sgking

2002 bugeye 5 speed


for some time the gearbox has been sounding very rough, but goes away when clutch pressed in. There is no performance loss at all.


then, under load it has been sounding like birds nesting in the engine bay! little squarks and chirps!


now those chirps have gone away but 4th gear pops out all on its own unless you hold it in.


Think its on borrowed time but it has been thrashed for many years. what do you reckon?


Thanks

sssssteeeee

you could try a thicker gear oil from Castrol or as performance..... but by the sounds of it , id replace that, don't go boosting the car or box might lock up etc. sympathetic driving is needed, ive tried ways to get around my 3rd gear syncro problem but no matter rev speed or different clutch timing it still happens. dam ! it spoils the drive.

sgking

thanks for your reply, i think its a bit more of a prob than just the oil sadly.

if i can find a replacement box id like to fit one.

are they different from model to model e.g this car is a non-turbo, so does it have to be a non-turbo box to fit etc etc?

sgking

ok well the gearbox is still going but only just! now its making quite a lot of chatter and 4th gear doesnt work, it gets stuck in 1st sometimes etc etc on its last legs basically!

its done 150k.

im weighing up my options...i can probably remove it myself (if i have a how-to) and could take it to be refurbed - any idea on cost?

or I can buy a new one. the code is 4a-ty754vsbaa, does this mean I must buy another with that exact code or do other ones work?

thanks

sssssteeeee

I think I would look at an sti up grade u get an extra gear , has own oil pump , stronger box , and dccd, by time u had the 5 speed done I bet its coming out near 1000 pounds. sti box fitted 1600. ish give or take a drive shaft.

sgking

thanks for your reply but its a 150k bugeye sport, im thinking 400 max or the cars life will have to be cut short sadly.

ideal situation - somebody knowlegeable on here explans to me what gearboxes will fit mine and i find one for 200quid, fit it myself with new clutch and it works for another 30k...

sgking

OK well it gave up today, gearbox just doesnt work. Havnt investigeted yet, just brought it home safe.

from what i understand this is a how-to :

First jack up the car, drain all of the oil out of the front diff and gearbox. There is a large sump plug underneath the front diff and a smaller plug along the bottom of the gearbox, looks like a small sump.

•Remove the top mount intercooler.
•Disconnect the battery.
•Remove starter motor.
•Remove clutch cylinder.

On the right hand side of the gearbox below where the clutch cylinder was, there should be a plastic/rubber cap, which you can’t really see. If it’s there, pop it off and now use, I think, a M6 or M8 bolt. In the hole that the cap was covering is a large pin with a threaded hole in the middle of it. Screw either the M6/M8 into this hole and pull the pin out.

There is a bit of metal that sticks out of the top of the gearbox that the clutch cylinder was touching, it has a square rubber gator round it. Pull this up as far as you can, this is the clutch fork and is dis-engaging from the clutch release bearing.

Remove the top dog bone engine mount and disconnect any electrical plugs that go down to the gear box, e.g DCCD.

Remove the exhaust heat shield (quite a few bolts) and remove the exhaust from turbo back.

Now remove the prop shaft, two bolts on the centre bearing and four that bolts the prop to the rear diff. The prop should now slide off the splines at the back of the gearbox. Careful, as there might be a trickle of oil come out.

Disconnect the gear linkage –two bolts- from the gearbox.

You now need to remove your front drive shafts, there is a roll pin that holds the inner CV joint to the stub shafts on the front diff. Rotate shaft round until you can get at these roll pins and knock them out.

Your drive shaft should now slide off the stub shaft. Move the shafts back out of the way.

Remove the gearbox cross member, approx. 6 bolts.

Now, with a trolley jack and a lump of wood, jack up the front of the engine on the crank pulley as far as you can so the whole engine and gearbox tilts back. This makes it easier for removing and re fitting of the gearbox.

Remove the remaining bolts around the outside of the bell housing around the gearbox.

Your gearbox should now be ready to come out. Please be aware it’s very heavy and will need three/four people to lift it if you’re doing this with the car on axle stands. Granted classic boxes are a little lighter than newage boxes.
You may need to jiggle the box a fair bit for it to slide out.

You’ll now see your clutch and flywheel. Place a large allen key socket or normal allen key between the splines of your flywheel and the top bolt hole for your starter motor so it jams the flywheel and stops it from turning.

Now remove the bolts for the clutch, which will then mean you can see the bolts for the flywheel.

Refit in reverse order of removal, remembering to torque all flywheel and clutch bolts.

