Removing pistons, rods and crank from EJ20
#1
Hi all,
Was just wondering if anyone had any links/advice on removing the pistons, rods and crank from the EJ20? We have actually already removed them to replace the rings and reassembled it, but God, what a pain in the ***!
The only way we saw possible was to crack the two halves of the block and push one part together to form a V. From the open side we could undo two rods. We then reversed the V and could remove the other two rods. There has to be an easier bloody way than that to do it! There's hardly any room to fit a spanner in there let alone the torque wrench my friend has (when reassembling). We are now a little concerned about the tension in the bolts for a couple of the rods.
I can't believe that Subaru go to all this trouble to disassemble/reassemble the bloody block (or am I mistaken) unless of course they have specialised tools to do it. Any advice/links would be much appreciated for future references.
TIA,
Blown_WRX
Was just wondering if anyone had any links/advice on removing the pistons, rods and crank from the EJ20? We have actually already removed them to replace the rings and reassembled it, but God, what a pain in the ***!
The only way we saw possible was to crack the two halves of the block and push one part together to form a V. From the open side we could undo two rods. We then reversed the V and could remove the other two rods. There has to be an easier bloody way than that to do it! There's hardly any room to fit a spanner in there let alone the torque wrench my friend has (when reassembling). We are now a little concerned about the tension in the bolts for a couple of the rods.
I can't believe that Subaru go to all this trouble to disassemble/reassemble the bloody block (or am I mistaken) unless of course they have specialised tools to do it. Any advice/links would be much appreciated for future references.
TIA,
Blown_WRX
#2
when dismantling, you remove the pistons before splitting the block halves.
if you look on the block, you will see the access plugs, 14 hex fitting. remove these plugs and rotate the crank till you see the gudgeon pins though the holes. using long nose pliers, remove the circlip holding the pin in place, then push the pin out from the other side of the block, piston is then free. pins are fully floating so just push out easy.
when refitting, fit pistons after assembling block.
p.s. rod bolts are 34 lb.ft torque.
hope this helps
ian
if you look on the block, you will see the access plugs, 14 hex fitting. remove these plugs and rotate the crank till you see the gudgeon pins though the holes. using long nose pliers, remove the circlip holding the pin in place, then push the pin out from the other side of the block, piston is then free. pins are fully floating so just push out easy.
when refitting, fit pistons after assembling block.
p.s. rod bolts are 34 lb.ft torque.
hope this helps
ian
#7
If it can I reckon it would almost be as much trouble as removing the engine doing it . It's hard enough changing the bloody spark plugs on it let alone removing the bolts that hold the heads onto the block.
I don't recall rubber washes on the conrod bolts, but my friend did most of the work. I hope he put them back in properly :0
Thanks for the pointer.
I don't recall rubber washes on the conrod bolts, but my friend did most of the work. I hope he put them back in properly :0
Thanks for the pointer.
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#10
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You need the flywheel removed, to remove the rear gudgeon pins, so the engine really does need to be out of the car to change them.
Even if it was possible to remove the pistons in the car, it would a be a waste of time and effort, as engine removal is a doddle, which makes all other work soooo much easier.
Even if it was possible to remove the pistons in the car, it would a be a waste of time and effort, as engine removal is a doddle, which makes all other work soooo much easier.
#12
I thought the "rubber" in the washers for the block bolts was sealant? When I looked closely, the hole in the rubber wasn't concentric with the washer?
Dowty seals would be an alternative.
Paul
Dowty seals would be an alternative.
Paul
#13
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They are special washers, pretty much the same as a modern sump washer. Steel, with a rubber ring set into it. Just to stop water from the cooling system seeping down the bolt holes, and I guess possibly into the sump.
Supposed to be replaced when re-building, although I havent done yet, and have had no problems. Though I did check to see that they looked ok.
Do replace all the rubber O-Rings between the block halves etc though
Supposed to be replaced when re-building, although I havent done yet, and have had no problems. Though I did check to see that they looked ok.
Do replace all the rubber O-Rings between the block halves etc though
#14
Well... stripped it down again last nite, the proper way,... turned out to be a wasted of time. The torque settings were pretty much dead on for the conrod bolts even though they were done up through the gap between the blocks using an extension and uni joint. Looks like that $800 Snap-On torque wrench my friend bought was worth it (at least for me ).
Thanks for all your help guys.
BTW My friend did get the head gasket and seals set from Subaru so all the washers, seals and gaskets were replaced. Same with the rings (though we did have to use one of the old rings when my friend snapped one :P)
Cheers,
Tony
Thanks for all your help guys.
BTW My friend did get the head gasket and seals set from Subaru so all the washers, seals and gaskets were replaced. Same with the rings (though we did have to use one of the old rings when my friend snapped one :P)
Cheers,
Tony
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block, crankshaft, disassembling, disassembly, ej20, ej20g, float, gap, piston, pistonslap, remove, removing, ring, splitting, subaru