Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Right,

Last weekend my run of bad luck started to go into overdrive...

My gearbox locked in 3rd, I suspect that a selector fork has broken.

Today I started trying to remove it, but I'm not entirely sure of the procedure, so far I have got this far (MY98 UK):

1: removed intercooler pipe work (FMIC) and downpipe

2: removed starter motor, removed 2 bolts accessible from the engine bay, removed clutch slave cylinder, unbolted central engine tie bar

3: Jacked car up and got all 4 wheels off the ground, now on axle stands

4: from underneath, removed propshaft, drained box oil which was full of aluminium fillings removed lower wishbones and lower chassis brace (Cusco mod), disconnected front drive shafts

5: Removed two nuts on bell housing either side of cross memeber

6: Supported box on trolley jack and removed the 2 box cross members (6 bolts in all)

What have I got left to do? I think that I've got all the bell housing bolts off (2 bolts - one on the starter motor), 2 nuts, have I? How do I free off the clutch lever? Any one done this and can offer advice?

scoobyboy

i thought there were 8 bell housing bolts on a 98my might be wrong though.
next to the starter is a 10 mm allen key plug, take this out and screw a bolt in to the shaft behind it and pull this will pull the shaft out and allow the clutch fork to go loose, you can then remove the gearbox catching the fork as it falls out.
i find it easier to lift the front of the engine slightly before removing so it can't get stuck on the long studs at the bottom. have you removed the gear linkage and tie bar it's a 12 mm nut for the tie bar and a 12 mm nut and bolt for the gearlinkage.
other than that sounds like you got it all free so give it a tug and see what happens.

carl&vicky

locaol scooby garage talked me through it and youve done it right although you may need quite some force to seperate the two

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you havent removed the clutch fork pivot. Beside the starter hole, you will see a bung, with a 12mm hex. Remove this and you will see an m6 hole. Insert a m6 bolt into the hole, and pull the fork pivot out. It may come out easy, or it may be tight. Once the pivot is removed, lift the fork off the release bearing.
There are 4 bellhousing bolts, 6 on autos, and later cars, and some sti's
Dont forget the speed sender wires, and the plug on top for the reverse light etc. Gear linkage etc etc

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 9/22/2002 3:26:25 AM]

Trout...

Tim,

and remember it is VERY heavy so don't do this alone!

Trout

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

(Muffled shouts from off set) Now I remember it's heavy...

I ache all over from the battle I had with removing the propshaft on my own...supporting it on my forarm while holding a spanner in the same hand and using another in my other hand, and my head to push the exhaust to one side

Thanks chaps...back to under the car I go...

ukhuskynox

Just removed the box from my legacy....don't forget the electrical connections going to the box!

R 5C0DBY

so is a a hard job? thinkin of doin mine!

ukhuskynox

Nope it's not hard just time consuming and can be a fiddle....just have to sort a new clutch & flywheel then install the P1 box & rear diff.

getting the Down pipe off the turbo was a right pig and seperating the box from the engine was a pain as it stuck on one of the locateing dowels.

A.

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Not hard, just annoying having to do it. Its not so bad when you want to do it, like in Husky's case. Can be awkward to get back in. You need to tilt the engine backwards to allow the box to go back in, as once the box is removed, the engine tends to fall forward, so the angle is all wrong for re-fitting.
I also find it easier to build up the release fork before putting the box back on, instead of trying to locate the fork afterwards. There is a sm,all ring on the release bearing, which when prised apart gently with a screwdriver will releas the release bearing from the cover. Build up the pivot, release bearing and fork, back onto the box, and once the box is back on the engine, simply push the fork rearward ( pushing the release bearing into the pressure plate ) and thats it all locked together again.

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Well the box is out...forgot one earth wire...which I noticed as I was using the engine hoist to support the front of the box with my dad underneath armed with a trolley jack...

If I had got the car about 6 inched higher off the ground this would have been an easier job, but then again I wouldn't have been able to reach in and out of the engine bay so easily!

The blanking plug for the clutch fork pivot pin was a 10mm hex, and yes it was an M6 thread on the bolt

Haven't had time to crak the box open, mainly aluminium in the oil, very finely ground...I might be lucky...not sure but I think ther is a little bit of oil in the clutch housing, so I'm also going to have a peak at the crank oil seal while the box is off...hope it isn't, the clutch has only been in for 3000 miles

Cheers for the help chaps

scoobyboy

must admit never seen 6 bell housing bolts on a scoob i thought they went from 4 to 8

ukhuskynox

Once the car is jacked up, stand on a old Grolsch crate

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Nah...I think I'll spend 400 quid on a used 4 post ramp and put that in at my folks, there's enough room, and we'll gain another parking spot

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Well the gearbox is now stripped...and this is what I found:



Apparently this is a little unusual...normally it's the selector fork that brakes, not the selector rod although personally I think that the rod is just as likely to brake looking at how it is made. From the way it has broken I suspect that it had a crack which propogated into the shear...

The selector fork it'self will also need replacing as it has worn a bit from when I had started to change gear...

Still I'm learning a lot



[Edited by Tim W - 9/29/2002 7:20:25 PM]