So car is off to be built next week , lots being done and lots of bits to go on. Just a thought is will the standard boost solenoid be ok. ?
2016 wrx sti will be running mdx321t and many other supporting bits. If so any recommendations?
many thanks guys.

 

If it was me , I would stay with the standard subaru system , run the engine in , get it mapped and see how you go , I would expect Subarus standard boost control system to work properly and more safely , at least by using subaru standard set up your ecu will know exactly what is going on fuel, boost etc wise , and allow the ecu to do accurately what it needs to do , slightly differently I’ve just had an expensive ebc removed to revert back to the standard boost system on a gtr , safety of my engine and box being the more important part , it’s now been properly mapped and is running better 👍

 

Good info Thankyou. Makes sense if you think about it. Andy f is going to map it once built so I can ask him prior if he thinks it needs it.
I could be wrong but I’m under the impression the electronic 3 port is quicker to shut on / off and more tuneable ? I could be wrong

 

I ran the standard 2 port on my 2015 STI with MDX321T with zero boost control issues.

 

brilliant Thankyou. Out of interest how did you find that turbo on the car ?

 

Is your car JDM or UK?

 

it’s the uk

 

OK but the JDM cars being T/S benefit from an upgraded actuator and 3 port. They all benefit from a 3 port due to the nature the way the boost control system works (and is piped up) anyone that says they don't is deluded. Yes a 2 port will work but not as efficiently as a 3 port.

 

This 👍🏻. 2 port will cope but you’ll get much better and more consistent boost control with a 3 port.

The turbo worked well, it’s a very responsive turbo and spools almost like stock. It’s a big step up over the standard turbo.

 

Great info guys thanks. I’ll get one ordered. Any suggestions ?

 

Correct me if I’m wrong 👍If the three port fails , then there’s nothing to open the waste gate and it can all go bang , which is maybe why subaru changed them , i believe classics were three port ? ?im not saying it won’t make a small difference , but is it really worth it ,if the standard 2 port works I would stick with that just for safety of my engine , are the newer age ecu’s not better at controlling the engine ? Worth speaking to your mapper and see what he says ? I’m more cautions I won’t more power out of a car but I want safe levels of power and for it to last 👍

 

For what it's worth, Bob Rawle recommends a 3-port.

 

whilst a 2port 'could' be made to work at the level required for a 321T (450+) then it accepted practice to simply use a 3port which will offer a straight forward set-up

 

3 port is NO (normally open) so if it fails your on actuator pressure. Only when it is activated/energised by the ecu it operates.
The 3 port setup was changed as a cost saving measure apparently.

 

I’ve messaged Andy f to see what he says. I’ll also speak to the builder as when I drop it off it’s 6 wks to build !! So I’ll have time to order etc.
Ive just ordered a Perrin caik from advice from Andy and builder as the mishimoto one I have they weren’t keen on as it’s the shorter one I’m sure cost will only ho up rather than down. The whole thing is only costing about £1200 anyway. ………. That’s what the missus thinks lol

 

 

I have the Perrin CAI on mine and it works very well.

 

no idea why people but M&shimoto stuff.................. simply appears to be over priced Chinesium with a good social media team.......

 

I put one of their rads on the fsti , it was cheaper than the scooby dealer option, it looks nice , my concern buying a non subaru plastic rad is , is it any good , i tried a few plastic rads that were supposed to be good and lasted no time , the mishimoto one is still on the car 6 or 7 years later , the only issue I had was the small pipe where the red cap was , was leaking , replaced under warrant no quibbles , car takes more coolant which should help cooling , im assuming the rads being bigger are in theory more efficient ? In theory a metal one is less likely to fail and if it does is easier to repair if you are stuck versus the plastic one which can’t be repaired 👍

 

we have stocked / supplied good quality OEM rads for years with no issue
"most" alloy rads under perform and are less effecient in comparison.........

 

Have proved more times than enough that the standard rad is more efficient than the so called uprated 42mm crap.
Backed up by Syvecs datalogging etc.

 

it was in with a load of stuff I brought ( job lot ) was probably always going to replace it as it’s the short one so will be pulling hot air in.

 

I always preferred to use a decent boost controller as you can get the turbo spooling quicker on a standard ecu but if your on a aftermarket ecu just get a 3 port and let the ecu control it.

 

Hence why the change to 3 port as they are more efficient and most if not all are 3 port unless MBC .

 

Thumbs up on this , a normally open boost control system is inherently safer otherwise when you move to a turbo that flows more and spins up quicker you might well experience boost overrun, resulting DET
you never want this even during a tuning run so having a 3 port which also makes life a lot easier for the tuner, that then might give you a faster spool threshold.