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I have a knackered 321T, the bearing collapsed but similar outcome for the impellers. Does the repair cost make it worthwhile or is brand new a better option? Glad it all worked out for you!
full rebiil cost 1270 but that is near enough a new turbo. I think new ones are around 1800 with the vat. hurt the pocket at the time but glad I had it done now..
They only need minimal grinding off the crank case to clear & some don't need any. The trick is to lever the turbo away from the block while tightening the mounting bolts.
They only need minimal grinding off the crank case to clear & some don't need any. The trick is to lever the turbo away from the block while tightening the mounting bolts.
Lever it away from the block - really? I don't doubt you, just sounds a bit iffy
Lever it away from the block - really? I don't doubt you, just sounds a bit iffy
I don't mean with a scaffold pole, LOL. Do a dry run first to see how bad it catches the crank case, gently lever it away from the block as you tighten it up. If it catches mark where then remove the turbo & grind the block away taking care to seal off any open air pipes etc. Refit, & if the clearance isn't enough take off a bit more until you have a gap of at least 3mm, any less & heat expansion may cause it to touch. Trust me Iv done a few of these now with no issues.
Would a screwdriver do the job, I think I am following what you mean about levering the turbo, as for grinding, is it something that can be done with a cheap BnQ angle grinder?
The OEM is strong enough but the samco flows better. Best to source from RCM or Lateral, cheaper is bad news as they can squeeze in at higher boost.
Trev
The OEM is strong enough but the samco flows better. Best to source from RCM or Lateral, cheaper is bad news as they can squeeze in at higher boost.
Trev
Would a screwdriver do the job, I think I am following what you mean about levering the turbo, as for grinding, is it something that can be done with a cheap BnQ angle grinder?
Screw driver is fine. An angle grinder will do but may be a bit big, a die grinder or drimmel is ideal.
yeah dont look too pretty does it.
ive learnt my lesson and im never buying second hand things again. the guy i bought it off said this turbo was in good condition! ! yeah right!
yeah dont look too pretty does it.
ive learnt my lesson and im never buying second hand things again. the guy i bought it off said this turbo was in good condition! ! yeah right!
You cant let one bad expereince put you off Craig. Yes there are plenty con men out there, but there are many decent lads too with genuine items forsale
If in doubt, pay with paypal "goods" and ensure to document the purchase via a thread for all to see, then you can provide links for a paypal dispute
I personally pay with whatever suits, if the guy is a reputable type of guy, then I paypal "gift" or bacs, if its a newbie or someone your unsure about, then paypal "goods"
Rob
ps - I cant see the images (work pc), what power have you now got out of the "T" on the 2.0 ?
Perin inlet works well for me too MD321T+ (close to V)
I would choose it over the Samco.
I know some one who had a Samco suck in and then put an Autobahn88 one on and suprisingly it performed better.
Spoke about the inlets with Harvey (RIP) and we went for the Perin item
On PUMP fuel often non billet MD make anout 25hp less than max advertised output.
So often a non billet 321T rated at 450hp - will see about 425 on v power. It will obviously make more with jungle juice or whatever added.
So 440 a good figure
Interesting to see what extra the billet gives on pump fuel. About 15hp ish by the looks of things.
Last edited by Steve Whitehorn; 27 February 2014 at 09:02 PM.
The billet version may spool a bit quicker but I don't think the ultimate power would be much different. My 2ltr on the MDX321T gave 436 on straight Vpower. I think the mapper was expecting a tad more but was more than happy with the result after the test drive.