mit

iTrader: (10)

Hi all,just wondering if anyone can help me.
I today bought a facelift alloy bonnet,in origonal white,that had a dull finish. It just looked like it hasn't been polished in a while,yet i can't get it to come up shiny.
Any ideas why,anh how to cure this? I didn't want to spray it,the whole reason for buying a white one!

Thanks,Mit

sparkytrix

pics...

mit

iTrader: (10)

Hi, hears one pic,not that great but it's under rubbish lighting,click to se it better:

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

Have you clay'd it to remove contaminants? I had a similar problem a few years ago with a white Nissan. Claybar sorted it. Good luck. Bob

mit

iTrader: (10)

Hi, no never clay'd the car at all,something i keep meaning to do. Does it really make a difference?

adam6900

iTrader: (4)

No Clay wont make it shine........it only takes stuff stuck on the surface of the paint off, TBH unless you have had a full paint correcton a clay bar is a total waste of time on just about anything

Get some G3 and G10 compound, followed by a coat of polish If its going to shine that will do it, If not it needs painting

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

don’t agree with that at all. All those bonded on contaminants are always going to reduce the shine it also ready’s the paint to be polished. give rich at PB a ring he would give you great advice on what products would works best

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

Are you doing it by hand ???

mit

iTrader: (10)

I started by hand,then used an electric polisher. I must admit im only using t-cut polish. It is slowly coming up,but very slowly! Theres not really much paint on the cloth,much less than when i did the rest of the car. I think it's time to get some decent car care products!

adam6900

iTrader: (4)

LOL got to love Wana be Detailers....

So what part of a Abrasive cuting compound like G3 or G10 does not remove "bonded on contaminats"? And since when does a Clay Bar (made for removing bonded on contaminats) Remove dull and oxidised paint Must be magic Clay around your way! You can clearly see in the picture its Badly Faded Paint (or poor quality laqure) that needs a Cut and polish


****T Cut Is ****e**** Dont use it! if you have to go for harry Halfords Products Auto Glym Paint Renovator is much much better followed by a coat of Polish


**** Edit 2**** T cut will never leave it shiny you always have to polish it after to get the shine, Cuting compounds do just what they say and remove a fina layer of laqure / paint and need to be waxed after, so if you did not do that give it a go!

scoobyschef

iTrader: (6)

from what i have seen in the past you will never match up two white colours . get it sprayed and then you will be happy

jim

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

well if your a Wana be Idiot then congratulations you have made the cut.

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

That is one of the most stupid comments I have read on Scooby net for some time. If you think you can keep using Abrasive cutting compound instead of a clay bar then you are a fool. I don’t pretend to be some expert on the matter are you some kind of secret pro ???

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

don't agree with the first comment. a decent aggressive claybar will help oxidization, not cure it completely but will leave the surface prepped for the next polishing stage. there's not a lot point to paint correction if you're going to try and hammer through the bonded on contaminents with heavy compounds. Said contaminents, dependent on what they are of course, will get stuck in the pad and can cause further damage to the paint you're trying to perfect. Can even leave it worse than when you started.

however i agree t cut is $hite and i only find it's only good for filling the bin up when it's empty. nope t cut won't leave it shiny as you say just leaves a shed load of marring that needs polishing out.

g3 and g10 are not great for the detailer at home. fine for body shops that just need to get the job done. but 9 times out of 10 i'd say that the paint still needs perfecting once it's back.

for the OP my response is as follows.

looking at the pic i'd say the following needs to be carried out (as a start to finish)

Clean process:

rinse the pannel down
wash with 2 bucket method,
dry,
clay,
rinse,
wash with 2 bucket method,
dry,
inspect and take thickness reading all over the pannel,
depending on readings i'd probably wet sand the whole pannel and then polish,

polishing process:

starting with a finishing pad and finishing polish try a section to see the effect that it's having,
start on a fairly low speed to spread the product over the panel,
then moving up the speeds work until the product has gone clear,
wipe off and inspect the panel,
if working well carry on over the whole pannel,
if not enough cut move up to a heavier cut pad and stay with the same polish,
start on a fairly low speed to spread the product over the panel,
then moving up the speeds work until the product has gone clear,
wipe off and inspect the panel,
again if working well carry on over the whole pannel,
if not enough cut, move up to a cutting polish, ie menzerna intensive polish. this is probably going to be what is needed. (if working by hand then use the white side of the german applicator pad and intensive polish straight away. as per pb, this is one of the very few combos that works well on suabru paint when working by hand).
start on a fairly low speed to spread the product over the panel,
then moving up the speeds work until the product has gone clear,
wipe off and inspect the panel,
at this stage you should start to see great results. if not inspect paint thickness and keep going,

once happy with this stage the next stage would be to start finishing down,

using the finishing polish (menzena final finish) and a finishing pad
start on a fairly low speed to spread the product over the panel,
then moving up the speeds work until the product has gone clear,
wipe off and inspect the panel,
again keep inspecting thickness and carry on till your happy providing you have the paint to play with.

