salsa-king

how do they differ?

is this a good one to start with?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLATINUM-D...item1e8344ad1f

or am i better spending a bit more on one like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEGUIARS-P...item27c01a83c7


any advice much needed

as would like a polisher for Christmas.. not sure what to go for.

Phil

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Ideally you'd want something like this. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish.../prod_720.html
But polishing isn't the only thing you need to look at. You also need to look at your wash technique, your prep, and what products your using. Your best bet is to go and have a browse on detailing world and soak up as much info as you can. But be warned, it's far from a cheap hobby!

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

1st one is ****e,
2nd is a re branded Kestral, so Id go Kestral D/A on Subaru paint, and find a Pad like a Hex logic.

lordharding

iTrader: (1)

Das 6 every time
There was a Couple of dealers doing specials at the moment on DW

T25 DOC

Think Phil is all too aware of DW...(",).... Chap if you want to try out a rotary, DA or a rupes Bigfoot your welcome to come try mine out...I went straight to the rotary many moons ago having had experience of machine polishing in the past but that was me. A DA will be better for less risk in that you can achieve some great results.......but.....there are many times when a DA just simply doesn't have the cutting power needed that a rotary does. It is however very easy to cut through/burn with a rotary, so it's all about ability...my suggestion go for the DA, should get great results with less risk, then look at a rotary later....if you can afford it however....buy the Bigfoot!!! I did an E55 at the weekend, in for a full paint correction and I was amazed at the speed of cut and coverage-not quite the 40% reduction in time as been stated but defo some 25% quicker and at 30+ hrs on a car that's some good going...(",)

salsa-king

who's gotthe best offers on DW at the mo?


bigfoot is great but don't want to spend that money tbh.

I wanna try out on the punto and the focus before i move to the scoob. paint work on that does seem thin.. already gone through it with a bit of t cut on a clothe

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't want to touch that with any machine until someone with a pdg had looked at it for me! There's so many deals on dw at the moment being Christmas, I'm not sure who's the best on da's. There's always 1 or 2 knocking around in the personal sales section too.

salsa-king

not wanting to sound too thick, but do you use a special liquid wax with e DA.. or can I still use my AngleWax DRIFT wax... as that's a bugger to hand apply and buff off.

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

You use whatever make of compounds you like tbh.

The wax you mention above is to protect the freshly machine polished paint and not really to be used via DA (Although you could use a very soft finishing pad to apply if if you really wanted)

I personally use nothing other than Menzerna. If you're looking for a great 1 stage polish (Something that will correct and still give good gloss levels) then PF2500 is a brilliant compound. A Polish/Compound is used to correct the paintwork and a wax or sealant is used to protect afterwards

If you're going down the DAS6 route then the pro version is definitely worth the extra money as the increased motor size helps it not to bog down.

Chemical Guys Hex Logic pads or Lake Country were my fav on the DAS6 Pro I used to use.

salsa-king

so this... http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish.../prod_720.html
would be good to start with.

I take it that you use the Menzerna to polish/correct the paint work.. then you'd use my DRIFT wax to get the shine back to the car. (or do you not do anything else when you've menzerna'd the car?)

moley1967

I have a Kestrel DA and have done for the past few years . My chosen correction product is now Menzerna , followed over the top with CarLack68 then Colly wax . Prep is the key though as previously said . Paint needs to feel as smooth as glass .

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

The very act of machine polishing will correct and enhance. That's what gives you the shine. That's why a two or three stage correction detail would 1. Remove scratches and swirls. 2. Remove polishing marks from the 1st stage which would be aggressive to remove the defects and 3. Enhance gloss and reflection in the paint.

You need appropriate pads and compounds for each stage.

All the wax or sealant is then doing is protecting the shine and the paint you've machine polished

There is some truth that certain LSPs will also increase the shine and reflectivity but it'd be hugely diminished if the machine work is not done correctly.

salsa-king

ok, what else will i need to buy with a DA polisher, or just use what's in the kit above, then use my angelwax 'drift' over the top?

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Got everything you need in the kit. I'd get some decent masking tape as well. Nothing worse than polish residue on the window rubbers etc.

Also some decent microfibres to remove the polish residue.

Never used your wax before personally. But if you're happy with it then use it.

