Prodrive P1 Lowering Springs - Rare Purchase opportunity.
#541
Hello everyboy!
Very interesting this post!! Nice job!! one more frenchy interested by your lowering spring
2pot the Group Buys is always open? I am interested by the kit P11L
top mount shock you advise what?OEM...STI GrN...Whiteline...other?
Thanks!
Very interesting this post!! Nice job!! one more frenchy interested by your lowering spring
2pot the Group Buys is always open? I am interested by the kit P11L
top mount shock you advise what?OEM...STI GrN...Whiteline...other?
Thanks!
#542
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Bonjour!
40 P11L spring sets left
KYB excel-g
KYB agx
Koni inserts
Subaru inverted STI
Road use:
Whiteline KCA335 front top mounts.
Subaru 20370AA240 STI/RA rear top mount: http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=5930
40 P11L spring sets left
KYB excel-g
KYB agx
Koni inserts
Subaru inverted STI
Road use:
Whiteline KCA335 front top mounts.
Subaru 20370AA240 STI/RA rear top mount: http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=5930
#546
Thanks for your understanding as to just how difficult the whole process is.
The P11L rear spring rate is 27.5N/mm, same as the original P1 springs.
You will not need a saggy butt spacer.
£250 inc delivery to France.
I do have bump stop sets for inverted dampers.
When you had your Ohlins rebuilt, do you know what bump stops were installed?
The P11L rear spring rate is 27.5N/mm, same as the original P1 springs.
You will not need a saggy butt spacer.
£250 inc delivery to France.
I do have bump stop sets for inverted dampers.
When you had your Ohlins rebuilt, do you know what bump stops were installed?
Hi 2pot, what are the front rates for the p11L? what are the spring rate for the wrt15? I'm debating on selling my still in box p11l for a set.
NVM found the wrt15 rates post 443. 40N/mm front, 35N/mm rear
Last edited by awdftw; 24 January 2017 at 06:34 PM.
#547
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#551
Installation of WR15R/T is now complete on my AGX ! I will check the alignment asap.
Quick photo with half fuel tank:
Thanks, again, 2pot for your patience, advice and answers to my multiple emails.
After a quick test drive, I can already tell the car handles great! It's just not as smooth as before in the city, of course, but still acceptable. Can't wait to try this new setup on the track.
Quick photo with half fuel tank:
Thanks, again, 2pot for your patience, advice and answers to my multiple emails.
After a quick test drive, I can already tell the car handles great! It's just not as smooth as before in the city, of course, but still acceptable. Can't wait to try this new setup on the track.
#553
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i'm kind of lost with all the codes etc on the thread. excuse my lack of knowledge! i am restoring a P1 to standard form. i want to run the original red inverted subaru kyb struts and standard p1 springs.
i need a set of springs, bump stops and dust covers to suit these struts.
how much are the spring set and for the covers etc.
thanks in advance
andy
Last edited by andymcf05; 05 February 2017 at 10:09 PM.
#554
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
hi
i'm kind of lost with all the codes etc on the thread. excuse my lack of knowledge! i am restoring a P1 to standard form. i want to run the original red inverted subaru kyb struts and standard p1 springs.
i need a set of springs, bump stops and dust covers to suit these struts.
how much are the spring set and for the covers etc.
thanks in advance
andy
i'm kind of lost with all the codes etc on the thread. excuse my lack of knowledge! i am restoring a P1 to standard form. i want to run the original red inverted subaru kyb struts and standard p1 springs.
i need a set of springs, bump stops and dust covers to suit these struts.
how much are the spring set and for the covers etc.
thanks in advance
andy
The P11L springs are 6mm lower, at the front, than the P1 springs:
P11L + new Subaru inverted struts with updated bump stops.
The updated internal bump stops for the P11L springs with the red inverted struts are £50.
P11L springs + updated bump stops for inverted Subaru struts - £285 delivered.
The dust boots I do are for non-inverted struts
The red inverted struts use standard front and rear dust covers. They push over the metal bulge at the top of the inverted struts.
