sparkster

impreza wrx jap import 93 currently running on optimax plus octane booster. Only engine mod is a K and N induction kit.

Just had to replace my engine a week ago when the No 3 Big End Shell spun. It occured after a period of detting within a couple of weeks of fitting the induction kit.

I'm getting the same pinging noise when i give it a bit of welly. Audible det for the second time. Just forked out 3k to get my car sorted!!!

The replacement engine is a second hand with around 40,000 miles like the one that went the first time. All anciliries swapped over from other engine.

The question is how the hell do you stop your car detting? Is it because the car is running lean? Do i need to upgrade injectors? etc. I dont care what it costs because whats the point in having a scooby that you have to drive around at snail pace to stop the engine blowing up.

Please could anybody help

sparkster

Just to add. I did reset the ECU yesterday and i'm guessing that it would have put it back to its original Jap settings for Jap fuel.

How am i ever going to increase the power in this car if my engine acts up?

Pavlo

How did you "sort" the engine?

I wouldn't be surprised if your ECU has a japanese chip in it. What sort of boost does it run at the moment?

What you need to sort isn't the engine, it's most likely the ECU. Other options would be injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and maybe even a split hose prior to the turbo.

Paul

David_Wallis

also are you sure the audible pinging noise isnt the heat shields, or is it definitely det?

David

sparkster

Its definately dett. Exactly the same noise as before the death of my other engine. Happened today in fifth gear with a heavy left foot.

Paul, having read a bit more, i think your right. (Other engine blew up straight after it had been serviced - i bet you that the ecu was reset during this service putting it back to its jap specs again and using optimax wasnt a high enough RON value)

The question is can you get the engine remapped so that it takes away the detting problem (retard ignition?) but at the same time does the usuals like increase boost etc?

Would be good if i could kill two birds with one stone. Eg remove detting problem and increase performance!!

Any suggestions

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Sounds possible someone may have messed up a few pipes when fitting the induction kit. If both engines are doing it, then it is nothing to do with the engine itself.
You neeed to know what boost pressure it is running at, and check all pipes to and from wastegate/boost control solenoid are as they should be.

sparkster

Its running at just over 1 bar that is when i can take my eye off the road to look down. Gauge isnt in the best position.

Lol - i did fit the induction kit myself but have had it checked and double checked just to make sure that i'm not a muppet!

The more i think about it the more i think that its a mapping problem but will definately have a look at what you suggets

ta

Mark

Pete Croney

The car should be running at 0.8bar so something is definitely not standard.

dowser

MAF sensor under-reading leading to leaner fuelling?

Richard

sparkster

So Pete, are you saying that a higher than normal boost is causing the engine to run lean? Does an engine that runs lean lead to detting?

Pavlo

Your engine isn't neccessarily running lean, detonation can occur with too much boost for a given ignition/fuel, or too much advance for the boost etc etc.

What we are saying is that your ECU is deffo not standard, but might just be okay on 100-102 ron jap fuel. If it were running standard boost, you might get away with it on UK fuel, but not as it is.

Paul

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Sparkster,
you said that your other engine blew up straight after a service??
To me that sounds like lack of oil rather than det.
Also why would the garage want to reset your ecu???
I would personally now go for a knock link, a remapped ecu to ensure that your car is fuelling properly, dependent on which induction kit (i personally wouldnt fit one to a scoob) you have, i would look around to see which ones can cause problems (some of the mushroom ones supposedly).
just my input

Tony

sparkster

I took my car down to the petrol station this evening and filled up with optimax + added STP octane booster. Then ran the car for a good forty five minutes to get the new fuel round the sytem and hopefully allow for the ECU to sort detonation problems out.

Then put the car into third on a quiet road, wound down the windows, turned of the radio and listened. When i put my foot down the sound had gone. Thats not to say that the car is still not detting. It might just not be audible.

I'm gonna get a knock link(i take it that it tells you when detting is occurring with this?) Anybody know how much they cost?

Mark

P.s. I'm kinda understanding your hesitation for not getting an induction kit. Mine sounds like if it sucked any harder it would pull the clothes off pedestrians as i go by. Probably inhalled some girls dress when i lost my last engine lol

Pavlo

Sparkster,

If you can live without your ECU for a few days I can pick it's brains and put a new more UK friendly ignition map in it.

If you so inclined you might want to have a look at the ecu. It's under a footplate under the carpet inthe Fr passenger footwell. It may be a well know ECU like a 'Mines' or 'Prova' but there are quite a few lesser known chips out there, and some of them are rather pants to be honest.

Paul

sparkster

Paul got the foot plate off just now but dont know what i should be looking at. Is it the writing on the box that will tell me the type of chip?

Mark

hypoluxa

You will probably have to remove the ecu case to identify the board/chip.

Pavlo

The mines and Prova ECUs are remapped factory jobbies, the ECU should have a 2 digit code like V7, W6, Z9 or any other seemingly random combination.

If you really want to see further, you can remove the ecu and remove the cover held on by 3 screws each side.

If you're unplugging the ECU, I find it best to use a flat blade screw driver to push down the locking tab (in the middle of each connector) and lever out the connector shell. This is better then just pulling on the loom I find. Once out a few mm it's safe to pull on the loom.

Once open you should see either a plug in Eprom in a socket (probably with a paper label on) alternatively a small PCB about 2" x3" with 2 Eproms and some smaller ICs. Either way you might find something of note on the labels or PCB (if used).

The ECU in general should be marked up JECS, Unisa Jecs or UJ depending on where you look. One alternative is that it's a replacement ECU like a Power FC, but they tend to be in a new case also and should be marked up with "Apexi Power FC" or similar.

Paul

sparkster

This is what it says:

W6

Jecs Unisia Co Ltd

Made in Japan

russell hayward

Can I state the obvious :- stop hammering your car until the problem is diagnosed, unless you want another big bill !!

sparkster

Russel,

Shes tucked in nicely in the garage and wont be moving till i get it sorted out!!

sparkster

Oh by the way - thanks Dad