected by oil.
Personally I recommend Harmony full strength for flyaway hair !! LOL Seriously try it, it works a treat
David API Engines
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