I've gone over more to sealants recently. Give Sonax Brilliant Shine a look. So easy to use with stunning looks and protection.

Watch some videos on YouTube of people machine polishing. It will help to give you an idea of working times and technique required to get the best out of the kit. It's a surprisingly lengthy process.

salsa-king

I've 'LIKED' you on FB now

This is the wax I have
http://www.angelwax.co.uk/?wpsc-product=drift

They've liked you on FB too

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Cheers matey

Wax looks good. I've heard on the grapevine they "might" make of the Autofinesse boutique waxes which are considerably more

Let me know how you get on. If you was closer I'd offer to show you the ropes.

salsa-king

i found it brill....

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...hite-cars.html

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Got some Swissvax Glacier samples if u fancy trying another wax designed for white cars

salsa-king

are all D/A the same, as they all look the same just different coloured bodies etc and branded differently (DoDo, Maguire etc)


Would I be better buy 2nd hand off DW or somewhere like that if the price is right?

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Pretty much yeah. I've got a DAS6 Pro I use occasionally. I use the Bigfoot and the Flex a lot more mind.

I might be able to pass it on for the right price

Complete with backing plates and a fair few Hex Logic Pads

salsa-king

I didn't know if some had better motors etc.

what's a right price??


What else do I need?

been watching 'how to' vids on youtube

from what i can understand is
1. wash the car
2. clay it
3. use a fine compound with the DA
4. use micro fibre towel to clear away residue if any
5. use wax (applied by the DA) to apply to paint work
6. polish off either by hand polishing or the DA
7. go over the car with detail spray and polish off by hand using micro fibre cloths

am I on the right lines?

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Wheels cleaned
Prewash/Snowfoam
Rinse
2 bucket wash
Rinse
Fallout removed for tar and iron
Rinse
Clay
Rinse
Dry
Mask window rubbers door handles etc
Machine polish. Always start with the least aggressive combo first. Small areas at a time removing polish residue as you go.
Rinse (removing polishing dust)
Dry
Sealant
Wax
Dress tyres
Clean glass

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

I personally never use a machine to either apply or remove the wax. I actually enjoy this stage the most. Get some cheap foam applicators from gaybay, they're cheap enough to be disposable. Wet them slightly before applying the wax, this will help you to get a very thin and even layer

salsa-king

so wetting the pad makes it easier to apply the wax?
I found it hard to buff off using the DRIFT, thought a DA might help.


why do I see ppl taping up the windows and gaps on the cars?

and how do you polish around/under door handles and the scooby scoop... and logo lettering (subaru on the back)... by hand?

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Stops the pad catching. Whole idea with a wax is to get the thinnest coat possible. Experiment with curing times. Some waxes are literally on then straight off again. Others need longer before they haze. Zymol Glasur for example is one panel at a time, on then off, hardly any time required. Generally the longer you leave it the harder it is to get off.

Taping gaps etc......Just so they don't get compound in the gaps. I only tape up rubber trim and things that the compound will stick to and be a PITA to get off of. I always go round all panel gaps with cotton buds when finished just to make sure they're totally clear. If you're careful with the polisher then you'll be fine.

Scoop can easily be done by swapping to a 3" backing plate and 3.5" pad. As for all the difficult to reach areas, yep generally by hand. Be careful trying to get too close to lettering and sharp bits of trim as it will tear the edge of the pad up as quick as you can breath.

salsa-king

I registered on DW the other day.. still waiting for moderator activation. I can't post anything etc yet


What pads do I need to get for the scoob for compound and then you use the same pad to polish off as well as apply?


Going to start on my Punto as the paint is shocking.. it's been foam'd, clayed so is better than it was. Then I used CarKandy liguid wax to polish it.. came out ok, it's the swirls tho!!
Then I'm moving onto the wife's Focus.. then when I'm happy I know how it all works.. try the scoob.. but only with a fine compaound.. the finer the better lol as paint does seem soft.

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

I always liked Chemical Guys Hex Logic pads with the DAS6 Pro. You'll need a Orange or Green pad for the cutting stage and maybe a black for refining.

salsa-king

just rang and ordered two pads and two bottles of Menz (PF + FF) from clean your car

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Nice one