Protection:

I'd start by sealing the paint up with something like poorboys ex-p,
then a nice layer of werkstatt for white or dodo light fantasic / diamond white.

build the layers up so you shouldn't have the problem in future providing you keep it well looked after.

obviously this is taking it to the max. if you working by hand it'll have a lot less steps and you probably won't have access to a ptg. it may be worth giving a detailer in your area a shout and asking them to bring the shine back to it. could even treat your car to a full detail. depending on who you use it won't cost you much more tha a respray would do if you don't have any luck yourself.

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

this is a good point. white is one of the hardest colours to match. not just for car paint but everything. so many shades.

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

which polisher are you using. if the 2 handle jobby out of halfords / argos etc then they're fine for removing residue but don't have the ***** to really cut into the paint. better off working by hand tbh fella.

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Many valid points above...

Adam6900 - if the dullness is being caused by a fine layer of overspray then a session with an aggressive clay bar would help no end. The quality of the picture posted isn't good enough to rule overspray out, and whilst as a pro detailer I agree with many of your comments about it being likely the paint will need cutting back, please remember this is an enthusaists forum and we encourage friendly debate. There is no need to put folk down for offering an opinion, please just gently correct them if needs be.

Mneane - Matt, cracking advice as usual, completely agree about the need to remove surface contaminants before machining; there is no way you want fallout, tar, tree sap, filings, overspray being progressively picked up by the foam and then ground into the paint at high speed. Furthermore, I agree with you about the polish choice. G3 and G10 have been greatly surpassed by a raft of new products in recent years that perform significantly better at the same price point (or thereabouts). If you are using a dual action machine I would suggest Menzerna, as per the detailed guide to polishing Subaru paint given below...

https://www.scoobynet.com/car-care-3...d-machine.html

However, if you opt to use a rotary, then the new 3M range is worth looking at, as the polishes and pads are a joy to use and deliver far superior results to G3 and G10. My own approach to that bonnet as an enthusiast would be to clay it thoroughly with Meguiars Detailing Clay Aggressive, and then polish it by dual action machine firstly with Menzerna RD3.02 on a light cutting pad and then Menzerna 85RD on a polishing pad, before sealing/waxing.

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

just ordered some 3m pads to try. will work through the menz i have left and then will try the 3m stuff. oh and finally a wheel back brush borrowed a few when detailing peoples cars and have got hooked

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Cheers!

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

been a stickler for my tooth brushes for ages. which are very good on the insides of wheels but i was getting fed up of scraping my knuckles

mit

iTrader: (10)

Hi, thanks for the replies,i've never really looked into the car care too much,but it's a serious business!! Must admit im more into the tuning side,but it's time to start protecting my investment!
Polish bliss,(Rich?)i contacted you the other day about a starter kit via email,got your reply yesterday,thanks!
Im going to go for the werkstat kit,and also the Menzerna Intensive Polish you sugested.
Should i also go for the quick clay?
I managed to get the bonnet up ok,but feel i could get it better with the Menz. There's no over spray on it,just neglect i think,with a cople of scratches that need something with some bite to get them out. The paint is rock hard on the bonnet,much more so than the rest of the car,but then it is a later bonnet.

Once i get the kit i'll post up some pics of the results.

Again,thanks for the advise!

Mit

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

With regards to the need for clay, wash and rinse the panel then run your fingertips over the wet surface; if you feel any roughness whatsoever you should clay it before polishing.

mit

iTrader: (10)

Hears a pic of what i achieved with the t-cut polish,and about an hour!As said there are a few deeper marks which i'd like to get out. Oh,and it's in the spare bedroom as i have on vents for it yet!


Mi

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Great effort!

mit

iTrader: (10)

Ah,you've just reminded me,i need to spend some money with you! Will order the werkstat kit tonight.

mit

iTrader: (10)

Done!

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Many thanks!