3 port subaru oil catch cans
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From what I've read in the past the oil vapour needs to be 'worked' in order to separate the oil from the air the most efficiently, making the vapour pass through a baffle or some sort of restriction will do this and also trap the oil.
What I have just said may however be complete rubbish!
What I have just said may however be complete rubbish!
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Last edited by classicgc8; 23 March 2013 at 12:44 AM.
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I'm not sure on the inlet side but from memory the crank is 18mm and the heads 15mm, I will get out today to measure this.
I know having the filter direct on the top and in the bay can cause a bit of fumes in the cabin but I'd rather this than a pipe under the car.
For the outlet I'd say 25mm to take one of these filters:
62-1420
Product Specifications
Product Style: Rubber Base Crankcase Vent Filters
Flange Inside Diameter: 1 in (25 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Height: 2.25 in (57 mm)
Top Style: Metal
Top Material/Finish: Chrome
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Flanges: 1
Inner Wire: No
Weight: 0.4 lb (0.18 kg)
Product Box Length: 7.25 in (184 mm)
Product Box Width: 6 in (152 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.25 in (83 mm)
I know having the filter direct on the top and in the bay can cause a bit of fumes in the cabin but I'd rather this than a pipe under the car.
For the outlet I'd say 25mm to take one of these filters:
62-1420
Product Specifications
Product Style: Rubber Base Crankcase Vent Filters
Flange Inside Diameter: 1 in (25 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Height: 2.25 in (57 mm)
Top Style: Metal
Top Material/Finish: Chrome
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Flanges: 1
Inner Wire: No
Weight: 0.4 lb (0.18 kg)
Product Box Length: 7.25 in (184 mm)
Product Box Width: 6 in (152 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Last edited by BlueBugEye; 23 March 2013 at 08:34 AM.
#53
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Just noticed this and my personal comments below, let me know what you think?
I'm assuming the 18mm inlets have been suggested as the breathers on the heads are such. But a tried and tested Subaru can has 10mm inlets ID and a swaging at the end of the port being 15mm and has been run on many race cars without probs. This allows a good balanced flow of crankcase pressure.
The 25mm vent is bang on - anyone who doesn;t want to vent into bonnect will need to pipe off and vent at the bottom of the engine bay (away from the engine) but the only problem when you want to do this and the vents at the top is that the hose will kink causing a restriction.
Decisions, decisions
PS - Some of my conversation with chris on FB below:
the baffle plates the wrong way round and will result in an ineffective can. Chris will be placing the baffle plate in the other direction which will ensure the gases from all ports hit the plate.
Chris It will be fine to put in a side Feed for the extra port but just keep it on the inlet side of the can.
i'm hoping this has a screw out bottom - as it would be very good to offer a quick screw in -10 fitting or a blanking plug saves welding at a later stage
the opening that the gases come out through from the can into the vent port looks tiny - on the image im looking at its the see through image and i see a very small square hole just want to say that the size of the port needs to be consistent from inside of can to the very end of the vent to ensure the can works properly
I'm assuming the 18mm inlets have been suggested as the breathers on the heads are such. But a tried and tested Subaru can has 10mm inlets ID and a swaging at the end of the port being 15mm and has been run on many race cars without probs. This allows a good balanced flow of crankcase pressure.
The 25mm vent is bang on - anyone who doesn;t want to vent into bonnect will need to pipe off and vent at the bottom of the engine bay (away from the engine) but the only problem when you want to do this and the vents at the top is that the hose will kink causing a restriction.
Decisions, decisions
PS - Some of my conversation with chris on FB below:
the baffle plates the wrong way round and will result in an ineffective can. Chris will be placing the baffle plate in the other direction which will ensure the gases from all ports hit the plate.
Chris It will be fine to put in a side Feed for the extra port but just keep it on the inlet side of the can.
i'm hoping this has a screw out bottom - as it would be very good to offer a quick screw in -10 fitting or a blanking plug saves welding at a later stage
the opening that the gases come out through from the can into the vent port looks tiny - on the image im looking at its the see through image and i see a very small square hole just want to say that the size of the port needs to be consistent from inside of can to the very end of the vent to ensure the can works properly
Last edited by STI_Baly; 23 March 2013 at 10:41 AM.
#54
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Just noticed this and my personal comments below, let me know what you think?
I'm assuming the 18mm inlets have been suggested as the breathers on the heads are such. But a tried and tested Subaru can has 10mm inlets ID and a swaging at the end of the port being 15mm and has been run on many race cars without probs. This allows a good balanced flow of crankcase pressure.
The 25mm vent is bang on - anyone who doesn;t want to vent into bonnect will need to pipe off and vent at the bottom of the engine bay (away from the engine) but the only problem when you want to do this and the vents at the top is that the hose will kink causing a restriction.
Decisions, decisions
PS - Some of my conversation with chris on FB below:
the baffle plates the wrong way round and will result in an ineffective can. Chris will be placing the baffle plate in the other direction which will ensure the gases from all ports hit the plate.
Chris It will be fine to put in a side Feed for the extra port but just keep it on the inlet side of the can.
i'm hoping this has a screw out bottom - as it would be very good to offer a quick screw in -10 fitting or a blanking plug saves welding at a later stage
the opening that the gases come out through from the can into the vent port looks tiny - on the image im looking at its the see through image and i see a very small square hole just want to say that the size of the port needs to be consistent from inside of can to the very end of the vent to ensure the can works properly
I'm assuming the 18mm inlets have been suggested as the breathers on the heads are such. But a tried and tested Subaru can has 10mm inlets ID and a swaging at the end of the port being 15mm and has been run on many race cars without probs. This allows a good balanced flow of crankcase pressure.
The 25mm vent is bang on - anyone who doesn;t want to vent into bonnect will need to pipe off and vent at the bottom of the engine bay (away from the engine) but the only problem when you want to do this and the vents at the top is that the hose will kink causing a restriction.
Decisions, decisions
PS - Some of my conversation with chris on FB below:
the baffle plates the wrong way round and will result in an ineffective can. Chris will be placing the baffle plate in the other direction which will ensure the gases from all ports hit the plate.
Chris It will be fine to put in a side Feed for the extra port but just keep it on the inlet side of the can.
i'm hoping this has a screw out bottom - as it would be very good to offer a quick screw in -10 fitting or a blanking plug saves welding at a later stage
the opening that the gases come out through from the can into the vent port looks tiny - on the image im looking at its the see through image and i see a very small square hole just want to say that the size of the port needs to be consistent from inside of can to the very end of the vent to ensure the can works properly
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Last edited by mctwistuk; 23 March 2013 at 08:01 PM.
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Cheers
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Cheers
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