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER BOOT (SUBARU 20322-AA000) Febest: SBSHB-B10F
Rear boot:
20372-AA031
I know you don't need the rear bump stops in the kit below. But, it still might work out cheaper, than buying the rear boots separately?
Subaru Impreza 92-00 Rear Shock Absorber Dust Boot & Bump Stop Kit
#556
Hello everyone!
2pot:
I would like to buy Eibach P11L springs, bump stops for my GC8. I am currently use V6 inverted Subaru struts.
Do I have to change internal bumps stops if I use P11L?
According to previous post, price for P11L springs and bump stops will be something around £285. What about shipping to Poland?
Thanks
2pot:
I would like to buy Eibach P11L springs, bump stops for my GC8. I am currently use V6 inverted Subaru struts.
Do I have to change internal bumps stops if I use P11L?
According to previous post, price for P11L springs and bump stops will be something around £285. What about shipping to Poland?
Thanks
#557
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Hello everyone!
2pot:
I would like to buy Eibach P11L springs, bump stops for my GC8. I am currently use V6 inverted Subaru struts.
Do I have to change internal bumps stops if I use P11L?
According to previous post, price for P11L springs and bump stops will be something around £285. What about shipping to Poland?
Thanks
2pot:
I would like to buy Eibach P11L springs, bump stops for my GC8. I am currently use V6 inverted Subaru struts.
Do I have to change internal bumps stops if I use P11L?
According to previous post, price for P11L springs and bump stops will be something around £285. What about shipping to Poland?
Thanks
#561
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
They're the same.
The 215/45 17 close the arch gap by 7mm, compared to 205/50 16.
On P11L's, fuel load (full to empty) makes a 10mm rear difference.
If you're still fixed on 18's, 215/40 18 would close the arch gap by 9mm, compared to 205/50 16
The 215/45 17 close the arch gap by 7mm, compared to 205/50 16.
On P11L's, fuel load (full to empty) makes a 10mm rear difference.
If you're still fixed on 18's, 215/40 18 would close the arch gap by 9mm, compared to 205/50 16
Last edited by 2pot; 07 April 2017 at 11:13 AM.
#565
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delete if this post is not allowed....
I have a set of prodrive lowering springs that fit a WRX hatch.... perfect condition...
pm me for more details and pics...
as I said delete if not allowed
I have a set of prodrive lowering springs that fit a WRX hatch.... perfect condition...
pm me for more details and pics...
as I said delete if not allowed
#567
Ok guys. I have been running these for a while. (P11L,AGX)
Let me give you some background on my car.
Impreza L
2.2 engine right now no turbo.
6 speed sti transmission
Widebody (sti control arms and lats)
I run 48 offset 7.5 inch wheels with 10 mm spacers for more width.
My roads in UT suck. For this reason I asked 2pot to send me some softer bump stops which I run up front. These have been much better as far as quality of ride but 2pot was worried I might get some rub from it. I rub a little if another person is in the car and I go through a gutter but i measured pretty well on my flares and I don't seem to rub as bad as we would have thought.
I am thinking of using some com c mounts to change my SAI as the widebody has messed it up a bit. I think this will help the suspension out a bit.
I run 2/4 on the agxs and I swap them out for new ones once a year.
I have a 20mm bar up front and a 19mm in the rear. Handling is pretty good but I think I need some more camber.
#568
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
It's an interesting circle you're trying to square.
Most people would have used coilovers and stopped the suspension working - to stop the rubbing. "Any suspension will work, if you don't let it" (Colin Champman). So kudos to you, for trying another way. I know your previous springs were too stiff, for your particular roads.
It's an issue that comes up more in the US - using a wider tyre than 215, and using a wider track. Are your tyres 235/45 17?
Having seen your alignment, I would use the Whiteline front top mounts, to gain some more front camber.
I know the 30mm stiff bump stops act like a switch, on your rough roads, rather than being progressive and the 40mm, soft, bump stops allow rubbing, with your tyre/suspension set-up (even with the 10mm solid clip-on spacer?).
I do have an intermediate 40mm front bump stop, with a soft engagement (Must use the oem front dust boots). Maybe you could try those, when you change to the Whiteline top mounts?
