Steve Fort

Just checked the oil level on my P1 and it needs topping up. Shall i top it up with synthetic oil? Which kind of oil do Subaru main dealers use on a service?

Cheers

Steve

Hoppy

Congratulations, Steve. You're the first person to ask this question today

The answer is use semi-synth up to the first proper service (to bed the motor in) then good fully synth thereafter. Never push the motor until the oil is warm (mine takes approx three times longer than the water takes to reach normal) and always allow cooling down before switching off after a run.

Oils to use are Motul (forget the exact spec, but from ScoobyMania) or Castrol RS 10-60, or Mobil Motorsport 15-50. Do not use 0 or 5 rated oils as they are too thin for a turbo motor.

Change the oil every 3/4,000 miles, use an official Subaru filter. Fill the filter with oil and keep topping up to the absolute brim before fitting, then disconnect the crank sensor (under alternator) and crank the engine on the starter motor until the oil pressure light goes out (30-secs to 1 minute). Reconnect sensor and the engine will fire up and the job's a good 'un.

Important - the paragraph above is believed to prevent expensive blow-ups that sometimes occur shortly after a service, especially the filter-filling part.

That is a distillation of several miles of text posted here over the last couple of years.

Cheers,

Richard.

Edited to add, just re-read your question about mixing oils and mixing synth and semi-synth is prolly okay, but why not change it anyway for some good stuff? Do NOT overfill. Subaru garages use all kinds of oil, often semi-synth which they buy cheaply in bulk and bung into every car they service for a nice mark-up. If you want to look after your engine, the above procedure is the best thing you can do. How much oil are you using? Most Scoobs use virtually none. Keep an eye on it.

[Edited by Hoppy - 25/01/2003 15:53:54]

[Edited by Hoppy - 25/01/2003 15:58:53]

Dark Blue Mark

Hoppy, made me chuckle (1st person to ask today)

Why cant people use the search first [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

MB

TBMeech

lol @ Hoppy

STi-Frenchie

Hmm...if 5 rated oils are too thin as you say, why does the owner's manual (at least here in France) recommend using them? Why is a 5 rated oil too thin?

Sorry to play Devil's Advocate but I've got an inquisitive mind, and the only way I can learn more is by asking questions!

Thanks in advance.

STi-Frenchie

With regard to the observation about searching first...searching for "oil" brings back exactly...zero results. I was looking for information earlier this week and noticed this. Pity it's like that but c'est la vie!

Hoppy

Frenchie, agree about the search. Before posting my reply, I did the "oil" search and also came up with ziltch - that's why I responded. (Lack of search is a serious failing on ScoobyNet - I know there are problems related to the huge volume of traffic - nice problem, eh ? - amongst other things, but useless search only creates more repetitive posts )

All I can say about not using 0-5 rated oils is that they're considered by the experts on here to be too thin when the turbo gets hot. I'm no expert, but I truly believe that many people who post on here are. They are world class experts. Even Prodrive consult them for their views. And that's what the experts say.

There are lots of things in the service manual that people disagree with, eg I don't use the recommended spark plugs, nor the recommended oil, nor the recommended oil change frequency. But then I have a 2l motor pushing out well over 300bhp. And I don't use the stock ECU map. Or air filter. Or exhaust. Or the recommended tyre spec and pressures. And I use octane booster. And, and, and... my car goes fantastically well and gets better with every mod. Now well over 60,000 miles (96,000 km to you )

There is a case for using 5-? oil in winter to speed up cold-start lubrication and I almost fell for this as on my drive to work, the motor hardly gets properly warm. But just one hour ago I was travelling at considerable speed for a considerable time and as I write I'm glad I had the Castol RS 10-60 in there. In fact, in the morning I'm going to change the oil again, after just 2,500 miles, because of the large number of cold-start short-drives I've been doing lately.

Overkill? Maybe. But it can't do any harm

Richard.

PS I believe the rally teams use Motul. I use the Castrol RS 10-60 because a local dealer always has it in stock for £29 for 4l.

Dark Blue Mark

Single words in search don't seem to work

But if you try "which oil" it works! Not sure why though

MB

Elmer Fudpucker

.....just about to put Mobil 1 0/40 in my old bone.

