PPP with what I`ve already got?
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From: Havering, Essex
I am considering further mods to my 99MY-uk and have thought about a PPP as a safe option. However, I already have a S`sport downpipe and Magnex backbox (originally S`sport box but changed to reduce noise level a little) plus K&N panel filter, so some of the PPP kit would not be required. What does the PPP consist of in total, and would the ECU and I.C. piping be available alone? Or is it a case of all or nothing? What would be a good, trouble-free alternative?
Advice please! JohnD
Advice please! JohnD
I had problems trying to buy a PPP chip wihtout the back box and was told by my dealer that I would have to remove my aftermarket exhaust and fit the prodrive one. This was on a 98UK back in 98 I dont know if the rules have changed though. PPP is BB, chip and intercooler piping ( I think)
In the end I didnt bother and just ran it with the BB.
(Edited to say I think the 98 kit had a ramair panel filter as well)
cheers
chris
[Edited by chrisp - 12/3/2001 11:38:16 PM]
In the end I didnt bother and just ran it with the BB.
(Edited to say I think the 98 kit had a ramair panel filter as well)
cheers
chris
[Edited by chrisp - 12/3/2001 11:38:16 PM]
For the MY99 and MY00, it's an ECU, Intercooler hose and Centre section and Backbox. I'd say you're going to have to refit the original downpipe and filter before they'll fit the PPP. You're okay leaving the backbox on, just ask them to stick it in the boot when they remove it.
Martin.
Martin.
Wouldn't bother mate...
Go for a link ECU or equivalent. A full system and induction kit is a very cost effective way of achieving 250 bhp plus and good torque improvements, which is basically what the Prodrive ECU does. Is safe though and warranty approved.
MB
Go for a link ECU or equivalent. A full system and induction kit is a very cost effective way of achieving 250 bhp plus and good torque improvements, which is basically what the Prodrive ECU does. Is safe though and warranty approved.
MB
Hi John,
I am with bennetm on this one mate. You already have the base mods for a nice power figure. Why not consider a mappable (sp!?) ECU like the Link or a UniChip, these will enable you to have the fueling etc nicley balanced out.....
I will be having a UniChip installed into my car in Feb, along with fuel and boost controllers.... I am hoping this should push the power upto 300bhp.
However, if you are concerned with your warranty, maybe the PPP stuff would be the way to go? I am sure you will have no problems selling the bits they dont fit... or they may sell the components seperatley?
BTW - the BPM is going!
Cheers mate
Paul
I am with bennetm on this one mate. You already have the base mods for a nice power figure. Why not consider a mappable (sp!?) ECU like the Link or a UniChip, these will enable you to have the fueling etc nicley balanced out.....
I will be having a UniChip installed into my car in Feb, along with fuel and boost controllers.... I am hoping this should push the power upto 300bhp.
However, if you are concerned with your warranty, maybe the PPP stuff would be the way to go? I am sure you will have no problems selling the bits they dont fit... or they may sell the components seperatley?
BTW - the BPM is going!
Cheers mate
Paul
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Go for the PPP
remember that you get a lovely exhaust with this too! also its not too intrusive and i think if you want extra mods then ask John Banks as he's got the D/P on his too (also has a very nice torque curve on my MY00 PPP
)
Tony
PS, mine pushes 249bhp and 238lbs of torque
remember that you get a lovely exhaust with this too! also its not too intrusive and i think if you want extra mods then ask John Banks as he's got the D/P on his too (also has a very nice torque curve on my MY00 PPP
)Tony
PS, mine pushes 249bhp and 238lbs of torque
Despite mine running very well, I would go for a Link as well in your situation given that you already have an exhaust. Or unichip and a boost controller. PPP + DP + boost controller, Link + Exhaust or Unichip + Exhaust + boost controller all give similar BALLPARK costs and performance from the looks of dyno graphs and people's experiences on here. The PPP without the boost controller would be down on the Link for power with the same exhaust, but torque should be as respectable - just that PPP cuts boost more at the top end than the TD04 requires. Arguably enhanced resale with PPP though. Locality of fitting in Scotland also affected my choice.
With the PPP and a boost controller you can hold more boost at the top end = substantially more torque at 6000rpm and more power = 280+bhp at PE - so maybe 272bhp
in real life?? Look at Andy Tang's charts with PPP + EVC IV
(although his 350+ is obviously better but different discussion).
in real life?? Look at Andy Tang's charts with PPP + EVC IV
(although his 350+ is obviously better but different discussion).
Thread Starter
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From: Havering, Essex
There`s certainly a variation of favorites!
I don`t fancy having to remove the D`pipe to "qualify" for fitting of the PPP, and for the price of that package I could get a Link system plus various gizmos that go with it? I`ve browsed the BR Developments site but there is no indication of installation costs. What would be a typical total cost for an ECU/Knock sensor/lamda sensor package, fitted?
Paul - I saw your ad. Who was giving you grief? Family? Other half? The neighbours? or all three?
(You obviously flogged my old S`sport B`box too soon?)
Regards JohnD
I don`t fancy having to remove the D`pipe to "qualify" for fitting of the PPP, and for the price of that package I could get a Link system plus various gizmos that go with it? I`ve browsed the BR Developments site but there is no indication of installation costs. What would be a typical total cost for an ECU/Knock sensor/lamda sensor package, fitted?
Paul - I saw your ad. Who was giving you grief? Family? Other half? The neighbours? or all three?
(You obviously flogged my old S`sport B`box too soon?)Regards JohnD
The whole Link setup including lambda, knock links and mapping is just short of £1400. I having precisely the same faff, deciding if it's worth taking off the d/p, getting it PPP'd then putting it back on again, or just getting the Link. Arggggggggggggggg.
I've tried a MY99 PPP ECU, I've tried a boost controller with the PPP ECU, I've tried the boost controller with the standard ECU, and I got rid of it all for a Link ECU.
What does that tell you???
Cheers
Andy
What does that tell you???
Cheers
Andy
I'm also at that point, but mine is a standard Euro import MY00 with standard exhaust. Because I want ease of use (i.e. no ***** to twiddle, or lights to make me paranoid), total reliability (if it goes bang, I'm really stuffed) and not too much noise I've (almost) decided to go straight to a PPP. In theory then I could add a DP at some point for more gains at fairly low cost.
PPP at roughly 1600 fitted.
Presumably a link at 1400 fitted and then a big wedge for DP, centre and back box (which I guess should be fitted before the link is mapped?).
Or am I just being a big wuss?
PPP at roughly 1600 fitted.
Presumably a link at 1400 fitted and then a big wedge for DP, centre and back box (which I guess should be fitted before the link is mapped?).
Or am I just being a big wuss?
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