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Old 30 April 2012, 06:31 PM
  #61  
mike h
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Done the same with my ball joints, you know you also need to keep the boot off the ball joint too.
Old 30 April 2012, 11:49 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by mike h
Done the same with my ball joints, you know you also need to keep the boot off the ball joint too.
No I didn`t, thanks for that.

This is what I`ve got coming.


So will see whats what tomorrow and transfer of a boot over is no biggie, as I`m looking at my old one and the boot looks dirty but no splits, so a cir-clip pliers will do the job nicely.
Old 01 May 2012, 06:59 AM
  #63  
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Have fun, mine were a pain in the *** to change.
Old 01 May 2012, 11:34 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by R1CH D
Have fun, mine were a pain in the *** to change.
I thought mine was but it popped out nice and easy, a slight dab of copper grease should do the trick
Old 01 May 2012, 01:07 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by mike h
Done the same with my ball joints, you know you also need to keep the boot off the ball joint too.
Ball joint just arrived and the cone fits onto the ball joint fully with no need to do anything to the rubber boot apart from slide it down a bit, and the boot goes further than the cone does.

So unless I`ve missed something, or itsa different ball joint to what you had I dunno what needs doing.
Old 01 May 2012, 02:11 PM
  #66  
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I'll be taking my steering rack off this weekend with a bit of luck.

I will have two Track rod ends from my Classic STI spare.
Old 01 May 2012, 05:44 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
I'll be taking my steering rack off this weekend with a bit of luck.

I will have two Track rod ends from my Classic STI spare.
I don`t think I`m gonna need them thanks Ian, its the hubs lower ball joint that is out and to be replaced.

I do also have a steering rack gaitor to replace, but am weighing up my options on how to do it (and if I can be asked). I`ve a spare steering rack in my garage, but both gaitors are shot, so if I mess it up I`ll use that lol.

But I`ll bear that in mind incase (as my luck goes this way) I mess everything up lol. Cheers Ian.
Old 01 May 2012, 08:09 PM
  #68  
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Been nice since I got back from work so off to do a bit more.

My bits had arrived.


Old vs new (cone removed for ally wishbones).


And fitted.


Track rod end removed to get the broken boot off.



Boot fitted and track rod back on.


Nice dollop of grease.


All tied on and done.


My "helper".


Also fitted new roll pins.

Whats left.

Fit prop,
Fit Exhaust,
Fit rear diff,
Fill oil.
Old 01 May 2012, 08:54 PM
  #69  
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Should of said as I have the proper metal circlips and pliers here.
Old 01 May 2012, 09:51 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
Should of said as I have the proper metal circlips and pliers here.
For the rubber boot??

Propshaft is now on, and exhaust is under the car, white wheels on front.

Whats left is.

Drop front down, raise rear and swap diff.
Fit exhaust to turbo and underneath, fill gearbox and diff with oil.

Old 01 May 2012, 10:53 PM
  #71  
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These things here.

Pliers are like wire strippers.

The circlips are in a variety of lengths.


The one here have hooked ends to prevent slipping.


And I'll have two of these spare on the weekend.
Old 01 May 2012, 11:16 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
These things here.

Pliers are like wire strippers.

The circlips are in a variety of lengths.


The one here have hooked ends to prevent slipping.


And I'll have two of these spare on the weekend.
Ah ha!
From having owned a Vauxhall all their intake assembly on the V6 has those pesky clips, and I`ve those pliers and a few clips left. But from having to undo 12 every time I needed to do anything on the stupid thing, I hate them. They work dam well, but I hate them lol. I changed all of mine to jubilee clips in the end.
I always found they were either just a bit too tight or a just a bit too slack.

Last edited by Jimbob; 01 May 2012 at 11:23 PM.
Old 02 May 2012, 01:11 PM
  #73  
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Couple of fiddly jobs done today that I had overlooked, but knew I had to do them.

clutch slave fitted,
exhaust on to turbo (loose)
lambda plugged in,
vac pipes all plumbed in,
all boost pipes tightened.


Front is now complete.

Jack up the rear and do that next.
Old 02 May 2012, 01:41 PM
  #74  
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Before.


After.
Old 02 May 2012, 02:18 PM
  #75  
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Where did you get that Gas Strut from that i see is fitted?
Old 02 May 2012, 03:06 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Jimbob
Ah ha!
From having owned a Vauxhall all their intake assembly on the V6 has those pesky clips, and I`ve those pliers and a few clips left. But from having to undo 12 every time I needed to do anything on the stupid thing, I hate them. They work dam well, but I hate them lol. I changed all of mine to jubilee clips in the end.
I always found they were either just a bit too tight or a just a bit too slack.

Measure twice, check fit twice and only fit once.
Old 02 May 2012, 05:46 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Springs
Where did you get that Gas Strut from that i see is fitted?
Was an Ebay purchase.

Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
Measure twice, check fit twice and only fit once.
Lol it was a Vauxhall, so best thing for it would have been a box of swan vestas and half a gallon of premium unleaded lol.
Old 02 May 2012, 06:41 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Jimbob
Ball joint just arrived and the cone fits onto the ball joint fully with no need to do anything to the rubber boot apart from slide it down a bit, and the boot goes further than the cone does.

