Tried searching, but couldn't really find a consensus on what the best way is to retract the new tensioner, at least without using a constant load press.

Anyone got a definative list of how to (or not to) do it?

 

It seems they have to be done vertically?

Advise time, research and caution, I have an expensive, although not as expensive as it could have been, mess on my hands because of one of these.

 

Know exactly what you mean John, I've got another 17,000 miles before it's due, but was figuring changing at 45K just to be safe. Either way, I've got enough time for research

BTW, expect some mail over the weekend

 

FWIW In the pre97 workshop manual it says to squash the older style ones vertically as well...

Greasemonkey - how goes the Bascom project?

I've worked out mine has a UART timing error, but I'm not sure why yet. Got to go and plaster the bathroom now.

 

Like, major bummer on the project dude. [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

I discovered the other night that there's an errata, either in Bascom or in the M8/16, that results in USART ports not CLOSEing properly.

The ports appear to close, but if they're re-opened in anything other than the same direction, baud rate and framing, no data is then sent or received.

This is a problem as the sniffer I wrote queried a wide variety of framings and directions in a single execution. Seems I now can't trust its results, and will have to wait for the full version to turn up so I can use SERIN and SEROUT to probe dynamically.

On the plus side though I've done some research on Nissan's Consult Protocol, which seems to have a number of similarities with Select. Subscribed to a couple of Skyline lists, where there seems to be a bit of a knowledge base on it, so we'll see if that turns up anything useful!

[Edited by greasemonkey - 19/07/2003 17:22:02]

 

I would highly recommend not re-using the belt tensioner. If you must squish it back very, very slowly. My friend changed his timing belt and he ignored me on replacing it and reused his and it took a **** on him. There were bearings and belts everywhere, it shattered his timing cover and it floated a valve and it broke off on the piston. So instead of buying a new one for $100 he spent $3000 on a new motor.

 

a little off topic but I say it anyway. I have a MY00, 48000 miles on the clock and had recently a knock in the engine when doing coldstart.
A ceck in the garage reveals a leaking tensioner....
Costs : new belt, tensioner and work : 500 €, almost 320 £.
I noticed this to Subaru but had no response.
My car maintenaince book says replace cambelt at 60000 miles, not 48000 so I feel I'm ripped of for the price of the tensioner...

 

Change it without delay. I nearly lost a very expensive hand built engine because of one of these. £320 will be the least of your trouble seriously!

 

It's already done, thing I try to explain is. I had to pay for a broken tensioner on the 48000 mile, I tought tensioners where designed to run 60000 miles like they describe in the service manual...

 

Used to be 45 on 99 and they changed it to 60 on the 00. In fact the tensioner is reused by the dealers here.

 

John,

I heard a few days ago a knocking noise on the car, so I made a trip to the dealer...
Indeed for the MY00 it is 60k miles but read this one...

The next day the dealer called me to say tyhe tensioner was gone, all leaking oil hence the knocking sound...
So they replaced the tensioner and also the timing belt on 72000 kms / 48k miles.

I agreed with this all, because I use the car also for track and VERY FAST road driving so it is better to change in advance...

But they charged 174 € for the belt, that is ok, and also 190 € for the tensioner.
Because my car is out of warranty I have now a discussion with Subaru about the tensioner.
They say that the timing belt and tensioner has to be changed on the 60k mark, NOT on 48...
And because the tensioner is 190€, I expect that it last 60k miles.
I hope it's clear enough to read, my English is not so well...

Creepy

 

try http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/tbeltwrx
Here is complete instruction for retracting new belt tensioner
On last page there is a check procedure for the tensioner
Lars

I'm going to replace my cambet in a few weeks (DIY) and plan to reuse the belt tension adjuster if it looks OK ( No oil and no wear)