After running normal unleaded in my 98MY UK Turbo for 2 years, I've now fitted an ITG Panel filter,TSL backbox and de-cat centre section. I'm having a de-cat DownPipe fitted on Wednesday and have just filled with optimax. Do I need an ECU reset, and does anyone know if TSL do them ?





cheers





mark

[Edited by markwild - 2/1/2003 10:34:27 PM]

 

Just disconnect your battery for 30 minutes - that's it reset done!! At least that's how i do it - easier than dismantling my column and connecting the cables!! (I'm lazy)!!!!

 

There's no way the ECU resets itself after a simple battery disconnect. There are two way's : or you use the steering column cable method, or you go to the dealer and he will perform it with his OBD.
I know there are several guys and tuners that will say that a batt. disc. is enough but it's NOT. I mailed a while ago SUBARU BENELUX and they told me to do the above mentioned way... or the highway, so make a choiche for yourself...

 

Can it be done on a new age - the cable method??

 

try it - it works! I suspect that they may be trying to persuade you to part with some cash! I have done the reset by connecting the green and black connectors under the column and also by disconnecting the battery - both methods give the same result!!!

It is simply a matter of clearing an electronic memory from a chip!! it will clear all error codes as well as the "learned" settings from fuel etc...

using the connectors works fine - i just find it quicker and easier to disconnect the battery!!!

 

The ECU adapt itself to the poor quality of fuel used in your car, that goes as fast as it needs to adjust. But when you use, say Optimax, then the Ecu must adapt in the other way to the better quality. The only downside is that this goes very, very slow. Thats just a precaution from Subaru for safety instead of a motor blow up. You can accelerate this with a ECU reset. That the one and only reason to do it;
In case you don't believe me : mail to Subaru England or buy a decent manual like the MRT Workshop part II.

Wally

 

I also read a lot of topics here and now I see that some English dealers want to make money on everything. LUkily I have a dealer in Belgium that has more respect for his customers than for his bank account. He did a lot of work for me for free and is always ready to help, even on a Sunday evening at 10pm.

 

sounds like a great dealer wally!! you are very lucky!!

 

mark - I am pretty sure that TSL or any other specialist Subaru Tuner will do a reset for you!

 

Yeah, if you ever come to Belgium, I will be delighted to introduce you. He bought a while ago the complete ECUTEK for us and we stay up a few nights just to learn how to use it. We try all the things on his car first and then to our cars. I never met any dealer that is so commited to his job;
Even when we go to the 'ring', he comes with us to give some logistics and help all the way to Germany, great dealer he is !!!!!

 

I also recomend to every body the MRT Manual, thats a tuning company in Australia. They have a website where you can order it. That manual contains everything you need to know about modifing and maintenaince for a Scooby. The Euro, English, STI, RS, and all the other versions available. It's like a bible for us !!!

 

Thanks guys - that confirms what I thought - I've no idea how to reset it via cables, and don't really want to go back to the dealer - see my tale on wildsworld

Also, I'm a bit nervous of disconnecting the battery, as I'm not sure if my CD player has a security code - I suppose I ought to find out !
I'll check with TSL, as I'm there on Wednesday.

I'll also check out the MRT manual....
Thanks,

Mark

 

Mark, the battery disconnect will also reset the ECU, but why bother? It's only going to have to re-learn everything so will not be optimum straight away.

In the same way, the ECU will optimise itself for your new set-up - just drive it! The pre-99 ECUs are a bit slower, but you can get a 99/00 ECU to reach optimum in a few spirited minutes with help from a bit of left-foot braking - not recommended, though

Richard.

 

any view on how slow the ECU advances timing etc to make use of the new fuel ?

 

I wouldn't hope for there to be much of a change in a few minutes! I'd put it closer to a couple of tanks. Depends on what you were filling up with before though, I suppose!

 

Can't say I have a great knowledge on this subject but computers I do and I was lead to believe the ecu uses averages and that would mean it takes alot longer for the ecu to change the longer you've been driving it since the last reset, if you follow that.
Disconnecting the battery is NOT going to reset an eprom, the connecting of two wires is the way it's just like shorting out the eprom on a mother board to wipe the bios.
Go for the two wires trick or use the dealer/tuners services they'll do it(anything for money).

Later

 

Just like the flames.

 

wildrider - yes that is how it works but disconnecting for 30 minutes will reset it!
Actually 12 minutes should do it but I always use 30 just to be sure. In the same way that a computer eeprom can be reset by cutting of its power source (removing the battery) it will retain its data for a set amount of time but will lose it after a certain period. On the scooby that period is about 12 minutes.

I don't know about the bug eye scooby that may be different.

 

Eprom's don't need power to retain there info they need power to program them, that's what eprom standards for. So Highlander how does disconnecting the battery reset that eprom, sorry but it doesn't make sense.

 

Guys,

I don't know about the ECU, but I'd have thought that the base map and program were stored in Eprom, with the modified data feeds (current averaged data etc) being stored in RAM (probably capacitor based) ?
Therefore, disconnecting the battery and waiting 12-30 mins is enough to drain capacitance and 'lose' learned data, thereby resetting the map to standard. I do agree with the comment that the ECU needs to 're-learn', but , as the ECU will have backed off much further than the optimax requires already, nothing is to be lost and all is to be gained ?

