Rang the dealer to ask if my ppp is in and to give indication of the car comming in as now on 700miles....

Dealer says: 'Your ppp has not come in yet , we would prefer to do the 1000mile service and ppp together, you will be fine up to 1500miles before needing to have the 1000mile service...'

1. Do you honestly think i am driving at 4000rpm a second longer than i have to?

2. Surely 1000mile service is done at 1000 miles?

3. If i left it would subaru moan over a warranty claim at 1400 and no service?

sounds like penny saving......

IMHO - the 1000mile service should be included by subaru!

 

My local dealer said "1500 will be ok".

My supplying dealer said "please get it done by 1200"

I had it done a few miles over 1000

 

Theres a fair bit of small print in the manual which refers to making sure the car is serviced within a certain time/mileage of the specified service intervals. I would think 500 miles would be well within the servicing window though. However too much closer to 1000 miles might be risky.

Get them to take it in and do it for you now so you can drive it properly for a few hundred miles and see the "before" and "after" transformation with the PPP.

 

beefy - exactly what i said, although i drove the std 8 and the ppp7 and i would rather just have it straight away!

 

i had my 1k service done at 1.1k

dealer had originally said the PPP would arrive in time for 1k - it didn't.

i had PPP done at 3k. it was nice to live with the car without and know the difference.

1k service took 1hr, PPP took 4hrs. I'd do what i did and get the service done at 1k and live with the car until the PPP is ready and it's convenient for you.

 

Your dealer would prefer to do them both together? Who cares! You're the one paying the bill - and not a small one either.

Get the 1000 mile service done at the right time, then at least you can start gradually raising the rev limit and enjoying the car as it was designed. Get the PPP fitted when you've enjoyed the standard car for a while.

A.

 

Agree!! I'd want to get that thin, swarf ridden running in oil out of there ASAP!!!!! (run-in service at 1006 miles )

Matt

 

deerhunter,
same with me, ppp there though but only just done 500 miles, can wait though, it makes it more exciting when its fitted. keep off the gas till the 1k, then bring it in steady.reckon 1200 miles to 5rpm....1400miles to 6rpm etc.

 

Most warranties I have come across give plus or minus 500 miles for servicing.
remember that for some of us 500 miles can be just a couple of days of driving...what's the chance of getting it spot on, when you have to book it in a couple of weeks in advance?

 

You shouldn't really go from 4k to the limiter just after the first service. Take r5obbo's advice, and bring up the revs steadily.

Re the service, if the dealer reckons it's OK to have it done, get him to put it in writing. In my experience, these 'it'll be OK to...' comments vary from dealer to dealer. It might even be worth a quick call to IM to check.

Josh

 

they say "it will be OK" to anything that suits them or saves them money.

Then when you have a problem it will be "but you didn't have it serviced on schedule sir"

Make them do it now- if they don't want your business cancel the whole thing and go elsewhere. Tell them you will do this.

 

Plus or minus 500 miles isn't much when the service intervals are 7500 or even 10000 miles apart. When it's a special service at 1000 miles, though, 500 miles is a heck of a difference.

It may be inconvenient, but I'd get the first service done bang-on 1000 miles - it's only ever got to be done once. The STI engine in particular is a precision instrument and it's not as though they've never been known to die prematurely.

Personally I wouldn't want to stress it by adding the PPP until it's well run-in. Give yourself something new to look forward to - I waited a year before putting the PPP on my MY00.

A.

 

1,000 mile service done at exactly 1,000 miles

 

1000 mile service being done at 900'ish

 

The 1000mls/below 4k 'run in' period is mainly implemented to stop customers putting cars into hedges in the first few days of ownership.

Keeping a new engine below 4k for a 1000mls is not the best way to run it in. Anyway, since when does an engine record mileage?

 

What is the best way to run in an engine, then?

 

"The 1000mls/below 4k 'run in' period is mainly implemented to stop customers putting cars into hedges in the first few days of ownership."

What are you on? I've never heard so much plop!

That nasty running in oil needs to come out after 1000 miles, then you can wind her up a bit more, there is no rush if you want your car to be it's best surely to redline it at 1001 miles.

Have the service at 1000 miles, then loosen the car up some more, then have the ppp fitted as said above.