Let me know.
225/45 17 (see below) does work with the 30mm stiff front bump stops and P11L+agx: no rubbing. But, the roads are obviously not as rough as yours and the track is not as wide. Some tyre manufacturers 225mm, measure 215mm.
Most people would have used coilovers and stopped the suspension working - to stop the rubbing. "Any suspension will work, if you don't let it" (Colin Champman). So kudos to you, for trying another way. I know your previous springs were too stiff, for your particular roads.
It's an issue that comes up more in the US - using a wider tyre than 215, and using a wider track. Are your tyres 235/45 17?
Having seen your alignment, I would use the Whiteline front top mounts, to gain some more front camber.
I know the 30mm stiff bump stops act like a switch, on your rough roads, rather than being progressive and the 40mm, soft, bump stops allow rubbing, with your tyre/suspension set-up (even with the 10mm solid clip-on spacer?).
I do have an intermediate 40mm front bump stop, with a soft engagement (Must use the oem front dust boots). Maybe you could try those, when you change to the Whiteline top mounts?
Let me know.
225/45 17 (see below) does work with the 30mm stiff front bump stops and P11L+agx: no rubbing. But, the roads are obviously not as rough as yours and the track is not as wide. Some tyre manufacturers 225mm, measure 215mm.
Last edited by 2pot; 01 May 2017 at 12:09 PM.
#569
Time for a general feedback from me.
I bought a set of WR15R/T last winter, so it's been a few months of use now, including 2 trackdays.
I also got the new bumpstops, and use these springs on Kayaba AGX dampers.
I bought Whiteline KCA335 front top mounts, that are supposed to give extra camber (lol nope) and extra caster (yes, a lot). The orientation of these mounts is designed to work best on newer WRX or STI, where the 3 holes for the top mount bolts have a different orientation than on a GC8. The result on a GC8 is a strut than leans a lot towards the back of the car (caster increase), but bearly not towards the inside of the car (so almost no negative camber increase). That is a bit disappointing.
I also bought a Whiteline KCA319A anti-lift kit. I'm still wondering what this is useful for. Appart from having the front dive under braking, which is disturbing, I didn't really notice any change. I'm planning to take it off and see if I notice any regression in handling. I know you didn't recommend this upgrade, Mark.
Now for the springs themselves. The excitement from having brand new parts and stuff is now gone, and I can think clearly. I'm not sure I like them. At least, I don't think I like them with AGX dampers. They feel way too hard on the road, the ride quality went too bad in my opinion, compared to the Pro Kit I had before on the same dampers, that were super smooth. On the track, they do a bit better and reduce bodyroll a bit. The car tends to understeer more than before now, because the front/rear stiffness ratio is way different than the one from the Pro Kit (which had more stiffness to the rear) : less fun, even with a 8/8 AGX setting at the rear. I'm going to try to add clip-on bump stops at the rear. In my opinion, the loss in ride quality is not worth the results on the track as it is. It's very frustrating how these 4kg springs are too stiff for the road and just okay for the track in my current setup, while Bilstein B16 coilovers have 7kg springs and work wonders on the road. Is the damping from the AGX that bad for WR15R/T?
I'm a bit lost right now. Wondering what I'm going to do next. Not rushing it, trying to think of my options to be satisfied :
- get new quality dampers (B8?) to try to make these springs work as I wish they would
- crack a lot of money and get B16 PSS9
- got back to the Pro Kit springs and add bigger sway bars, which wouldn't be worse in ride quality
Or am I just missing something out?
I bought a set of WR15R/T last winter, so it's been a few months of use now, including 2 trackdays.
I also got the new bumpstops, and use these springs on Kayaba AGX dampers.
I bought Whiteline KCA335 front top mounts, that are supposed to give extra camber (lol nope) and extra caster (yes, a lot). The orientation of these mounts is designed to work best on newer WRX or STI, where the 3 holes for the top mount bolts have a different orientation than on a GC8. The result on a GC8 is a strut than leans a lot towards the back of the car (caster increase), but bearly not towards the inside of the car (so almost no negative camber increase). That is a bit disappointing.