Dark Blue Mark

Don't do it mr Fudpucker! Far too thin.

Ta again for the loan of the pipe, scraped through

I will give the subaru book to Paul B at the RR day if thats ok?

MB

Elmer Fudpucker

Glad I could help Mark ,no panic regards the book,maybe some of the other Hants mob would like to read it ....

...Right then,i've changed the oil and primed the new filter.
First impressions.....no 'tick,tick,tick'from the cam followers that i normally get.The oil light went out straight away and the engine sounds as sweet as it ever has.
..Considering my driving style and the frequency that i change the oil,i reckon i'd be ok using ' Spry Crisp 'n' Dry!

All The Best
Jon

STi-Frenchie

Hoppy, thanks for your reply - it was very complete and I learned a lot from it.

I wonder if I were to insist on switching to Castrol 10/60 when I next get the car serviced, would the dealer view that as breaking my warranty?

Hoppy

Bon jour, Frenchie You're most welcome.

Now I remember it - search doesn't work for three letters or less!

On the warranty issue, I've been supplying my own oil and plugs for three years (and brake pads, brake fluid, air filter) and neither of the two official Subaru dealers I use has ever even questioned it. In fact, I can't fault their attitide or service and the car always comes back washed and hoovered with the service book neatly stamped. Welch Group in Cambridge and Donalds of Peterborough

But then, my car is so far off being warrantied - the only thing I haven't modded is the glove box - that it really isn't an issue. Having said that, if you had an engine problem and they fussed about the oil, I think they'd be a shakey ground. You could readily produce a barrage of strong evidence from ScoobyNet, for a start. Some oil company techy guys have posted on here about it.

To be fair to Subaru, the only thing they seem to worry about is engine mods like induction kits and full decat pipes. And I frankly don't blame them - without a remap these items can do nasty things to your fuelling and det the motor to oblivion.

But I also have a general view on warranties and that is nobody is going to guarantee something if they think there's any real chance of it breaking.

Richard.

PS They might get stroppy if you don't fit a Subaru oil filter. Apparently this is a very good one, and much better than some after-market jobbies.

BigDude

Hoppy or anyone, Can anyone tell me what the crank sensor actually looks like or have a picture of it? I change my oil between official services (about every 6,000 kms) and always fill the filter. But is disconecting the crank sensor necessary and what does it do? Please more info!

As far as the oil goes: DO NOT USE 0W-40 OILS!!!

Subaru Technical Service Bulletin No 1-1B-015 dated 27.01.99 says not to use 5W-30 and below oils.

I quote:
" Subaru UK technical department have been receiving a large number of queries from both the Subaru Dealer Network and Subaru Turbo owners, relating to the use of Mobil 1 0W-40 engine oil and the companie's official policy regarding its use in our 2.0 Turbo engine.

The only engine oil specifications we would recommend for use in the 2.0 turbo engines are oil grade API classification SG, SJ, SH, SAE viscosity 10W-30, 10W-40. Using SAE 5W-30 or lower viscosity for the turbo models is not recommended, as stated on page 10-14, 10-15 of the Impreza owners handbook A1780GE page 10-14, 10-15."

I know for a fact that a lot of dealers keep on using and even recommending 0W and 5W oils and chose to diregard this bulletin, and can only think it's because of possible deals they have with the oil distributors or ignorance?.

Now I will say, in my personal opinion and experience, (my previous turbo MY 98 was tuned to 260 ps and driven 180,000 kms on Mobil 1 5W-50, and often on German autobahns without a single problem till traded-in) I would only use oils above the 5W-50 range, and now that I own a STi7 only use oils above in the 15W-50, 10W-60 range, especially if the car has any modifications and/or is driven at high speeds. Personally, I use 10W-60.

RA Jaay

Top class post, I aslo used the search and talked to people went to Dealers and E-mailed Pro-drive, this is where I went wrong, too much information! I dont think there was consistancey in any of the encounters I had which left me with all these options but none that really stood out.
Glad you pointed out "Subaru garages use all kinds of oil often semi-synth which they buy cheaply in bulk and bung into every car they service for a nice mark-up" As im sure a lot of people reckon that when their car goes to the Subaru Garage it gets all the good stuff when really its all about the $.
I bought some Castol Rs 10/60 in the end, I felt that the viscosity of this oil would be best suited to the way my car is used.
J

Hoppy

Just to clarify, I did not mean to imply that all Subaru garages use cheap oil for everything. For sure many garages do, and some Subaru garages surely do, but many also know what they're doing and care for their customers' cars properly.

