Swissol and machine polishing
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22 February 2006, 10:14 PM
#5
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I bought the Meguiers battery polisher
Sold it on ebay after one go at using it
Can't beat a hand job
Mind you reading the thread removing the scratch I guess you would need the power of a disc polisher for that
Sold it on ebay after one go at using it
Can't beat a hand job
Mind you reading the thread removing the scratch I guess you would need the power of a disc polisher for that
22 February 2006, 10:24 PM
#6
Phil your getting worse 
The thickness of paint on a Subaru is always a standing joke between us, I wonder how it compares to other car makes on the market these days ?
When I was at my dealers the one day I was suprised to hear that a lot of the new shape cars come from the factory with a water based paint on them is that right ? it's all to do with the enviroment again
I would be rather nervous using a machine on mine for the first time
it would certainly take some getting used to.
The thickness of paint on a Subaru is always a standing joke between us, I wonder how it compares to other car makes on the market these days ?
When I was at my dealers the one day I was suprised to hear that a lot of the new shape cars come from the factory with a water based paint on them is that right ? it's all to do with the enviroment again
I would be rather nervous using a machine on mine for the first time
it would certainly take some getting used to.
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23 February 2006, 12:41 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by Silver Scooby Sport
The thickness of paint on a Subaru is always a standing joke between us.
23 February 2006, 01:59 PM
#9
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Give it a rest! Side by side durability tests have proven that sealants offer much more durability than waxes, so if you want better protection Klasse or Menzerna are the way to go. Top quality carnuba waxes give a great finish, but they also evaporate quickly, meaning that all the protection is gone within a few months in most cases.
Machine polishing using a dual action is safe even on cars with thin paint. The dual action units essentially burnish the finish to a high lustre, with minimal paint removal. It's only when you get down to using a compound and a cutting pad that you need to be careful. Rotary polishing is another matter entirely, and not something I'd recommend unless you're thinking of detailing for a living.
Machine polishing using a dual action is safe even on cars with thin paint. The dual action units essentially burnish the finish to a high lustre, with minimal paint removal. It's only when you get down to using a compound and a cutting pad that you need to be careful. Rotary polishing is another matter entirely, and not something I'd recommend unless you're thinking of detailing for a living.
23 February 2006, 10:14 PM
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Here's some starters...
The most comprehensive report conducted in recent years by the Guru Test Report Team reported on wax vs sealant durability... unfortunately it's now sold out, but it's worth tracking down a copy if you can (I haven't managed to yet, but I've read a lot of extracts (see below)...
http://www.gurureports.org/specialre...waxtest.1.html
Next up visit the largest detailing forums in the world...
www.autopia.org
and
www.detailcity.com
and do a search in either for durability or wax durability or sealant durability and see what comes up - there's many a nights reading if you are inclined, with results posted by some very good detailers indeed.
Next up visit the home of serious detailing enthusiasts in the UK and ask the question "What's more durable, carnuba or synthetic sealants?" See what you get back from the experts...
www.detailingworld.com
And then trust me when I say I've done enough cars and gone back to them regularly enough to know when the level of protection is dropping. Carnubas are great, and the only way to achieve that rich, wet look that does indeed look amazing, but synthetic sealants beat them hands down when it comes to reflectivity and durability. Think about the chemistry of it. Natural waxes like to evaporate, and in most cases a thin coat will completely evaporate in three months or less, unless stabilised. Synthetic sealants don't do this - the chemistry in them is designed to bond and do nothing else, hence why they last longer. They are degraded by chemical and physical erosion, rather than by chemical and physical erosion and evaporation.
Of course, you can also read up on what David Bynon at Autopia has to say on the matter. His guides are excellent, and as one of the founding fathers of modern day detailing in the US his opinion is worth something...
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-wax.html
Happy reading...
The most comprehensive report conducted in recent years by the Guru Test Report Team reported on wax vs sealant durability... unfortunately it's now sold out, but it's worth tracking down a copy if you can (I haven't managed to yet, but I've read a lot of extracts (see below)...
http://www.gurureports.org/specialre...waxtest.1.html
Next up visit the largest detailing forums in the world...
www.autopia.org
and
www.detailcity.com
and do a search in either for durability or wax durability or sealant durability and see what comes up - there's many a nights reading if you are inclined, with results posted by some very good detailers indeed.
Next up visit the home of serious detailing enthusiasts in the UK and ask the question "What's more durable, carnuba or synthetic sealants?" See what you get back from the experts...
www.detailingworld.com
And then trust me when I say I've done enough cars and gone back to them regularly enough to know when the level of protection is dropping. Carnubas are great, and the only way to achieve that rich, wet look that does indeed look amazing, but synthetic sealants beat them hands down when it comes to reflectivity and durability. Think about the chemistry of it. Natural waxes like to evaporate, and in most cases a thin coat will completely evaporate in three months or less, unless stabilised. Synthetic sealants don't do this - the chemistry in them is designed to bond and do nothing else, hence why they last longer. They are degraded by chemical and physical erosion, rather than by chemical and physical erosion and evaporation.
Of course, you can also read up on what David Bynon at Autopia has to say on the matter. His guides are excellent, and as one of the founding fathers of modern day detailing in the US his opinion is worth something...
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-wax.html
Happy reading...
24 February 2006, 08:04 AM
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Think about the chemistry of it. Natural waxes like to evaporate, and in most cases a thin coat will completely evaporate in three months or less, unless stabilised.
Also are you saying that the waxes are better than sealants if your car is not really exposed to the elements all that ofter(like mine for example)??
24 February 2006, 09:49 AM
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By stabilised, I mean blended with either an acrylic or other polymer based sealant. Optimum Car Wax is a good example - approximately a 50:50 blend of carnuba wax and polymer sealant. In a side by side test with other spray waxes (not containing the sealant) the Optimum outperformed in terms of durability - in fact it lasted 22 weekly washes under continuous south facing outdoor exposure conditions....
http://www.optimumcarcare.com/optimumwax.html
http://www.optimumcarcare.com/optimumwax.html
24 February 2006, 11:27 PM
#15
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Polished Bliss, do you sell that Optimum gear?
I need a couple of cleaning bits and bobs, seeing as your a new business I thought I'd give you a whirl!
I need a couple of cleaning bits and bobs, seeing as your a new business I thought I'd give you a whirl!
01 March 2006, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray_li
Anybody tried it?
Ray li, they're currently testing a medium cleaner that's designed to be used with a polisher, but the range currently available to the general public is best applied by hand. especially the waxes
regards, Roy.
Last edited by Roy.; 01 March 2006 at 07:44 PM.
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