Dizzy

but I dont want to marry you!

ps. where are you? wouldn't mind seeing an APS in place and getting some info on performance improvement

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

glad it is fitted mate. you will reap the benefits.

to fit the cast pipe you have to undo the engine mounting bolt at that side and then jack the engine up at that side. Fits in fairly easy then without removing heat shield

pban

Its on now mate, I did consider the engine mounts (as per your post) but a bit above my ability.

I have a little rattle coming from that pipe now, didn't you have the same? How did you cure it? Its the heat shield I think, I was going to fit some spacers and try and bring the pipe a little lower and further out.

Have notice how the boost stays really consistent now.

Thanks for help mate

Paul

Pavlo

I don't think anyone that has ever fitted an APS FMIC has even heard any knocking pipes before, how very unusual indeed!

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Lol at Paul.

To cure the knock, i firstly supported the turbo to aluminium pipe with a large cable tie to the strut brace, crudely above the starter motor. This takes some of the weight off the cast pipe and thus reduces "some" of the knocking.

We then tried welding the cast pipe to the bracket it comes with, due to my cast pipe having no thread for it to bite into. This cured it marginally, but not much.

We then wrapped some very large cable ties around the cast pipe, back to the bracket and anti roll bar, pulling them very tight.

After this you could move the pipe up and down by holding the silicone hose near the starter motor and moving that up and down. However, to make the noise we had to a pply a bit of force.

So on that assumption, we left it on the grounds that we applied more force than it would in normal circumstances.

To date it has not knocked since.

Steven

pban

Steven

Thanks once again

Paul

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

NP Paul

Bob Rawle

Easiest way to cure the knock is to undo and remove the two nuts holding the engine mounts in place, jack up the engine a touch and then push it sideways towards the off side, drop it back down and refit and retighten (very important that bit). Sounds horrendous but straightforward especially for two people, otherwise the cast pipe erodes away where it rubs the headers.

bob

pban

Thanks Bob

I'll have a go at that

Paul

pban

I'm still getting a slight rattle/knock with the cast pipe by the header.

I need to shift the engine on the engine mounts as Bob states in his post, can someone point me to these nuts thats hold the engine mounts which I need to loosen to move the engine?

Paul

pban

Finally managed to finish fitting the kit. Was having some problem on Saturday hence a cry for help on scoobynet.

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=195687

Seemed to struggle with the same bits as everyone else which was the metal pipe that goes between the headers and the body. Very tight, I had to remove the heat shield to get it through then it took me ages to get the heat shield back on again. Then getting the rubber pipe connected was another adventure

The holes pre-drilled in the support brackets at the bottom of the IC didn't line up with the holes on the car. I had to slot these slighty to get the bolts in.

Would also like to agree with Davis Wallis about the supplied templates, not the most helpful things in the box.

Anyway, I hope when the rest of the mods are done to the car I will reap the benefits of the FMIC Anyone else out there that is contemplating fitting this kit one piece of advice - DON'T DO IT. No seriously, have plenty of time available and a very understanding wife like mine.

Did some logging with the Delta Dash now and I'm seeing -1 degee Knock correction, think I read somewhere this is OK, but can someone confirm this?





[Edited by pban - 4/7/2003 3:38:58 PM]

pban

Dizzy

Thanks for pointing out my deliberate mistake.

I live near Camberly

Paul

[Edited by pban - 4/7/2003 3:40:31 PM]