Dario

Hi,

My MY01 (fully scoobsport decat + dawes) has just started to hesitate at the weekend - it's running 16.psi - when it gets to 3500rpm it hestitaes for a bit (still showing maximum boost though) and when it gets to 4000rpm - pulls as normal - any ideas why - it's driving me crazy.

Regards

Lee

fivepint

hmm sounds like its inherited the dreaded hesitation, some have suggested, cleaning the Idle sensor, located on the inlet manifold, a quik squirt of carb cleaner while keeping the revs up?!?

Cheers

Dario

Hi Fivepint,

Where is this sensor exactly? =is it easy to get to?

Regards

Lee

fivepint

Yup on the MY00 its on top of the inletmenifold near the throttle body/intercooler, not too sure about the bug eye, but would have to be beside the throttle body, it controls idle by letting air in (not vey techy ) most likel a small diameter rubber hose feeding into it, remove this keep the revs up because the car may stall, and give a couple of squirts of carb cleaner,

cheers

do a search for hesitation there is a thread with more info

Pete Croney

Guys the idle speed control clean trick only affects pre 99 cars.

I would suggest cleaning the MAF with a decent areosol brake cleaner. This has worked on 2 01 cars that I know of. Both were standard cars with std air filters, so I don't know how the MAF got messy, unless it was recirc'd oil vapour.

Dario

Hi Pete,

I'm a complete novice with cars - how do I clean the MAF? - a couple of people have commented on this hesitation problem - maybe because of cold weather/dampness - it's only since the weather has taken a turn for the worse that's it's had the hesitation problem (maybe it's just coincidence)

How much would a decrease in temp from 20c to 13c increase the boost?

Regards

Lee

BugEyed

Lee

Your problem could be the MAF (as suggested by Pete), but it might be boost related. Whilst the MY01+ doesn't have the fuel-cut "feature" of the classic shape, it does have some fairly hefty over-fueling / ignition-retard built into the ECU map when you go over about 16 psi of boost. The current cool / damp weather will significantly improve the efficiency of your turbo and hence you will run higher boost for a given setting on your Dawes. The fact that the problem is most noticable at the point of max boost points to this being the problem as I'd have thought MAF problems would be throughout the range. Try backing the boost down slightly and see if this cures it.

Duncan

PS Cleaning the MAF is easy - just uncouple it from the ducts between the airfilter and the turbo inlet, unclip the wiring connecter, and just squirt with cleaner. Don't attempt to clean mechanically (ie wipe it) as you can damage it. As all good manuals say, assembly is the reverse procedure.

Nathan L

Dario

Sorry for hijacking slightly but.....

B.E YHM mate.

Nathan..

MurrayZA

>>Whilst the MY01+ doesn't have the fuel-cut "feature" of the >>classic shape, it does have some fairly hefty over-fueling / >>ignition-retard built into the ECU map when you go over about 16 >>psi of boost.

I thought the MY01 had a fuel cut too. Please can someone explain what happens in place of fuel cut. How much retard ? How much overfuelling ? Reason why I ask is I had my car on a RR on Satuday, ran an ambitious 1.2 bar boost and the car run fine till 5750, then the graph shows a loss of about 10kw atw and when the operator lifted off, a good puff of smoke - NF octane booster residue in color - so I'm assuming it was unburnt, vaporised fuel ?
The car's power started to climb again after the 10kw loss. (10 kw loss over about 350rpm, then gained again).

Car has been running fine since then since I dropped the boost back down to 1.05 bar.

BugEyed

Murray

I believe that the MY01 does have a fuel cut, but that it is set very high. However, well before the fuel cut is reached the ignition retards significantly and the map is very rich. However, i don't have exact figures. Perhaps John Banks or Steve Done might wish to comment?

Duncan

MurrayZA

I actually just want to know how hard it is to break an engine on the std/PPP ECU - no Dawes etc - boost controlled using the restrictor. My 01 runs a PPP kit with a VF23 and full decat. We are at altitude (6000ft) and only have 93 octane fuel - I add
1/3 bottle NF race (black) - so its probably around 96 octane.
My car runs 15.5 psi held and may touch on 16psi on a long run
in the higher gears. It seems to run smooth (apart from a good
few scoops of lag). I was just wondering - in this sort of set up,
if the engine detects knock / runs lean - will the ECU save it
from going bang / fuel more ? What happens ?

MurrayZA

Oh... and how may degrees retard will the 01 run ? Mine currently maxes at 5 degrees retard, some say the ECU will go as high as 12, others say 20. Also - what happenens when the ECU has retarded the
max and needs to retard more ? Boost cut ? Fuel Cut ?