Hi,

I wonder if anyone can advise me on the following issue that I am currently facing with my 2004 WRX. The mechanic who looked at the car, believes it needs crankshaft and bearing replaced. He also thinks the piston slaps could be happening and this requires an expensive engine rebuild! The car has done 160k miles and if it’s not for this issue, it’s in perfect condition. Where can I source a second hand engine to keep my costs down if I want to replace the engine? Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 

If it was me and the car is a keeper , I think you are Better off getting what you have re built , I personally would steer away from a used engine as you don't know what you are getting , speak to an engine builder see what they say , a used could go on for ages or be at the end of its life , if you buy used see if you can find a forged one with proof of re build 👍

 

Alternative is a new short motor, get your heads skimmed and then new gaskets.

 

Thank you VXR2010 and Nossy_89 for your valuable inputs. I reached out to one of the engine specialists and they suggested to use a STI block from them with my own heads to build an engine. The block is quoted around £1200 and buy the time it’s fully installed I am looking around £4000 mark. Even if I am to invest that sort of money, I don’t think the car will be worth it when I come to sell it one day I suppose! So I am really confused in my head at the moment…

 

I've forged three of my current cars , the reason they are keepers , and if rust brings that to an end then they are good for parts , a keeper with a lack of rust worth forging , but if it's got rust issues and not looking long term keeper is it worth doing ? , dilemma dilemma , 4 k is not that bad spread out over a bunch of years and a lot of fun , life is too short 👍😁

 

Before you decide to replace the engine you need to check for the famous imprezza inner rear arch rot. This is now affecting new age 01-06 cars.
With the mileage yours has done I would expect to see some failure of the seam, although there might not be any signs of rust on the outside, the rot from inside out. take the rear wheels off and put your hand up to the top of the sispension strut and feel for rust. This is a newage car.
you can then decide if the new engine is worth fitting.

 

I had the rear suspension changed recently and when we were doing it, we had a good look around and fixed some of the early signs of rust. As you said, rust is very common in those areas and mine doesn’t look too bad at the moment.

 

It's a hard choice you've got to make and how much to spend and where to stop.
I have 1999 sti ra, had it 20 years and done 190000 miles Failed it's mot in April 24...the coilovers had shot their pants and the lastest engine had done about 75000 miles. I couldn't part with it so went down a very expensive rabbit hole.

The dreaded rot both sides








Didn't stop there



Just got it back this week and running it in.

Know when to stop.........................

 

Oh wow! That’s almost new back again! Well done to you. You are right, it’s the unknown when you strip and then the bills start to pile up and you just can’t control it I suppose. Hence why part of me says to part with it without going down the rabbit whole when it’s sensible…

 

Cylinder 1 misfire detected. That’s the message I got from an ODBD reader. It also states MAP sensor to ground issue. When it says cylinder 1 misfire, you potentially want to get all cylinders fixed as opposed to just fixing the cylinder 1 right?

 

Have you had a compression test done?

 

No. How do I get that done?

 

I've used a Clarke kit before, they do a few with different attachments, sorry can't remember the exact kit. There are cheaper ones about but can't comment on them.

How to do a compression test

 

Thank you for sharing the notes. I will have a read and then work out. Not sure if I am capable of performing it though!