Special Tools when changing the Clutch?
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Workshop Manual mentions a special tool to support the engine.. I presume I can put a jack under it rather than this tool?
Do I need a tool to align the clutch before refitting the gear box?
Many thanks
JGM
Do I need a tool to align the clutch before refitting the gear box?
Many thanks
JGM
A Jack can be used to support the engine, however i recall just leaving it on the engine mounts...
I have lined every scoob clutch up with my fingers (honest), you can feel if it is lined up..
However, the first clutch i did on a scoob i used a 3/8 to 1/4 socket adapter, the 1/4 bit fits into the flywheel and the 3/8 adapter was a perfect fit for the clutch plate, i then just used a 3/8 extension in the adapter to move it in and out..
What you can do is put the box in gear before you remove it, then when it comes to refitting the box to the engine you can turn the engine over by the crank pulley to help the main shaft locate..
Rob
I have lined every scoob clutch up with my fingers (honest), you can feel if it is lined up..
However, the first clutch i did on a scoob i used a 3/8 to 1/4 socket adapter, the 1/4 bit fits into the flywheel and the 3/8 adapter was a perfect fit for the clutch plate, i then just used a 3/8 extension in the adapter to move it in and out..
What you can do is put the box in gear before you remove it, then when it comes to refitting the box to the engine you can turn the engine over by the crank pulley to help the main shaft locate..
Rob
You will need to support the front of the engine so to get a good angle to replace the box. If you have a catted downpipe and don't remove it you will need to bend the bracket that fits to the gearbox otherwise when you refit it will get in the way. The turbo heatsheilds also catch but it is possible without too much hassle.
If you need more information give me a bell 07771767874.
If you need more information give me a bell 07771767874.
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Colin,
So I can leave the downpipe on and just remove the centre.. excellent as it was a bu99er to change and ended up visiting Wallis Garages
mind you it should now come undone easier as the original had been on there 7years and 119,000miles..
decat only been on for 3000miles
Minty,
I will put a thread up once I have done it.. not going to be for a couple of weeks at least.
Cheers
JGM
So I can leave the downpipe on and just remove the centre.. excellent as it was a bu99er to change and ended up visiting Wallis Garages
mind you it should now come undone easier as the original had been on there 7years and 119,000miles..decat only been on for 3000miles

Minty,
I will put a thread up once I have done it.. not going to be for a couple of weeks at least.
Cheers
JGM
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Leon,
Did you have to remove the driveshafts to move the gearbox back and what about the prop shaft and gear stick linkage?
I doubt I will be able to replace the flywheel and rear crank seal leaving the box on but interesting thought!
JGM
Did you have to remove the driveshafts to move the gearbox back and what about the prop shaft and gear stick linkage?
I doubt I will be able to replace the flywheel and rear crank seal leaving the box on but interesting thought!
JGM
Leon, are you talking about your SEAT??
The gearbox has to come clear at least 4" from the engine to let the clutch clear the main shaft..
The prop does not slide backwards (unless disconnected)
The driveshafts do have a bit of rear movement, but are a peice of **** to remove anyway..
The gear linkage will have to be removed, or bent



Rob
The gearbox has to come clear at least 4" from the engine to let the clutch clear the main shaft..
The prop does not slide backwards (unless disconnected)
The driveshafts do have a bit of rear movement, but are a peice of **** to remove anyway..
The gear linkage will have to be removed, or bent




Rob
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