Remember to use a clutch alignment tool when refitting the clutch.

Fit old or new clutch release bearing onto input shaft of gearbox and locate the legs of your clutch fork into the lugs of your release bearing. Put plenty of copper grease on these.

Refit large pin into the hole on the side of the bell housing through the hole in your clutch fork and remove the bolt. Again plenty of greece on the pin.

You should now be able to push the top of your clutch fork, which your clutch cylinder pushes against, to slide the release bearing backwards and forwards.

It is best to have someone to lean over the top of the engine to help guide the gearbox back home. Again, you may need to jiggle a bit.

Refitting is now reverse of removal. Lower the jack once the gearbox is bolted to the engine and fit cross member.

With your gearbox in place and bolted up tight, push the top of the clutch fork back towards the bulkhead of the car until you hear a click sound. This means the release bearing is now located onto the clutch.

Leave the fitting of the top-mount intercooler until last and once the car is on level ground, fill the gearbox and front diff with gear oil through the dipstick tube, remembering to fit the sump plugs first.

Your front diff and gearbox will fill at the same time.

Thats really all there is to it.

sgking

ok well i checked clutch operates the relese fork, and it does. got car up on stands and removed exhast, cat, manifolds. found a big 21mm nut on the bottom of trans, so removed it and drained a horrible stinking black oil out. the drain plug had thick grey sludge on it? its magnetic yes? what is this stuff?

put the oil through a strainer to look for metal but not really anything. quite a few frgments of hard stuff that broke apart between the fingers? not sure what that was?

am i supposed to drain a second plug now, yes? the diff?
thanks

ps what is the torqe specs for drain plug? what oil do i need to put back in?

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Your box is toast bud

get a like for like and replace.

Oil should not be brunt smelling and the sludge on the drain plug is all the bits that have failed mushed together . if you split the box you would find a few pieces in there im sure

i replaced my box on the driveway, it can be done, took me chilling, 4 to 5 weekends, i had a few issues along the way.........

sgking

ye ill be doing it chilling too...no mad rush. can you help me along the way you sound like the person i was hoping would turn up on this thread!

so ive had a look under the tran for another drain plug but cant find one? i have only drained from the 21mm so far.

starters basically off. now for the slave cylinder. is that just the 2 bolts on top and off it comes?

thanks

sgking

got the undershield off too. cracked the slave bolts and the upper 'bone' shaped engine mount too. its all been 12mm and 14mm bolts so far.

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Yeah , only 1 drain plug on the gearbox

Slave cylinder is the 2 bolts you mention , don't forget to remove the clutch fork pin , looking at the gearbox from under the bonnet , to the right of the slave cylinder look for a big Allen head bolt on side of box , undo this and use an M8 bolt to insert into the now hole , hen pull on the M8 bolt to pull pin out . Take a look on you tube for clarification bud .

Everything else is as you see it , unbolt and it all comes apart

sgking

ok wll i did a bit more today, removing connectors, earth terminal airbox mounting bracket tubulat thingys. got the driveshaft pins out by finding a srewdriver with similar diameter and grinding it into a cylinder punch which worked a treat.

cracked off the main gearbox mounting bolts so tehy are easy upon removal.

however, the propshaft sheld thingy at the back (6 bolts) is seized silly and i had to give up. i have soaked the bolts, hopfully they will be more fee tomorrow. might have to get some heat on there, but depends where tank is.

now, back to the clutch fork...i dont have this access hole? does my 2002 gearbox not require this step???

here is a pic of a 2002 with same part no as mine...

Don Clark

These links might be useful............

http://subaru-car.ru/imp1/imp01_trans_4.pdf

http://subaru-car.ru/imp1/imp01_trans_5.pdf

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

It's strange how the gearbox you show doesn't have the hex bolt tho , it has a normal bolt head , usually it's a hex bolt/cap

my94wrx

iTrader: (4)

the gearbox pictured is i believe a hawkeye gearbox which uses a push clutch and different flywheel and hydraulic set set up, hence the lack of hole for drawing out the clutch fork pivot pin.

Don Clark

On the money

sgking

thanks for the replies guys. its a 2002 bugeye though? weve had it for 10 years, and bought it at 50k. are you sure it has a hawkeye gearbox?

i compared the gearbox the pic i posted on here and it is indeed the same, and i know which bolt you are talking about. so do i leave that bolt in, or remove it?

also managed to get the 6 bolts free that were seized (the shield over the prop-shaft) and i want replacement bolts. i know they are m10 but the thread pitch is not normal? anyone know what the pitch is?

thanks.

