Black smoke and no power
Scooby Regular
Joined: May 2000
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I have posted this on 22b but got little response thought I would try old faithful now its back...I was on my way home tonight and something went seriously wrong with MY93 WRX...
I lost all power and pulled over and the revs just died, I tried starting her and she started but would not tick over and would drive at about 2mph but was very lumpy and was kicking out black smoke....when I got home I left her a minute and started her again and she ticked over without the smoke I cant hear any rattles or horrible noises coming from engine, as soon as I went to rev her though the revs became really irratic again and the black smoke is back....
There are no check engine lights, could a sensor not working cause all this??
Thanks in advance for any ideas...
I lost all power and pulled over and the revs just died, I tried starting her and she started but would not tick over and would drive at about 2mph but was very lumpy and was kicking out black smoke....when I got home I left her a minute and started her again and she ticked over without the smoke I cant hear any rattles or horrible noises coming from engine, as soon as I went to rev her though the revs became really irratic again and the black smoke is back....
There are no check engine lights, could a sensor not working cause all this??
Thanks in advance for any ideas...
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Joined: Mar 1999
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From: Swindon
Black smoke means very rich mixture so its likley that you lambda sensor is dead, or maybe the mass air flow meter is not working properly which would cause the same thing, this normally lights the check engine.
Other things could be that the fuel pressure reg is faulty, easy way to check the lambda sensor is to put an accurate Digital voltmeter across the output and check that a voltage is present, should see an approx 0.5-0.75 volts at idle. On your car the connector is on the left side of the engine clipped to the side of the cam cover just under the coolant header tank (on side) use a needle to probe into the back of it. The contact to probe is the gold coloured one, the other two are just the heater conections.
The lambda sensor is down in the ehaust headers and gets Bl**dy hot, they are always failing due to excess heat. If its failed a new one will set you back about £200. Take a tip, buy the equivelant one for the UK My93 and then remove the old one and crop off its long lead, cut the short lead off the new one and crimp the old lead back on to the new sensor. The UK sensor is "only" about £91.
Mail me if you want to talk this through.
Bob
[This message has been edited by Bob Rawle (edited 04 August 2000).]
Other things could be that the fuel pressure reg is faulty, easy way to check the lambda sensor is to put an accurate Digital voltmeter across the output and check that a voltage is present, should see an approx 0.5-0.75 volts at idle. On your car the connector is on the left side of the engine clipped to the side of the cam cover just under the coolant header tank (on side) use a needle to probe into the back of it. The contact to probe is the gold coloured one, the other two are just the heater conections.
The lambda sensor is down in the ehaust headers and gets Bl**dy hot, they are always failing due to excess heat. If its failed a new one will set you back about £200. Take a tip, buy the equivelant one for the UK My93 and then remove the old one and crop off its long lead, cut the short lead off the new one and crimp the old lead back on to the new sensor. The UK sensor is "only" about £91.
Mail me if you want to talk this through.
Bob
[This message has been edited by Bob Rawle (edited 04 August 2000).]
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Nov 1998
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I agree with bob. Check to see if you have a problem with One of the mentioned sensors, and also check your fluid levels for the correct coloration. Green coolant..at a full level not low and with a brownish hue goop around the radiator cap. If it has this, its definately a headgasket, or a cracked head. Only then.A Light brown to a darker brown oil.. with no Foamy light coloration. That is also an indication of a bad gasket and or cracked head.(coolant entering crankcase).
It does sound alot like a Fuel related problem mainly because of the black smoke. Id also recommend a timing light check. See if #1 Cylinder is getting good flashes at the crankshaft. Ive seen Ignition modules fail like this and cause the engine to run like its flooded..Cant light the fuel, it sure wont run right! It must be a consistant flash. If it is erratic, and bouncing all over when pointed at the crankpulley degreemarker,then the module or crank position sensor is possibly crap. (lamda sensor? Is that what you mean bob? Im from the US, and dont know all of your terminolgy because we have our own). I have also seen situations where you had a bad coolant temp sender that tells the computer the engine is "cold", and not at operating temp. That will cause the computer to increase fuel injector Duration (time open) and spray fuel as if the Choke where on. Does it start good cold? If so, thats likely it. If not, then Id look into some of the things bob mentioned, as well as some of the things Ive listed.
