Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Hi chaps

Rumour has it there's a DIY knocklink project knocking around somewhere (pardon the pun), any news on its development?

cheers

Justin

David_Wallis

No there isnt... Its a commercial project.

David

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

When will it be available David? And what cost?

Last time I heard it was going to be open source but if not then fair play, I just fancied a go at building my own, thats all

Justin

Mickle

Ooo is someone gonna build one with a fancy LCD display to replace those pretty little lights and bring it into the 21st century???

David_Wallis

Dont ask me... Ill point someone in the right direction

David

dowser

Why would you want an LCD display - it will only be any good if it's got a memory....then you can confirm it was det that killed your engine I'll stick with the LED's thanks - 'big red' is pretty hard to miss...

Richard

Mickle

Fair enough, but maybe rectangular LED's that line up together. Just think it needs modernising, that's all

dowser

I mounted Knocklink LED's remotely into the cupholder, along with half the lambdalink leds. Complete b*stard of a job though.

Best design I saw was from Scoobymania I think - they remotely mounted LED's just behind the dash binnacle glass. Don't think this ever saw the light of day though?

Richard

tweenierob

I'm gonna try this at the weekend.
Remove the clocks and drill holes for the LED's to come through the top. i had a quick look earlier and i think i am going to have to remotely wire the LED's as there is not enough room above the Clocks to fit the Knocklink circuit board..
Will post some pics when ive finished..
Rob

Chris.Palmer

All,

Extending LEDs and remote mounting is a good idea.

The only thing to be aware of is that you may need to insert a cap between LED +ve & Gnd on the LM3914. If LEDs are mounted directly on PCB none is required - however - I believe National recommend a 10uf cap if you extend further.

I'll try & dig out the App. Notes for the IC.

Regards,

Chris

[Edited to add]

Yep - just checked 10uf caf should be good enough.

Also if you find the LEDs too bright at night a 4K7 pot between LM3914 Ref. Out (Pin 7) & Gnd should give you a simple Brightness Adjustment.


[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 1/8/2003 6:42:17 PM]

Rob D

Just to show you guys what I've done with my KL in my STI UK.
I extended the wires and leds to a seperate small unit and mounted on the dash.




Cheers,

Rob.

mega_stream

a web cam in your car

tonymy01

I managed to squeeze 10 LEDs in there, putting electrical tape between them to stop them bleeding into each other, and I had to file a bit of plastic to see the top and bottom LEDs.
This is a LM3914 type circuit, modded to be a bit more like the Dawes job (with 1/4 of the voltage range for 10LEDs). But I stuck a commercial wideband sensor/meter in the end of the exhaust recently, and while these LEDs and voltage show approx 10:1, the wideband showed 12:1... I suppose you can't expect much from a narrowband "stoich" sensor.

This circuit takes its power and LED dimming from the clock, and ground from the ECU (I originally also grounded from the clock, but found putting on accessories, e.g. parker lights etc would drop the LEDs down 1 or 2 LEDs..., now grounding at the ECU it is perfect).

R's
Tony

[Edited by tonymy01 - 1/10/2003 4:47:35 AM]