Cut a long story short

Picked up this UK turbo recently, knowing it had a boost fault. Also it liked to stall a lot of the time, Its RA motorsport's old wagon, tried getting hold of them for a bit more info on the car but not managed to get hold of them, to know if it's been mapped or not


Replaced the following:

Plugs
Leads
Coilpack
BCS
Map sensor
Camshaft Sensor
Fuel Pump
blanked off the DV Port ( refitted DV after)

Did a ecu reset and checked the codes

Error Code 44 & 45 AKA:

44 Wastegate control solenoid valve

45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve

Ive replaced the boost solenoid with 2 different ones, new silicone hoses ( kept one with restriction pill on),


no airleaks as i can see, checked everywhere.

It has a Y7 ECU,

Im totally suckered as to what to do. im literally at the point of giving it to a garage to sort. Probably fork out OTT for it but i cant think of anything else to change or replace apart from breaking it and using the good bit's on the STI. Not really what i want to do when i plan on keeping the STI in VGC'ish

Compression check all okay all reading between 142 and 148 ( engine warm and throttle open)

Heres a couple of video's to explain the problem a bit better.

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/tom...0cc9e.mp4.html

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/tom...7810a.mp4.html

 

44 isn,t that your code for actuator ????

i had a car do something similer was fuel pump????

 

Comes up as actuator solenoid.

Replaced the fuel pump with a new one. Same fault still

 

Anyone?

 

Going to return the decat downpipe back to standard
Standard TMIC
Standard panel filter

In the first video it does feel like serious boost spike

Anyone with any ideas

 

Any one able to help

Still struggles to start and idles very low for about 30 second's, Has no response to throttle during this time ( replaced TPS - no change)

Bog's down and stutter's with any sort of throttle.

Slightly better with a TMIC on but nothing really

Still shows code 45, witch is pressure sensor valve etc, replaced it and everything to do with it, reset the ECU still no different.

 

Anyone got any ideas?

 

Idle control valve, dv.

 

Replaced the ICV with one of my STI, Seals are like new

Standard DV on a TMIC, did have a FMIC with a baileys DV

 

I'm grasping at ideas like yourself. Temp sensor?. I'm wondering is it fuel or air that is causing the problem.

If its fuel how about the reg maybe check the injectors are firing. Take one of the connectors off at a time. See if it makes a difference.

 

Replaced the temp sensor a wee while ago, didn't make a difference.

Cheers for the help though fella , Different idea's will sort it

On the way home tonight though

kept getting boost spikes alot until i got to Rothienorman, it really struggled to get up the hill on the road out, had to drop down to 1st, got to the top. then all of a sudden it behaved properly, literally like it's supposed to , no hesitancy, 0.9 bar boost, no boost spike or judder. Stayed like that till i got home, started being a bit juddery again when pulled up to park.

In 1st or 2nd it doesnt seem to want to respond to any throttle, Put throttle flat on the floor in first, didnt go anywhere, just got boost spike .

 

Did manage to find out the reason for the map sensor fault code (Fault Code 45)

Bloody wire!! Had to make a bodge out of bullet connector's



If any one has a car there breaking that can cut the plug of the loom, ( approx 10 - 15 cm's of wire still attached it be greatly appreciated.

Still doesnt explain the dodgy throttle problem :/

 

That looks like its been cut and something else wired in with that black tape.

Have you done a reset since you found that.

 

Replaced with a new plug and wiring, Reset the ECU as well..Still no different.

Got a worse problem now. fitted new inlet manifold gasket's. Put it all back together and its running even worse. Feel a engine strip down coming on !!.

 

Throttle body fouled up?

 

Cleaned that out yesterday when i replaced the inlet manifold gasket's. Im almost tempted to sell the brakes off it. or px for some 4 pot's so can free up some pennies to get it running right. think it's worth it in the long haul

 

Well not feeling very comfortable selling the car with the issues it has or even breaking for spare's, cracked on and got a fair bit done

Removed all the amp, sub, speaker wires from the car. was 2 tesco carrier bag's worth !!!did all new vibe audio OFC wiring from the speakers to the headunit, Cheap headunit but it all work's okay now and doesnt sound to bad. Speaker's in good health and no crackling.etc, so happy with that.

Then onto the engine. . .Removed the inlet manifold again and stripped it down for a good scrub as was quite oily inside and for a lick of paint:




The perished turbo inlet pipe, will nip round to "Power Junkies" On Friday and get a better one, cheers fella




Witch left me with this:




Throttle body scrubbed again and cleaned as best i can, soaked ICV in brake cleaner and plus gas, move's a smidge better now.seal's all okay and put back together.

Need the cover's that go underneath the bonnet vent's, there missing and the engine is getting rather wet !! Also can you get seal's that go down the side of the bonnet to help stop rain coming in? as im sure this isnt helping the running issues.

Removed the engine wiring loom and will check properly for issues tomorrow, will probably end up buying a new one

Checked all engine and under dash fuses , all okay and replaced some burnt looking one's. all earth's rechecked and cleaned with a blob of vaseline to cover them.

Tomorrows jobs:

Shorten the braided fuel lines as there far to long and get in the way.
Change FPR over to one of the STI
Check the relay's under the dash, i couldnt get my hand's to them when doing the audio wiring so will remove more of the dash tomorrow, Will check the fuel pump relay. Also is there any for the boost solenoid, as it no longer click's at all.
Stick another Fuel pump in.

Heard also the immobiliser can interupt the fuel pump relay. How do i go about bypassing this? anyone done it before and know witch wires to check / Remove, Once's car's back together will quite happily bring it round for some advice/help ( pennies your way of course)


Onwards and upward's

 

Just strip the plug its easy to do and rewire it

 

Did new wiring for it fella, went quite well considering.

Fitted a few parts on to it, just got to finish wiring it all back up and hopefully solves some of the problems atleast

 

Had a read through, I'm having similar issues. Did you put the standard downpipe back on? Thats the plan that I have but unsure if it will make a difference :/

 

I did put it back on , it ran worse. However that was still with the old inlet pipe and injectors. So ill put it back on now ive replaced most thing's on this engine

 

Re fitted the engine all back together

Checked and clean all earth's. Plus repaired the earth strap from the gearbox to intercooler mount bracket.
New crank sensor
Replaced injector's and returned back to standard fuel rails with original FPR

However im not getting a spark at all. Shes turning over really nicely with plenty of cranking power from the battery,

Removed a plug and lead, turned it over , not sparking.

How do i check the crank + cam sensors working okay??

Checked the injector's are wired in correctly. grey at the front , black at the rear.

Any other thing's i can check?