p1 nackered!!!! over fuelin???
#1
just taken my p1 in to the dealer due to a smoking problem (blue smoke) its the 2nd piston its burnt + nackered! gettin a new block + piston fitted! iv hada a few mods done (decatt, dump value, upgraded fuel pump) cud any of theses be why my p1`s nackered????? iv bin speakin 2 a few people they seem to think my cars been over fuelin + the upgraded fuel pump cud be the problem??? sud my car of bin remapped because of the new pump???.............thanx michael
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On P1s or STis the decat can aggravate a known lean spot where they tend to det. This is worsened if there is a boost spike.
Decats are a totally different matter on engines not based on imports. The P1 has a small tweak to the ECU to increase knock sensitivity a little but it is still on the edge to start with.
Get the MAF and knock sensors checked as well as the injectors and fuel pressure on full load when it is rebuilt. In addition fit a knocklink.
Decats are a totally different matter on engines not based on imports. The P1 has a small tweak to the ECU to increase knock sensitivity a little but it is still on the edge to start with.
Get the MAF and knock sensors checked as well as the injectors and fuel pressure on full load when it is rebuilt. In addition fit a knocklink.
#6
p1 + decat + air filter==det
not an expert but anyone running a sti or p1 with decat and airfilter get a knocklink quick and a remap asap
these cars are on the limit and will go pop very easily if not monitored and adjusted accordingly
read this as get as many monitors as u can
knocklink and lamdalink are basic requirments
after this if u start modding the car u will need someway of keeping an eye on everything
my car before i sold it had oil press/oil temp boost/exh temp/fuel pressure and aux w/temp
if u fit uprated fuel pump the standard regulator may well play up as well mine was 3.7 bar at idle
not an expert but anyone running a sti or p1 with decat and airfilter get a knocklink quick and a remap asap
these cars are on the limit and will go pop very easily if not monitored and adjusted accordingly
read this as get as many monitors as u can
knocklink and lamdalink are basic requirments
after this if u start modding the car u will need someway of keeping an eye on everything
my car before i sold it had oil press/oil temp boost/exh temp/fuel pressure and aux w/temp
if u fit uprated fuel pump the standard regulator may well play up as well mine was 3.7 bar at idle
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#8
well im trying 4 it under the warranty.......but ill pay if not! so guys what 2 do next??? shall i put the cat back on 2 bed the car back in again? then get a remap(motec)/data dash/ maybe a (sports cat???) instead of the decatt? thanx guys you`ve bin very helpfull! i did try + get a data dash fitted at the same time as the decatt but they sold out of pods!!!
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yup, I've got a P1 as well and a decat DP sitting on my garage floor. Long term I'm going to be getting a EcuTek3 remap which uses the existing ECU and it's abit tricky for the Subaru garages to detect (wouldn't say impossible )
With that, decat dp, filter and 3 port boost solenoid you'll be looking aroudn 320bhp
With that, decat dp, filter and 3 port boost solenoid you'll be looking aroudn 320bhp
#12
The P1s have a known (by Subaru) problem with fueling - as in there's not enough, particularly in one cylinder (which one I can't remember, but it sounds like it's number 2 )
As I'm pretty sure that the JECS (it is the JECS in the P1, isn't it?) doesn't fuel seperately for each cylinder, is would semm that the best thing to do would be to go for the parallel fuel feed & then get a remap done (whatever & whichever ECU) by someone who has noticed that we have different fuel here to Japan (so any of the mappers who hang out on here are ok ).
Can't think why the P1 would have the individual cylinder problem & not others - presumably because it's so much 'closer to the edge' it causes the problem...? Or maybe Subaru UK just ignore the imports (which also have it?) on which the P1 is based so don't include them in the 'problem' list? I don't suppose they'll tell us!
As I'm pretty sure that the JECS (it is the JECS in the P1, isn't it?) doesn't fuel seperately for each cylinder, is would semm that the best thing to do would be to go for the parallel fuel feed & then get a remap done (whatever & whichever ECU) by someone who has noticed that we have different fuel here to Japan (so any of the mappers who hang out on here are ok ).