So unless I`ve missed something, or itsa different ball joint to what you had I dunno what needs doing.
Strange. The standard ones normally come with the bigger boot as they don't squish so much due to the steel arms not having the cone insert.


If yours came with the shorter boot then it saved you fiddling with it!
Old 02 May 2012, 10:18 PM
  #79  
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Well I think you are going to beat me by aleast a week!! Fair play for making that progress over the last few days, can't have been easy with the weather we're having.
Old 02 May 2012, 11:13 PM
  #80  
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Fair play Jimbob, you have made good progress in difficult conditions and a less than ideal work area.

And yes that is me paying you a compliment.
Old 03 May 2012, 01:02 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by mike h
Strange. The standard ones normally come with the bigger boot as they don't squish so much due to the steel arms not having the cone insert.

If yours came with the shorter boot then it saved you fiddling with it!
Mine isn`t a standard one was a pattern thing, £8 odd, so worth the less money if it lasts and saves hassle.

Mine vs standard.


Originally Posted by redwards
Well I think you are going to beat me by aleast a week!! Fair play for making that progress over the last few days, can't have been easy with the weather we're having.
Well no lol. At one point was me wrapped up in a plastic tarp sheet under the car letting the worst of it flow under me, just a shame its been the worst April since records began (apparently) lol.

Originally Posted by Cannon Fodder
Fair play Jimbob, you have made good progress in difficult conditions and a less than ideal work area.

And yes that is me paying you a compliment.
Lol. Well its more ideal than when I fitted my engine, as atleast I`m at home with my tools lol. But the weather has been epically crap.
But hey ho worst is done, just rear diff to go, and apparently its a LOT easier.
Just wish I`d had a garage to use as it would have been done weeks ago, instead of on axle stands and doing everything on my own, not had any help for anything, apart from my dog keeping me company by sleeping and farting under the car lol.

Last edited by Jimbob; 03 May 2012 at 01:10 AM.
Old 03 May 2012, 05:32 PM
  #82  
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Diff isn't too bad a job, just get the back end up as high as you can.
It can be done without taking the wheels off or popping the lower joints.
The two top bolts on the back of the diff going through the cross member, it's best to remove the studs. Makes it alot easier to drop the diff.
Old 03 May 2012, 05:47 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by mike h
Diff isn't too bad a job, just get the back end up as high as you can.
It can be done without taking the wheels off or popping the lower joints.
The two top bolts on the back of the diff going through the cross member, it's best to remove the studs. Makes it alot easier to drop the diff.
Well will have a go tomorrow if the weather isn`t too bad, as I need to do a few other things this evening.
Old 04 May 2012, 07:15 PM
  #84  
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Here she is at the moment, will make a start tomorrow as I`m not feeling the greatest as I got a cold/Man-Flu!!













Old 04 May 2012, 08:21 PM
  #85  
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Fair play buddy your getting on with this project nicely, bet you be glad when its finished and you can get out in her and enjoy it..
Old 04 May 2012, 09:18 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Jimbob
My "helper".


not had any help for anything, apart from my dog keeping me company by sleeping and farting under the car lol.
Well he is trying to keep you warm by heating up the air under the car, but keep him off the Pedigree Chum as all my dogs had farts like the devil himself after a bowl of that stuff. It smells bad enough in the tin let alone when it comes out the other end of the dog.
Old 04 May 2012, 09:49 PM
  #87  
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Ready for monday JB?
Old 04 May 2012, 10:02 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Black-Hawk
Ready for monday JB?
Nope Scooby NOT there!!

I`M SO FCUKED OFF IT`S UNFCUKING REAL!!

Dropped the old diff out.


Finally figured out how to get the new one in place.

Passenger side shaft goes in no problem.

Drivers side will not go fully in, seems strange so I dropped it down again and looked into the diff. The one coming off had a hole all the way through, this "new" one has a bloody bar. So despite assurances that the diff is correct, and that my drive-shafts WILL fit it, its come to NOTHING as they don`t.

I`m so tamping its unreal, and I so want to put a thread up slagging off the "company" that sold it to me. After sending me the wrong box and no MAP sensor, to not sending a replacement for 2-3 weeks, only to have the old box collected a MONTH after it was wrong, only for the sodding diff to be different despite being told "Your standard driveshafts will fit", and no MAP sensor STILL.

2nd of APRIL I paid for the bits!!


Anyways anyone know what diff this is off, and what shafts are needed. I`ve always seen difs with holes through being LSD, and with bars through being open?? So if this is off a Sport I don`t know, I`m SOOOOOOOOO pished off right now I could kill someone!!

Old.





New.




Old 04 May 2012, 10:11 PM
  #89  
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Right I`m off out for a bit.
As I`m likely to do or say something I`ll regret, as I`m still bouncing here.
Old 05 May 2012, 11:23 AM
  #90  
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Right. Here goes. If I remove the rear diff's and change the crown gear over, then install theol diff with "new" crown gear am I asking for trouble, or will it work? Basically it would be the only way I'll be able to get my car working any time soon. As I'm supposed to have matching drive shafts coming but my luck would be they don't fit my hub! Has anyone done this and if so what problems could I be creating?


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