Whislt I was at work today, having to do some work as scoobynet was down, I started thinking about these mods:

#1046 - vent the std BOV to atmosphere to stop hot gases recirculating into the turbo intake pipe on the over run.

#1047 - disconnect the emmision control pipe from the turbo intake pipe to stop the venting of dirty exhaust gases into the clean air stream, which dilutes/pollutes the intake charge.

#1048 - (this is the wackiest idea) run a duct from the air con to the air filter. Not for cool air/extra power on boost (as there wouldn't be any gain) but to feed cold air at idle to lower the i/l temps at junctions and roundabouts where you have to stop.

At a junction, the intake temps can rise to 60 and even 70 degs on a hot day when stationary, these are the times when you may have to pull into the flow of traffic very quickly (cane it in first gear). This can't be good for the engine or knock and the temps can take 20 -30 secs to reduce once the air is flowing again.

I'll get my coat....

F

 

Not so quick with the coat young man

1046 - Just blank it off, easier and no backfires.

1047 - Yep, done it

1048 - I use water injection for this with some methanol mixed in. causes a slightly rough tickover but 'supercools' the induction route.....which is nice

 

#1046: As the pressure of the gas flowing though the BOV decreases
so does the temperature. So as long as the pressurized charge goes
through the IC and cools down on the way the end result after BOV
should be even cooler air at the turbo intake.

#1048: I think someone has posted the idea of putting two very
flat electric fans below the IC to draw cool air in when standing
still. Forgot the end result of the thread but not everyone was
convinced that it would work.

 

#1046 Yup, been there, done that. Not as much noise as a Forge VTA, but all of the fun of the flames.

#1047 Not done it, but it ertainly would make sense. No, where to mount the catch can?

#1048 Ditch the idea - and don't forget that the air flow is up and out of the scoop when the car is stationary. Now, electric fans, hmm .....

Duncan

PS Keep posting these type of thoughts!

 

Floyd,

Like the air con idea, I know someone asked this before, and it wouldn't gain you anything on boost, but will keep the engine running cooler in hot weather stationary

I like your thinking, like the ECU idea You obviously got proper temperature gauges.

LOL, at what you said about haing to work as Scoobynet was down

Cheers Phill C

 

as mad as a barrel of squirrels

 

Duncan - #1046 Are you saying that if I vent to atmos and blank the turbo intake pipe, that I'll get flameage? How does that work then?

CC - Wouldn't blanking the BOV cause unwanted extra stress on the turbo?

Phil - I'll come up with another good idea sooner or later

F

 

...or a box of frogs

 

"CC - Wouldn't blanking the BOV cause unwanted extra stress on the turbo?"

Yes it will. Depending on your turbo however this may or may not be a problem. The TD series are tough as old boots, my TD05 has been running 1.7 bar for months now without a BOV.
The VF series will not cope as well aparently as the compressor wheels fall apart or bearings collapse

Good ole Mitsubishi TD turbos

 

Talking about reliable Turbos, I was at my dealers yesterday and they had a UK turbo in with a shagged Turbo. They were shocked as the mechanic said that the first shagged Turbo he has seen in Eight years He reckons the UK Turbos are bullet proof

Cheers Phill C

PS Floyd keep thinking up these ideas

 

(UK Turbo)

 

So how might you do this then?

 

And what uses which turbo? I'm always seeing the VFxx & TDxx chucked about the place, but as I never know who's got what car, err, , then I don't know what's going on...
Anyway, now that it's noted that the VF ones are the 'weak' ones & the TD the toughies (thinking of wear only here!), it would be good to know what's in what.
And apologies for the highly confusing question & drifting a little off topic

 

so which turbo do I have in my MY96 UK?!

 

AFAIK early uk cars (up to 97 i think?????)had TD05 (mines a my94 & i have a TD05), big, powerfull but a bit laggy, after that they changed to the TD04, smaller, less powerfull, but less laggy.

C'mon everyone, tell me im wrong!

 

Floyd

I hope I'm not going to disappoint you - a VTA dump valve will give you flames on a fully de-cat exhaust. On my MY01 with de-cat exhaust (uppipe, downpipe, midpipe and silencer - hence none of the three original cats remain (except in my garage - LOL)) changing the standard dump valve to VTA rather than recirculating adds noise (pretty poor, but I'm cheap) and flames (my car is BBM, but the bumper is going soot coloured).

Worth a go!

Duncan

 

Could you tell us a bit more about #1047?

 

Bruce

#1047
There is a pipe which connects to the turbo intake pipe, just after the air filter box. You can disconnect this and blank it off.

AFAIK it recirculates spent exhaust gases back into the engine from the charcole canister - if anyone would like to clarify this further then feel free, because this is guess work on my behalf.

F

 

Bruce / Floyd

Just to confuse the picture, I think there are actually two that you could disconnect. On my New Age there is a large one that is the crankcase breather (would need diverting to a catchcan to avoid dumping oil onto the engine/road), and a small one that is the breather from the fuel tank via the "carbon" canister. The main gain will come from removing the large one as this causes oil carry over on both tired and high revving engines.

Duncan

ChrisB

To do the VTA mod all you have to do is disconnect the pipe that returns the air from the dump valve to the turbo inlet and plug the resulting gap in the turbo inlet pipe.

[Edited by BugEyed - 6/27/2002 8:50:13 AM]

 

I'm on it.

Results later.

F

 

Erm! Help! That might as well be in Dutch. Is it a safe mod? Certainly is cheap

 

It'll do exactly the same as a VTA does, that is instead of going back into the inlet pipe, it'll go to atmosphere!!

Just make sure you blank the inlet pipe hole off!

 

Safe? Yes! Cheap - well a plug cost me 50p so I'm not so sure.

Seriously - (for a 97+) find the dump valve on your intercooler, and there is a 1" diameter tube that connects it to the large (3") diameter tube that fees the turbo. Remove the 1" diameter tube, and plug the hole where it leads into the 3" diamter tube. Job done.

No it is not as good as a Forge (etc.), but it is cheap, easy to revert to standard, and fun!

Duncan

 

Any suggestions for the plug i.e. where from, type etc?

F

 

a bolt in the pipe with a jubilee clip to grip it down. you must have one of these in the garage less than 50p

 

But Mike, think about my power to weight ratio! A bolt will be too heavy, I need a plastic solution.

F