Can't think why the P1 would have the individual cylinder problem & not others - presumably because it's so much 'closer to the edge' it causes the problem...? Or maybe Subaru UK just ignore the imports (which also have it?) on which the P1 is based so don't include them in the 'problem' list? I don't suppose they'll tell us!
#15
nice....site sonic!!! all this stuff is way over my head guys! have u done this fuel feedin thing 2 your car nom???? is it safe??? how *** subaru havnt work out this problem + do this mod on sti/p1`s as stardard (from new)? soooooooo get a remap asap after i get my car back??? even tho it needs beddin in again?..............cheers michael
#16
next question for ya`s...........which remap to get??? thinkin about a motec there meant to be the best??? not that bothered about the warranty coz it runs out in about 4/5 months anyway. just want the best + the safest? what about air filters? r cold air induction the best? or not?...........cheers
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My advice from the practical viewpoint is to take all the mods off, get it fixed and use a boost gauge and knocklink. Find out and correct the underlying cause of the present engine failure.
Get it properly run in and thoroughly right in standard form whilst under warranty - if you've still got one because of your mods.
Then carefully research all the modification options again and start again. With basic monitoring from a knocklink and the boost gauge along with good oil after running in you have the best chance of this not happening again, especially if you can identify what caused the failure this time.
Just throwing in a new engine and not trying very hard to find a cause could have the same problem occurring again.
Get it properly run in and thoroughly right in standard form whilst under warranty - if you've still got one because of your mods.
Then carefully research all the modification options again and start again. With basic monitoring from a knocklink and the boost gauge along with good oil after running in you have the best chance of this not happening again, especially if you can identify what caused the failure this time.
Just throwing in a new engine and not trying very hard to find a cause could have the same problem occurring again.
#18
Have I done the parallel fuel-rail mod? No. Have others? Yes - it is seen as a 'safety mod'.
All manufacturers make same *****-ups when they make stuff - some just deal with them in different ways to others. Subaru doesn't deal with them very well...
I agree with John 100% on the 'way to go' thing. Drive the thing as standard (keeping an eye on the knocklink & AFR) until the problem is sorted. 'Sorting it' to me means getting the car mapped correctly, but I may be wrong or over-simplyfying things. As for the ECU, the critical thing is the mapper, not the physical ECU. Unless you intend to do some serious stuff with the car (run ALS, huge injectors, etc.) then the standard ECU remapped is fine, as is the Link (probably the most popular aftermarket ECU, due to its price & not overcomplicating itself with - for road use - unnecessary gadgets, but it does cope with big injectors, unlike the JECS). Anyway, find the mapper you are happiest with, and ask them. The only commercial one I kow of that caters for multiple ECUs is Bob Rawle (BR Developments) who can give a very open opinion, and will also point you in the direction of other reliable, safe mappers if there's some reason he can't cover you.
All manufacturers make same *****-ups when they make stuff - some just deal with them in different ways to others. Subaru doesn't deal with them very well...
I agree with John 100% on the 'way to go' thing. Drive the thing as standard (keeping an eye on the knocklink & AFR) until the problem is sorted. 'Sorting it' to me means getting the car mapped correctly, but I may be wrong or over-simplyfying things. As for the ECU, the critical thing is the mapper, not the physical ECU. Unless you intend to do some serious stuff with the car (run ALS, huge injectors, etc.) then the standard ECU remapped is fine, as is the Link (probably the most popular aftermarket ECU, due to its price & not overcomplicating itself with - for road use - unnecessary gadgets, but it does cope with big injectors, unlike the JECS). Anyway, find the mapper you are happiest with, and ask them. The only commercial one I kow of that caters for multiple ECUs is Bob Rawle (BR Developments) who can give a very open opinion, and will also point you in the direction of other reliable, safe mappers if there's some reason he can't cover you.
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quattroowner
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15 November 2014 08:24 PM