Waxing made it worse.
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Help, waxing made it worse.
I tried waxing my bonnet and have made it very dull, like a light haze has come over it. I think I used too much wax . Is this something that can be polished out by hand, or would it need a machine polish like the Macallister one I was asking about on the other thread?
Last edited by SRSport; 29 July 2010 at 02:35 AM.
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I used stuff Turtle wax. I did use too much and in the sun, not clever I know. Wiped it off and just this dullness! Ive since tried washing it then, bug cleaner, clay, AG SRP and then AG EGP.
No difference. The rest of the car is perfect, but I didnt carry on waxing after the bonnet.
No difference. The rest of the car is perfect, but I didnt carry on waxing after the bonnet.
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#9
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Ive tried striping it down with Auto Glyms version but no good.
Here are the pictures.
The roof as it should be
The bonnet, not as it should be.
You can see the hazyness and lack of clarity the bonnet has compared to the roof.
Here are the pictures.
The roof as it should be
The bonnet, not as it should be.
You can see the hazyness and lack of clarity the bonnet has compared to the roof.
#10
Scooby Regular
I've never been impressed with Turtle Wax, OK for the average car owner but anyone who really cares for their car should look for better products. It wasn't 'Colour Magic' or anything like that was it, as those products are awful in my experience. I'd suggest cutting it back using a mild polish such as AutoGlym Super Resin Polish, or even the very aggressive T-Cut. Once buffed off, apply Meguiars NXT Wax with a foam pad and buff with MF coths.
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thought it was just me up at this time, lol.
Ive tried using AG SRP with no effect. Didnt want to have to use T cut if I could help it. Is there something in between cutting ability that can be used by hand or would it be best to get it machined?
Ive tried using AG SRP with no effect. Didnt want to have to use T cut if I could help it. Is there something in between cutting ability that can be used by hand or would it be best to get it machined?
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I've had this with some waxes.
You are quite right it probably is wax residue. The removal cloth has clogged up so it just smears it rather than removes it. Silicone based waxes are a nighmare for this. Either that or the car has a build up of environmental fall-out (tree sap etc) which the wax is just smearing about.
(Tip; if the surface is not as smooth as glass before waxing..do not wax...its dirty and contaminated)
How to remove? Trial and Error I;m afraid. Polish with a second clean cloth (terry cloth, 100% cotton T-shirt, with no stitching or microfibre), then a third.
Failing that (which after this long it probably will). Wash it, strong concentration of car shampoo (say, three or four caps in to a small bowl of water). Rinse, leather dry,
Then use a paint cleaner or Clay-bar (or use the clay bar with the car shampoo as a lubricant when washing it).
Alternatives are solvent glue and tar remover (not the creamy liquid). Solvent Panel wipe. Or as a last resort Cellulose thinners ( WARNING - do not use the celly thinners on a car thats been painted or touched in with cellulose paint - i.e aerosol, chips away or a back street bodyshop, also keep well away from plastic trim).
Machine polishing a car is just as agressive as T-cut is, so I'm not sure what you are trying to gain, barring T-cut being a bitch to use.
IIRC Turtle wax does need alot of elbow grease and if the paint is not properly cleaned before hand it just smears.
Hope that helps.
You are quite right it probably is wax residue. The removal cloth has clogged up so it just smears it rather than removes it. Silicone based waxes are a nighmare for this. Either that or the car has a build up of environmental fall-out (tree sap etc) which the wax is just smearing about.
(Tip; if the surface is not as smooth as glass before waxing..do not wax...its dirty and contaminated)
How to remove? Trial and Error I;m afraid. Polish with a second clean cloth (terry cloth, 100% cotton T-shirt, with no stitching or microfibre), then a third.
Failing that (which after this long it probably will). Wash it, strong concentration of car shampoo (say, three or four caps in to a small bowl of water). Rinse, leather dry,
Then use a paint cleaner or Clay-bar (or use the clay bar with the car shampoo as a lubricant when washing it).
Alternatives are solvent glue and tar remover (not the creamy liquid). Solvent Panel wipe. Or as a last resort Cellulose thinners ( WARNING - do not use the celly thinners on a car thats been painted or touched in with cellulose paint - i.e aerosol, chips away or a back street bodyshop, also keep well away from plastic trim).
