advice on classic
#32
daz b, you have a 1 owner classic with only 27k on the clock? crazy i bet thats nice and tidy, fair play.
I am hoping to look at a classic over the next weekend or before xmas anyway if possible. bit of a strange time to buy a car and get it all sorted with tax, insurance etc but i figure if its a good one then its worth the hassle.
How early can you put it through its MOT as its only until the end of Jan and for piece of mind would like it with 12 months so i am not paranoid about it for my 1st months ownership. Think tax is end of jan as well but will just use that as a bargaining point i think. so heres hoping i might be joining the gang fairly soon, fingers crossed!
I am hoping to look at a classic over the next weekend or before xmas anyway if possible. bit of a strange time to buy a car and get it all sorted with tax, insurance etc but i figure if its a good one then its worth the hassle.
How early can you put it through its MOT as its only until the end of Jan and for piece of mind would like it with 12 months so i am not paranoid about it for my 1st months ownership. Think tax is end of jan as well but will just use that as a bargaining point i think. so heres hoping i might be joining the gang fairly soon, fingers crossed!
#33
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Cheers mate,yes it's a good un also just brought a 03 sti from a friend with only 13000 miles on the clock!! He had it from new.i think you can mot it 3 weeks before due date,but just have it done now and lose the month to end of jan,peace of mind more important.
#34
so guys, what cash should be put aside for a cambelt change on a turbo 2000? will it almost certainly need a flywheel or a flywheel skim? What sort of servicing costs should i expect from a well looked after average miles per year car? i am worried mainly about the brake changes as i can imagine those to be very expensive? what do people pay for there discs and pads?
cheers guys
cheers guys
#35
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Hi,
so i am looking for a nice unmodified, well looked after facelift classic.
I was just hoping i could get some idea on when things tend to go on well looked after cars so i can check if they have been done and pay more attention to them. I have seen some 1 owner cars with 150,000 on them but dont know if thats ok?
So heres my list but feel free to add other things you have had go:
exhaust: how many years / miles before needs replacing?
Clutch: how many miles before needs replacing?
Turbo: same as above
cambelt: is it every 60,000?
so they are the basics but if anyone has others that are a common thing please point me in the right direction. i.e gearbox, diff etc
do they suffer from electrical faults on locks, windows etc?
Thanks
Michael
so i am looking for a nice unmodified, well looked after facelift classic.
I was just hoping i could get some idea on when things tend to go on well looked after cars so i can check if they have been done and pay more attention to them. I have seen some 1 owner cars with 150,000 on them but dont know if thats ok?
So heres my list but feel free to add other things you have had go:
exhaust: how many years / miles before needs replacing?
Clutch: how many miles before needs replacing?
Turbo: same as above
cambelt: is it every 60,000?
so they are the basics but if anyone has others that are a common thing please point me in the right direction. i.e gearbox, diff etc
do they suffer from electrical faults on locks, windows etc?
Thanks
Michael
It was a MY00 Wagon Classic with 100,000 miles on it - 1 owner - never raced or modified - Full Service History and a Folder full of receipts.
The front brake pads and discs lasted me, if I can remember, 65,000 miles.
The rear brake pads lasted me around 85,000 miles.
The clutch was original, as was the exhaust and Turbo ... it had it's original MAF even.
Engine never missed a beat, gearbox was smooth and responsive.
It was needing its second cambelt change and needed a new knock sensor possibly.
Tyre lasted 25,000 miles each - which is terrible - but it is AWD with quite a lot of power being put through them.
My advice would be to buy a Wagon - much higher chance of finding a cracker that way.
You are right to avoid all modified cars - too many hobbyists around I'm afraid, who think they are smarter than the Subaru Engineers
Happy hunting ..... if you find a good one, GRAB IT - it won't let you down!
#36
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1 owner wrx wagon in the trader with 115k for 2300 ish
not bad if you get it for 2k
try Aviva for insurance, get online quote, wait for them to phone you back, usually next day try and get it cheaper, worked for me
in 2008 I got a 1 owner classic (year 2000) with 115k on for £1500, just needed a MAF
not bad if you get it for 2k
try Aviva for insurance, get online quote, wait for them to phone you back, usually next day try and get it cheaper, worked for me
in 2008 I got a 1 owner classic (year 2000) with 115k on for £1500, just needed a MAF
Last edited by LeeMac; 20 December 2012 at 02:18 AM.
#37
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Also get on the floor and shine a torch up into the gap by the rear number plate on the back bumper as the cross member that the number plate lights hang off are really prone to rot. Also remove the space saving wheel and check in the spare wheel well for rot as well.
Arches are layered, 3 I think, and even a tiny bit of bubbling on the outer paintwork can be hiding a real mess.
Arches are layered, 3 I think, and even a tiny bit of bubbling on the outer paintwork can be hiding a real mess.
#38
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Cambelt change I pay £180, average service cost £200,brakes depend on what you go for,fast road pads etc costs could be £300-400 discs & pads.if you keep with 17" tyres prices are good,I pay more for 16" tyres as they are not as popular!!
#39
Daz b,the one I have seen is on the standard 16" wheels.the only prices I have got were from a specialist with a big service with cambelt over £300 and an exedy stage 1 clutch around £500 fitted so this takes me over my ideal budget and bumps price up quite a bit.think I still want a saloon ideally but a wagon could be an option,fit the dog and work gear in easier as well!
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