Looking around on Scoobynet has made me a bit nervous that a complete re-map may really be needed to make use of de-cat full system and Panel Filter, but I cant afford that and will have to cross my fingers that the car is not WORSE than now - although it is suggested somewhere that a UK 98 car will NOT suffer overboost at this stage of tune without the re-map.

Given that Eprom has a limited life (number of re-progs), would the 'live' map really be stored in this way (and why ?)

Mark

 

Thanks markwild that sounds more like it. Maybe disconnecting will/does work(highlander). I'll have ago, mines not been done since I've had it and it seems no better for the opitmax and its had lots of it.

later

 

Guys here is some info which is a general HOW TO: with regards to ECU's and setting them - afraid I can't give you the reference of where I got it as I can't remember.

ECU Reset
Definition
The ECU "learns" about your engine as you drive the car. The "learning" is actually a process that the ECU uses to track the tolerance changes of the sensors and actuators on the engine. Two examples of these values are the position of the idle-air bypass valve (automatic choke) at idle with the A/C on, and the trim gain on the injectors. The ECU stores these "learned" values in battery backed-up RAM so that it doesn't have to start from scratch the next time you turn your engine over.

"Resetting the ECU" is the process of clearing all the long term memory from the ECU's memory. These variables trim idle speed, fuel, spark, and more. The ECU will also store trouble codes for diagnostic capability. By resetting the ECU, the trim values will be set to some neutral default value and all of the trouble codes will be cleared.

How-To
To "reset" the ECU, all you have to do is remove the source of backup power. To keep the memory alive while the car is off, the ECU has a direct line, through a fuse, that goes right to the battery. This is usually the same line and fuse that supplies backup power to your radio so it doesn't forget all of its settings.

 

Here is advice on how to do the reset using the green and black connectors under the steering column. This is courtesy of MRT in Australia http://www.mrtrally.com.au

How to re-set your ECU unit.
NOTE: This is only applicable to MY93-00 (GCA) models. The later model MY01
(GDA) onwards require the use of a product such as the DeltaDash or similar
to reset the ECU. Please see www.ecutek.com.au/delta-dash.htm for
more information.
ECU clear memory procedure is as follows for auto and manual transmissions:
1. With engine at operating temperature, turn engine off. Place gear shift lever into park (auto transmission cars only)
2. Locate the two ECU check connectors, for most cars they are located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector. The exact location of the connectors varies with the different year models, but generally they are located under the steering column on the drivers side.
NOTE: sometimes they are still taped over with some small amount of plastic tape, so look hard, they will be there!
With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
3. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, (and for auto transmission, cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park ), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release.
Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
4. ECU is now re-set.
5. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
6. Once, stop the car and turn off the engine.
7. Disconnect the plugs.
8. Job complete

 

If you do the reset using the green and black plugs be sure to disconnect them again after the reset is done - otherwise your scooby will have rather un-Scoobylike performance!!!!

 

returning to marks original post, regarding reset as he has several mods and started using Optimax

This is just my opinion and am sure other on here will be much more technically aware than I am - but I would do the reset instantly in order that the ECU learns about your new setup. If you don't do it - it will eventually learn but it will take time.

I am unsure of this bit so it could be wrong but if your ECU delivers only the amount of fuel necessary with your old setup the engine may run leaner for a while till it learns the new setup. This I think means you are closer to experiencing detting.

Mark I don't think with the mods you have done you are going to have any problems but I always like to err on the side of safety.

If you are dealing with TSL speak to them regarding it - I have never used them but have heard nothing but good reports regarding them.

- I use Optimax with Millers Octane Boost all the time on my MY93 WRX (JDM) which has a closed deck engine, full mongoose exhaust, Type RA ECU, Bailey Dump Valve and an induction kit. The engine is currently running 1.2 BAR boost and I use Optimax with Octane Boost in order to stay as far as possible away from the dreaded detonation which can terminally damage engines especially modded ones. My understanding is that if the fuel runs too lean you approach detonation and several things help avoid that - stronger spark, cooler plugs, higher octane fuel and lower boost levels....

 

Thanks Guys (I'd like to point out that Mark (of original post) is of course me!)

I think I'll get TSL to do the reset. I've had it reset at the dealer a couple of years ago, when I had a faulty throttle linkage fixed, so I guess it learns the idle position and other 'good' stuff fairly quickly.

Highlander, I'm running standard boost, as I've no extra guages or any way of modifying it, so I should be OK (!?)- but if it blows, I'll give you the opportunity of saying that you told me so !

Has anyone got a view on my other query regarding running standard ECU and my other mods (ITG Filter + Full De-cat) ? I've heard that it should be OK with a UK 98MY, but it'd be nice if someone with one can confirm...

Thanks again,

Mark

 

There is much talk on here about reseting ECU's and letting them relearn? Some say diconect the battery? I have a MY99 UK with a TEK2. Why and when would I need an ECU reset? and would it effect my TEK2? How do you get the ECU to learn to give maximum power the available?? What is the point of it all? Pardon my ignorance, and my speling.

 

mark running the std ecu with your mods is fine,mine works fine with full decat and an apexi pod with samco hoses,but it is a my00.