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

Metric fine 1.5?

sgking

ok i had a stroke of genius and compared the thread pitch to my tap & die set it it looks like 1.25mm thread. We will see as i have bought replacements.

propshaft off, linkages disconnected just need to pop the driveshafts out the side of teh box with a scissor jack and then i can support the trans with my transmission jack and then undo bolts and lower to the ground. thats the plan anyway.

oh i need some wood to stop the engine tilting forward too.

This is the wrietup I am using:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128...ictorial.html?

seems i dont need to disconenct the clutch fork pin???

sgking

well i got the box off. i didnt need to do nything with the clutch fork pin i dont think. well i didnt do anything anyway and it came apart after a little levering with a crowbar. the clutch fork just sort of fell off with the release bearing (which is rough sounding but still turning)

the job is easy apart from actually dealing with the box, its very big and heavy, quite a pain on your own. i will defo need help to refit it.

ok well the clutch fork had a clip on one side and was bodged with wire on the other? ill have to get a pic up.

there was couple of shards of shiny metal bits in the bellhousing too, again will take pic tomorrow. cant wait to get clutch off see if it has been damaged.

so how do i take gearbox apart to check for damage?

Don Clark

Try downloading the two links I posted in post 14

sgking

raining here so havnt been out the house yet.

so where do i get the fork/bearing clip from? noone seems to sell them? no subaru garages here either.

also what clutch kit do you reccommend? cheap being the main factor. the one that is on there at the moment is an ICP £100 cheap kit, which lasted 3 years i guess. i could fit another i suppose.

sgking

well turns out it was an exedy clutch kit, still got the receipt, damn cheap fair play to ICP, just a shame it let go big style.

The inner section of the clutch disc had completley ripped apart from the friction material, and thats what all the shards of metal were. The pressure plate looks like a rusty brake disc too.

Flywheel is toast heat cracks etc, lucky i have an already skimmed spare one ready to go.

Off to glastonbury tomorrow so be a week before I can do anything else etc.

need to order clutch kit, flywheel dowels, clutch fork/bearing clip etc

Oh and at the begginning of this thread I thought it was the gearbox didnt i. well now it turns out to be the clutch that let go, but I was pretty sure it was the gearbox that was making the noise.

If the gearbox was 'broken' could this destroy the clutch??

If i remember when car was at idle, everything sounded rough, put clutch in and sounded sweet.

oh and it kept popping out of 4th gear all the time, then hard to get into the other gears. Could a clutch disc on the way out do this? Or is the box definatley toast too...?

remember the gearbox oil was thick and black when i drained it!

Thanks all. Any expertise appreciated.

sgking

Well a late update to this incase it helps anyone...

I fitted a s/h gearbox for £150ish, needed a new speed sensor £80. Fitted it all myself with new clutch and skimmed flywheel, was quite easy to do on the drive. There are great guides online with step by step pictures, needed a mate to help lift the box onto my trans jack and line it up but was easy really.

Kaeo

iTrader: (1)

Awesome mate, good job. Always feels good to accomplish something big by yourself.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

When I read the first bit I was going to say release bearing or thrust bearing going / gone... but then realised the date, carried on reading and saw you ended up changing the box... was it actually the gearbox that was goosed or did you just change it to be on the safe side and because you found a cheap replacement?

My WRX box made funny noises for about 30k but never let go... would also go away when clutch pressed... the reason I never did anything about it was because I always thought it was just a noisy thrust bearing... had one go on my Isuzu Trooper and just replaced the clutch and bearings and it was fine after that... now that was a heavy gearbox... best part of 100kg... Subaru 5 speed is about 50kg which isn't much fun on your back but easy to carry about once out from under the car.

Glad you got it sorted though, easy enough job, just a pain going in and out under the car 300 times.

sgking

thanks Kaeo

Ditchmeister - Ye the car just lost all ability to change gears all of a sudden. Recovered it and got it home. I knew the gearbox was going as it kept popping out of 4th, so decided to simply 'have a look' with a view to changing the box on the cheap.

Turns out the clutch centre had sheared from the friction material and the flywheel was glazed and scorched. The gearbox oil was thick black which indicated it had overheated the oil apparently.

Basically fitted S/H gearbox from 100K'er. Blueprint clutch kit plus a freshly skimmed flywheel that i had in storage. So far so good. Clutch job in impreza is a dream compared to other cars eg Mondeo I'm doing at the moment which requires subframe off, drop engine down etc