Who knows stuff about diffs ?
#1
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Pulled out of a left hand turn t-junction the other day. Road was dry. 5,500 rpm, dumped clutch and spun the rears. Should the fronts have spun too ? (chelle, did the fronts spin ?)
Do the front and rear diffs work independantly. ie. if fronts spin, is torque moved to the rear and vice versa ?
Scooby has LSD right ? How does this work ? Is it if left rear spins then diff locks and transfer rest of torque to right rear ?
As you can see i don't really know that much about diffs, so any extra info would be greatly appreciated !
Oh, and scooby is an MY00 uk turbo with 33k on the clock.
Reguards
Jonathan
Do the front and rear diffs work independantly. ie. if fronts spin, is torque moved to the rear and vice versa ?
Scooby has LSD right ? How does this work ? Is it if left rear spins then diff locks and transfer rest of torque to right rear ?
As you can see i don't really know that much about diffs, so any extra info would be greatly appreciated !
Oh, and scooby is an MY00 uk turbo with 33k on the clock.
Reguards
Jonathan
#2
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A front diff transfers torque between the right and left front wheels.
A rear diff transfers torque between the left and right rear wheels.
A center diff transfers torque between the front and rear.
There are different types of diffs, torsens (old stuff, no good, slow) and modern diff with plates in them (faster and better).
Then you get differences between 1 way, 1.5 way and 2 way diffs. 1 way will only work during acceleration, 2 way will work during acceleration and deceleration, 1.5 way will work a little under deceleration but normally under acceleration.
Some center diffs can be adjusted to get more front wheel or rear wheel bias (ie. to get under or oversteer). Most cant.
You need to check what you have and unless you have Cusco 2 ways in the front and rear and an adjustable center diff, it's no good
A rear diff transfers torque between the left and right rear wheels.
A center diff transfers torque between the front and rear.
There are different types of diffs, torsens (old stuff, no good, slow) and modern diff with plates in them (faster and better).
Then you get differences between 1 way, 1.5 way and 2 way diffs. 1 way will only work during acceleration, 2 way will work during acceleration and deceleration, 1.5 way will work a little under deceleration but normally under acceleration.
Some center diffs can be adjusted to get more front wheel or rear wheel bias (ie. to get under or oversteer). Most cant.
You need to check what you have and unless you have Cusco 2 ways in the front and rear and an adjustable center diff, it's no good
#3
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Front diff on most Scoobs is open.
Claudius - why is torsen slow? I thought this was a mechanical system - if so, it's got to be quicker than waiting for a clutched type diff to have sufficient speed difference to lock.
I have a Quaife ATB in the front of my my00 - it acts very quickly, just wish I'd upgraded centre to a 20kg/cm version while the box was out.
As for the rear wheels spinning - weight transfer also has a large effect on which wheels lose grip first. While accelerating gives the rear more grip, turning 90 degrees will still break traction at rear first.
Richard
Claudius - why is torsen slow? I thought this was a mechanical system - if so, it's got to be quicker than waiting for a clutched type diff to have sufficient speed difference to lock.
I have a Quaife ATB in the front of my my00 - it acts very quickly, just wish I'd upgraded centre to a 20kg/cm version while the box was out.
As for the rear wheels spinning - weight transfer also has a large effect on which wheels lose grip first. While accelerating gives the rear more grip, turning 90 degrees will still break traction at rear first.
Richard
#5
Claudius,
Would you mind explaining why Torsen style mechanical diffs might be "No Good" and "Slow"? I look forward to your enlightening technical reply.
Moray
PS: Most of the scooby owners here will be using there cars primarily as road cars, a fact that might affect your argument.
PPS: I would be quite suprised if I found that the "old style" torsen design was not developed more recently than the "modern" clutch style lsd unit... I will have a look into the history of such designs some time when I get a moment.
[Edited by MorayMackenzie - 8/19/2002 5:49:11 PM]
Would you mind explaining why Torsen style mechanical diffs might be "No Good" and "Slow"? I look forward to your enlightening technical reply.
Moray
PS: Most of the scooby owners here will be using there cars primarily as road cars, a fact that might affect your argument.
PPS: I would be quite suprised if I found that the "old style" torsen design was not developed more recently than the "modern" clutch style lsd unit... I will have a look into the history of such designs some time when I get a moment.
[Edited by MorayMackenzie - 8/19/2002 5:49:11 PM]
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Adam,
Since paying the damned dealer 4.5 hours labour to do the job for me, and have Moray carp on about how he could do it (or knew someone who could) in 5 minutes, you're right - you're info. is of no use to me whatsoever
While not 20 minutes, I watched 2 friends replace a lunched gearbox in 90 minutes flat. I wont be going to the dealer when my clutch needs replacing, *and* I fit the uprated centre!
Richard
Since paying the damned dealer 4.5 hours labour to do the job for me, and have Moray carp on about how he could do it (or knew someone who could) in 5 minutes, you're right - you're info. is of no use to me whatsoever
While not 20 minutes, I watched 2 friends replace a lunched gearbox in 90 minutes flat. I wont be going to the dealer when my clutch needs replacing, *and* I fit the uprated centre!
Richard
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