BD, the crank sensor is underneath the alternator. Look behind the radiator fan/s and it sits on the crakcase just above the crank pulley. In my case, UK00 car, there's a grey female half that fits over a male brown. There's a clip to release on top of the female half. Depress and pull apart.

This switches off both fuel and ignition, but the starter motor still turns the engine. Personally, I'm not 100% convinced this procedure is necessary? What's the difference between draining the oil and letting it stand overnight? And when I change the oil, I just warm the motor and do it quickly so that components aren't left to drain bone-dry for hours - only a few minutes.

See, now I'm disagreeing with the experts

Richard.

P1Fanatic

Hoppy - castrol is £21 for 4.5ltrs in Scoobyshop!!!!! Seeing as your already a member and the amount you use then you could save quite a bit mate!

I will be using Castrol RS10-60 for my next service at Welch's. Incedently I asked them if that was gonna be ok and they said fine. Oakleys said they wouldnt even service my car if I brought my own oil

BTW Ive only had one service at Welch's but it was the 30k £450 bad boy and they didnt clean my car at all - was a bit miffed about that. Now I know others get it Im gonna make a point of asking for it.

Simon.

Hoppy

Simon, well spotted! Thanks mate That's a very good price indeed (but only 4l cans, not 4.5). I'll get me a case of it, I reckon, and some more OB

Sorry, but Welch's (Cambridge) didn't clean my car, only Donalds do that (Peterborough).

Richard.

AndyMoody

iTrader: (2)

Are we talking of Oakleys as in Oakley Garage near Bedford?

Do you know what oil they were going to put in?

Andy.

P1Fanatic

Yes it was Oakleys of Bedford - I rang and asked for a 37.5K service price which was £118. Then I asked if I could supply my own oil. They said no as they used Shell Helix and nowt else.

Ah well Hoppy I think I would rather they didnt clean the car tbh as I only trust myself to do it properly.

Simon.

P1Fanatic

Oh yeah Hoppy. I was told you need 4.5ltrs for an impreza (MY00) oil change. Is this true or do you normally take 4.ltrs?

Simon.

Jolly Green Monster 2

Crank sensor :

If you look under the oil filler on the right hand side top of the engine is the cam sensor.. single 10mm bolt head holding it on, it is plastic about 1inch long with three (I think it is three) wires coming out of it.. the crank sensor looks identical and sits inbetween the pulley wheels and belts on the front of the block.
(The cam is easier to locate and then look for the same etc)

I too wonder if it is nessary to disconnect it and crank etc..

I changed the oil last night and prefilled the filter.. one thing I noticed is a fair amount of oil poured out of the filter when undoing it which was above the filter in the flow of oil.. in that once drained and the new prefilled filter installed there was still about 0.5 of a litre no longer in the pipes around the filter area..

Personnally I crank the engine over a few times not allowing it to start to pump the oil a little and then start it.. the oil light goes out like normal..

Perhaps I should disconnect the crank sensor.. I might try it next time.. I suspected I might get a check engine light for no crank sensor signal but cam sensor signal.. and it was 11pm already so figured I had to draw the line somewhere...

Wait a bit and someone will suggest that we should remove the plugs too when cranking... the list goes on..

JGM

[Edited by Jolly Green Monster 2 - 1/29/2003 11:42:24 PM]

mlambert

in the states the reccomended rate is 5w30 but alot of folks use 10w30 for no good reason other than to get worse mpg

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

For my minor oil change service my local dealers wanted £110+. They use Magnatec 10/40.

Got it done at a national garage for the same oil and a filter for £25!

MY00

Is Shell helix ok then?

lpski1

I took mine MY00 in for oil/filter change today, Wilsons in Chadwell Heath, cost of £77 inc VAT !!, although i didnt ask what oil they was using. I think this price also would of included a few other checks i asked them to do. They advised that the Group N discs/pads had worn a ridge into the disc and this should be replaced on next service!! How much is that gonna cost ? !