I also bought a Whiteline KCA319A anti-lift kit. I'm still wondering what this is useful for. Appart from having the front dive under braking, which is disturbing, I didn't really notice any change. I'm planning to take it off and see if I notice any regression in handling. I know you didn't recommend this upgrade, Mark.
Now for the springs themselves. The excitement from having brand new parts and stuff is now gone, and I can think clearly. I'm not sure I like them. At least, I don't think I like them with AGX dampers. They feel way too hard on the road, the ride quality went too bad in my opinion, compared to the Pro Kit I had before on the same dampers, that were super smooth. On the track, they do a bit better and reduce bodyroll a bit. The car tends to understeer more than before now, because the front/rear stiffness ratio is way different than the one from the Pro Kit (which had more stiffness to the rear) : less fun, even with a 8/8 AGX setting at the rear. I'm going to try to add clip-on bump stops at the rear. In my opinion, the loss in ride quality is not worth the results on the track as it is. It's very frustrating how these 4kg springs are too stiff for the road and just okay for the track in my current setup, while Bilstein B16 coilovers have 7kg springs and work wonders on the road. Is the damping from the AGX that bad for WR15R/T?
I'm a bit lost right now. Wondering what I'm going to do next. Not rushing it, trying to think of my options to be satisfied :
- get new quality dampers (B8?) to try to make these springs work as I wish they would
- crack a lot of money and get B16 PSS9
- got back to the Pro Kit springs and add bigger sway bars, which wouldn't be worse in ride quality
Or am I just missing something out?
#570
It's an interesting circle you're trying to square.
Most people would have used coilovers and stopped the suspension working - to stop the rubbing. "Any suspension will work, if you don't let it" (Colin Champman). So kudos to you, for trying another way. I know your previous springs were too stiff, for your particular roads.
It's an issue that comes up more in the US - using a wider tyre than 215, and using a wider track. Are your tyres 235/45 17?
Having seen your alignment, I would use the Whiteline front top mounts, to gain some more front camber.
I know the 30mm stiff bump stops act like a switch, on your rough roads, rather than being progressive and the 40mm, soft, bump stops allow rubbing, with your tyre/suspension set-up (even with the 10mm solid clip-on spacer?).
I do have an intermediate 40mm front bump stop, with a soft engagement (Must use the oem front dust boots). Maybe you could try those, when you change to the Whiteline top mounts?
Let me know.
225/45 17 (see below) does work with the 30mm stiff front bump stops and P11L+agx: no rubbing. But, the roads are obviously not as rough as yours and the track is not as wide. Some tyre manufacturers 225mm, measure 215mm.
Most people would have used coilovers and stopped the suspension working - to stop the rubbing. "Any suspension will work, if you don't let it" (Colin Champman). So kudos to you, for trying another way. I know your previous springs were too stiff, for your particular roads.
It's an issue that comes up more in the US - using a wider tyre than 215, and using a wider track. Are your tyres 235/45 17?
Having seen your alignment, I would use the Whiteline front top mounts, to gain some more front camber.
I know the 30mm stiff bump stops act like a switch, on your rough roads, rather than being progressive and the 40mm, soft, bump stops allow rubbing, with your tyre/suspension set-up (even with the 10mm solid clip-on spacer?).
I do have an intermediate 40mm front bump stop, with a soft engagement (Must use the oem front dust boots). Maybe you could try those, when you change to the Whiteline top mounts?
Let me know.
225/45 17 (see below) does work with the 30mm stiff front bump stops and P11L+agx: no rubbing. But, the roads are obviously not as rough as yours and the track is not as wide. Some tyre manufacturers 225mm, measure 215mm.
I run 245 tires with a 10 mm spacer.
What is the difference between the one you gave me and the ones you are talking about?
Honestly I have the money to go for a coil over, but I have never ridden in a car that had comfortable coils. I would love the adjustability but im still on the fence. Your springs are pretty damn good. The only time they really suffer is when I am going 20 and below. At higher speeds the ride isnt a problem.