Machine polishing a car is just as agressive as T-cut is, so I'm not sure what you are trying to gain, barring T-cut being a bitch to use.
IIRC Turtle wax does need alot of elbow grease and if the paint is not properly cleaned before hand it just smears.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by ALi-B; 22 August 2010 at 01:08 PM.
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Nice post, thanks. It has been like this for a year now. I have used a clay bar. It has been washed countless times with strong detergent, washing up liquid and Auto Glym Tar remover and it is still persisting.
Recently there has been a slight change where small areas are appearing where it stops being hazy, about the size of a watch face.
Recently there has been a slight change where small areas are appearing where it stops being hazy, about the size of a watch face.
Last edited by SRSport; 22 August 2010 at 06:34 PM.
#15
Scooby Regular
I think after a year it's time to pay someone for a professional polishing job doing Search for 'detailers' in your area, or ask on http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php for recommendations.
#16
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I may well end up doing that but as I havent tried using anything more aggressive than a clay bar and AG SRP I wanted to see whether people had any suggestions before splashing out on a pro. Looked on Auto Glym website at the Paint Renovator which I might try first. Anyone used it.
Im not loyal to Auto Glym, just havent needed to know about alternatives, plus they're readily available from Halfords and the like.
Im not loyal to Auto Glym, just havent needed to know about alternatives, plus they're readily available from Halfords and the like.
#18
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (41)
You're pi55ing in the wind tbh, go see a professional detailer, paint reading clearcoat etc...10 minutes with a detailer will save you money in the year you've been hacking at it! FWIW strong detergent can do damage to the clearcoat too, and I am not even going to start with the washing up liquid !
#19
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
No.
Whoops, I thought all they did was strip the LSP.
Is using Tar remover and clay bar twice/three times a year considered hacking at it? Granted using washing up liquid may not have been the best idea. (only used it for the bonnet, Zymol used everywhere else)
Is using Tar remover and clay bar twice/three times a year considered hacking at it? Granted using washing up liquid may not have been the best idea. (only used it for the bonnet, Zymol used everywhere else)
#20
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
My bonnet last week.............................................. ..................................My bonnet at 8pm tonight (although my camera doesnt do it justice)
Last edited by SRSport; 24 August 2010 at 08:23 PM.
#22
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I used AG Paint Renovator using a soft fast action by hand until the gritty texture went smooth. I checked the surface often and then followed it up with SRP worked hard.
The AG PR worked well but the surface wasnt perfect, I think it was too coarse, SRP finished it off nicely. It was quite dark when I took the photo, the camera made it seem lighter so not the best pic but I was so pleased that I just wanted to post it.
The AG PR worked well but the surface wasnt perfect, I think it was too coarse, SRP finished it off nicely. It was quite dark when I took the photo, the camera made it seem lighter so not the best pic but I was so pleased that I just wanted to post it.
#23
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Glad you got it sorted
If you used super resin polish, I would reccomend using a sealer on top of it (AG extra gloss protection, for example). Because SRP is mainly a filler polish (i.e fills the micro-scratches with resin), it will wash off in a few weeks, especially if the car is not garaged (unless SRP is used regularly).
But only do it after your completely happy with the overall finish (otherwise you'll just waste your time/money).
If you used super resin polish, I would reccomend using a sealer on top of it (AG extra gloss protection, for example). Because SRP is mainly a filler polish (i.e fills the micro-scratches with resin), it will wash off in a few weeks, especially if the car is not garaged (unless SRP is used regularly).
But only do it after your completely happy with the overall finish (otherwise you'll just waste your time/money).
Last edited by ALi-B; 25 August 2010 at 11:59 AM.
#24
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Have just finished with the EGP so all done now. Tried to get better pics up but they seem to look the same as the other one.
Im very pleased and relieved that its turned so well, and want to say thanks to everyone one this thread who has offered their help and experience.
Im very pleased and relieved that its turned so well, and want to say thanks to everyone one this thread who has offered their help and experience.
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