Good luck!
Jeff
[This message has been edited by jeff (edited 05 August 2000).]
It does sound alot like a Fuel related problem mainly because of the black smoke. Id also recommend a timing light check. See if #1 Cylinder is getting good flashes at the crankshaft. Ive seen Ignition modules fail like this and cause the engine to run like its flooded..Cant light the fuel, it sure wont run right! It must be a consistant flash. If it is erratic, and bouncing all over when pointed at the crankpulley degreemarker,then the module or crank position sensor is possibly crap. (lamda sensor? Is that what you mean bob? Im from the US, and dont know all of your terminolgy because we have our own). I have also seen situations where you had a bad coolant temp sender that tells the computer the engine is "cold", and not at operating temp. That will cause the computer to increase fuel injector Duration (time open) and spray fuel as if the Choke where on. Does it start good cold? If so, thats likely it. If not, then Id look into some of the things bob mentioned, as well as some of the things Ive listed.
Good luck!
Jeff
[This message has been edited by jeff (edited 05 August 2000).]
Scooby Regular
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Just spoke to scoobysport to confirm picking up my car tonight when I explained what had happened he seems to think it sound far more serious and at best will mean a new turbo but possibly a new engine..........AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! I hope that the bank managers in a good mood, this car is slowly starting to annoy me now, I ve had it 3-4 months and so far Ive had a failed clutch and now possibly an engine... 
I hope its good news when he takes a proper look.
SEAN
I hope its good news when he takes a proper look.
SEAN
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Sean
This happended similar with my car, manic not it may also be your car wasting boost (ie Dump Valve gone for a Burton). This would cause your engine to run rich and of course you would have a power failure.
Is the smoke blue or black ?
This happended similar with my car, manic not it may also be your car wasting boost (ie Dump Valve gone for a Burton). This would cause your engine to run rich and of course you would have a power failure.
Is the smoke blue or black ?
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 11
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I saw this happen once and it was as simple as a shorting out high tension lead. Try running the engine in a dark garage and see if there are any sparks flashing around. Make sure the high tension lead is not touching an earthed metal bracket. Could also be a broken lead.
Sometimes the simple things are the last things you look for.
Good luck.
Sometimes the simple things are the last things you look for.
Good luck.
Scooby Regular
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 404
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The cars now going in on Thursday morning, when I spoke to Pete I told him there was no horrible noises coming from the engine and that surely if the engine had gone it would be banging and rattling around.....he sort of said it might not be the engine but need to get it on the diag machine first.......I think Im maybe trying to convince myself that its something simple...who knows!!!...the saga continues
Matt,
Ill keep this post updated....
Matt,
Ill keep this post updated....
Scooby Regular
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 404
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After all the pain and worry of the last week its over my scoob is back in action it turned out that the plonkers who fitted my new clutch didnt do up the pipe properly that goes from the turbo to intercooler and it had came off hence all my troubles...
Now to the important part of this post...I would like to say a BIG thanx to Peter from Scoobysport for coming down last night at 21:00 to take a look at and fix my scoob using a few of my cr**py screw drivers and a thomas the tank engine torch (it not mine honest)
, they say first impression last and what a great impression I have got, I cannot recommend this man highly enough and it just goes to show what a good community the scooby owners are.
Thanx again Pete and I will call you on Monday to book her in for that sweet sounding exhaust system..
Now to the important part of this post...I would like to say a BIG thanx to Peter from Scoobysport for coming down last night at 21:00 to take a look at and fix my scoob using a few of my cr**py screw drivers and a thomas the tank engine torch (it not mine honest)
, they say first impression last and what a great impression I have got, I cannot recommend this man highly enough and it just goes to show what a good community the scooby owners are.Thanx again Pete and I will call you on Monday to book her in for that sweet sounding exhaust system..
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