 

Hypoluxa

What an absolute lot of complete and utter bollox

You should be ashamed of yourself posting up such complete and utter misleading trash and I hope no-one on here is gullable or stupid enough to take any notice of your so-called 'advice' [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]



[Edited by SiPie - 4/11/2003 11:51:02 AM]

 

OK, OK - calm down

Andy, the "best" way to run in an engine seems to be a hottly debated topic but I have read lots of opinions which seem to basically agree on:

1. When it's band new, don't let it get too hot
2. Don't labour it at low revs
3. Don't sit at high revs for long (i.e. don't let it get too hot)
4. Don't bound it off the rev limiter ()
5. Build up gradually the rev ceiling that you use
6. Let it warm up before pushing it (and cool down too if it's Turbocharged)

These are the most important points, more so than any specific revs for any specific time. The other point seems to be that you should rev it fairly hard (in short bursts) though not all the way to the redline to get the rings to expand properly to hone the bores fully, rather than sit at say 4000rpm for a long period (which will glaze the bores).

These are the rules I stick to and have always had vehicles which don't drink a drop of oil, and seem to produce very good power outputs.

Ta,

Matt

 

You know now you mention it I wondered why Autoscooby told me to 'run her in' for a 1000 miles when I bought the car off him. Seemed strange when she had 30k on the clock

 

I am not suggesting you do not run it in, just saying its how you run it in that matters. The most critical part of this is ring sealing, and the most important part of this happens within the first 100mls. If you bed the rings in over the operating range of the engine and with varying loads you will end up with an engine that is more efficient. Which means better performance, better economy, better thermal efficiency and it will last longer. I am not suggesting you take it for a blast down some country lanes, far from it, just half a dozen runs slowly increasing rpm and load with each one. You need to let everything cool down between runs. I would then change the oil & filter.

This is what I do, what you do is completely up to you.

SiPie, as you are obviously very knowledgeable, could you please expand upon why my advice should be taken as utter bollox

Ashamed
hypoluxa.

 

Hypoluxa

Why thank you very much for your kind words

Well I regard your information as utter bollox because........

Firstly......your advice about that fact that they tell you to run the car in only to prevent you from putting it into a hedge is simply laughable....I'm sure you agree My mate just bought an ZX6R 636(BH1) and noone mentioned anything about hedges to him

Secondly......Guess whose engine blew up 3000 miles ago and due to the varying degrees of opinions posted on here I decided to get the proper info re running in the new one so looked into it quite carefully. Now from the way you talk about the engine your knowledge appears to be considerably greater than mine re all thing mechanical

So, cos I'm a bit thick I went to the service area at the dealers where the engine was fitted and I wasn't 100% happy with their advice....so

I then spoke to the head mechanic who fitted the engine and felt happy with what he was saying and the reasioning as to why. He made sense

But to make 100% sure I then phoned around and eventually cut out all the nonsense and phoned IM directly. I then spoke in great length to a guy called Stuart Braker (or Barker) at IM who called me back as he was the specific person I should speak to about this.

He talked in great detail about why the running in period was necessary up to the 1000 mile mark for these engines specifically and why different oils would be used initially, why you should vary the rev range but NOT above 4,000rpm and if so then for a VERY brief period of time. He mentioned never to let the engine labour and don't subject it to high temps initialy. Then he mentioned a gradual increase following completion of the initial running in period etc.....He then talked about all the testing that had been done when they subjected engines to different running in schedules and the results over the whole life of the engine.

I then took his opinions and matched them to some good advice from people on here, (Leslie's advice seemed spot on amongst others and matched both IM's and the Subaru mechanic I mentioned) and then followed it to the letter to avoid another £3,567.85 bill.

I agree that nowadays it's not imperative to do the full running in thing with most engines and Renault engines seem to be better in the long term if you boot the *** off them from the word go but I went with what the experts had to say about it as they clearly know more than me

Hope this clears up why I feel qualified to say your info was bollox....... mainly the bit about the hedge ... ok

Cheers
Si





[Edited by SiPie - 4/11/2003 5:05:39 PM]

 

be patient and wait ! all of you, 1k or approx 3 weeks, then feed it in, you have probably all been waiting ages for this car, so don't spoil it for another week or so. you will get out of the car what you put in to it. £20k maybe, lets face it, thats why you bought the car in the first place, you don't want to be let down for a couple of weeks waiting do you?