Last time I did it, it took hours 'cos all the cam wheels moved when I wasn't looking. Apart from 'obtaining' a special tool, does anyone have a demon trick for holding them in place while the belt is changed? I've thought of wedges between the cogs, but I am afraid of breaking them. Also thought of making moulds and casting epoxy wedges to go between them which is a possibility. Ideas greatfully received.

Graham

 

When I did mine, only one of the wheels wanted to move. I held it loosely with mole grips wrapped in a rag.

Of course, cling film and an isopon casting is a possibility, as is making soft wood wedges.



[Edited by dnb - 12/4/2003 11:10:11 PM]

 

Yip - You'll find its the left hand inlet cam that wants to turn, the RHS is no problems. When we done our rebuild we found it easy to hold as the engine was out but to do in the car is a tad tricky. After having done this myself it is do-able without any tools IMHO.

 

If the engine is in the car, then removing the rad fans (or even the whole rad) gives a decent amount of work space.

 

Apparently GGR do a cambelt with markings on?!

Looking to change mine in the summer and hoping that will help and as Dnd says I will remove radiator and fmic.

Also heard the mole grips between inlet and outlet cam wheels on each side helps.

JGM

 

Guys, We use ' crocodile ' clips from any stationers they are storng enough to hold the belt and are more user friendly than a 'mole' grip type wrench.

Most cam belts are marked with the timing marks only the cheapest home made, Czechoslovakian ones aren't. Proper ones are made by 'Gates ' who make them for almost everybody in the world.

David

 

Many thanks, Guys. I have a couple of Stanley Bulldog type clips which I think I will try. Found I had plenty of room before without taking the rad out. Must admit I am confused about the timing marks on the belt - why do you need them? If the cams are lined up against their own marks, the belt just goes on?

Graham

 

I think it will allow you to make sure you have it on correctly.

Never changed a Scooby cambelt yet but on the ones I have changed I am always wondering if the longer run part of the belt if I have the correct number of teeth there or if I have managed to allow one extra in etc.. and you never know umntil you have turned the engine over through a couple of revolutions by hand..

If you are able to line the belt up to the pulleys then you have less chance of messing it up..

JGM

 

The theory behind the marks, is that they should identify if the timing is out,or you have misfitted the belt.. however the best way i cans ee is to use the belt marks as reference points, and count the teeth as per the scooby manuals


M

 

I fitted the GGR belt which was marked and lined up perfectly with all the timing marks on the pulleys

 

did mine on monday all u ned is another person 2 hold the left hand camms in position took me a couple of tries 2 get it right but wasnt hard[although if your on your own would be tricky]