Amateur Budget 2.1 Stroker Project
14 July 2015, 07:35 PM
#691
Not 100%. I'm fairly sure the cat in the downpipe was causing the racket as when the spare engine went in I fitted the decat and all was fine.
I needed to take a break from it all for a while, and garaged the car at the end of last year to keep on top of it rusting away. Instead of running up the spare engine weekly I thought it best to run up the 2.1 regularly.
I'm fairly convinced if it was the cat that was causing the racket then it was down to Tesco momentum, as that was all that I did differently in 1200 miles.
But it's running, just got a very high Idle issue I need to sort before I can run it up to temp and see how it all is then.
I needed to take a break from it all for a while, and garaged the car at the end of last year to keep on top of it rusting away. Instead of running up the spare engine weekly I thought it best to run up the 2.1 regularly.
I'm fairly convinced if it was the cat that was causing the racket then it was down to Tesco momentum, as that was all that I did differently in 1200 miles.
But it's running, just got a very high Idle issue I need to sort before I can run it up to temp and see how it all is then.
Glad to see it is running again
14 July 2015, 10:02 PM
#692
Amateur Budget 2.1 Stroker Project
Cheers,
You're probably right but I won't be risking it again. One of the main reasons I've never used Tesco 99 is the pumps at my local one aren't spaced wide enough when 2 cars are filling up that you can get round them, which means you're stuck until the idiot in front stops faffing about.
You're probably right but I won't be risking it again. One of the main reasons I've never used Tesco 99 is the pumps at my local one aren't spaced wide enough when 2 cars are filling up that you can get round them, which means you're stuck until the idiot in front stops faffing about.
27 September 2015, 08:14 PM
#695
I can't be arsed lol. Anyway it's back in, running fine and getting up to temp no probs. Slight oil leak after boost funnily enough from the r/h rocker cover after making an effort to refit and reseal the l/h gasket (as it leaked previously)
I'll look at getting it back on the road around April time.
I'll look at getting it back on the road around April time.
12 January 2016, 06:28 PM
#697
Not much to report. I'm just running it up every so often to keep it alive and running it up a closed street to keep the brakes alive etc.
The Subaru scene IMO seems to be getting worse. I treat this project thread like a diary to read back on and the important thing to me at the moment is the internal fighting, bitching, ignoring and slandering other Subaru owners is worse than I've known it.
I could go into a lot more detail but the only saving grace is that there are some utterly fantastic, helpful and genuine people out there.
Unfortunately there are those that haven't got a good word to say about anybody and tend to **** stir in closed off groups turning fellow owners against someone they haven't got the ***** to confront.
I've logged on for the first time in a few weeks to see the usual bitching and sniping between members. And the general consensus seems to be that a lot of old time members just don't want to log in anymore.
Very sad to see, considering we all have the same interest.
Anyway, goal is to have the car back on the road for summer.
The Subaru scene IMO seems to be getting worse. I treat this project thread like a diary to read back on and the important thing to me at the moment is the internal fighting, bitching, ignoring and slandering other Subaru owners is worse than I've known it.
I could go into a lot more detail but the only saving grace is that there are some utterly fantastic, helpful and genuine people out there.
Unfortunately there are those that haven't got a good word to say about anybody and tend to **** stir in closed off groups turning fellow owners against someone they haven't got the ***** to confront.
I've logged on for the first time in a few weeks to see the usual bitching and sniping between members. And the general consensus seems to be that a lot of old time members just don't want to log in anymore.
Very sad to see, considering we all have the same interest.
Anyway, goal is to have the car back on the road for summer.
12 January 2016, 06:48 PM
#698
Next on the agenda would be phase 2 injectors reflowed to 740cc, brembo fronts and a 400bhp capable turbo. I'd always been under the impression a 20g although laggy would do the trick but have since read they can't get to the magic 400.
I may as well switch to braided hoses and billet fuel rails whilst doing the turbo/injectors. That stage will cost well over a grand, and remap even more, so likely brembos first as I'm still up to my eyeballs in debt (not from the car, the wife lol).
I may as well switch to braided hoses and billet fuel rails whilst doing the turbo/injectors. That stage will cost well over a grand, and remap even more, so likely brembos first as I'm still up to my eyeballs in debt (not from the car, the wife lol).
12 January 2016, 07:31 PM
#700
12 January 2016, 07:56 PM
#702
Don't as performance do the fitting kits for Ph1 - 2 injectors and vice versa?
12 January 2016, 09:01 PM
#704
Going by the advice given on the other thread I'd be better off getting phase 2 yellows, have them flowed to 740 or above, get an adaptor kit and fit. From what's been said straight forward reds don't fit the connectors from the manifold loom properly.
Aesthetically I'd like the parrallel lines, billet rails as well as the fact my fuel lines are slightly frayed from being on and off quite often 😀. Eventually I'd like a minimalistic bay and the fuel lines would add to that.
Alloys are 17" innovit Rays, they'd eventually go anyway. I'm not sure if they'd fit, I'd probably trial fit the brembos before selling the 4 pots on.
I've done a lot of ****ing about over the last few years. Having to bodge to keep it on the road as it was my daily, in the end I burnt myself out mentally. I'd rather now get each stage finished as I want it. So turbo/lines/rails and injectors then map would finish the engine stage, before I then spend 10 years saving for the bodywork stage 😀.
I often forget about scoobynet as I've had a long break, God knows I need it. So if anyone wants to get hold of me, you know where to find me 😜.
Aesthetically I'd like the parrallel lines, billet rails as well as the fact my fuel lines are slightly frayed from being on and off quite often 😀. Eventually I'd like a minimalistic bay and the fuel lines would add to that.
Alloys are 17" innovit Rays, they'd eventually go anyway. I'm not sure if they'd fit, I'd probably trial fit the brembos before selling the 4 pots on.
I've done a lot of ****ing about over the last few years. Having to bodge to keep it on the road as it was my daily, in the end I burnt myself out mentally. I'd rather now get each stage finished as I want it. So turbo/lines/rails and injectors then map would finish the engine stage, before I then spend 10 years saving for the bodywork stage 😀.
I often forget about scoobynet as I've had a long break, God knows I need it. So if anyone wants to get hold of me, you know where to find me 😜.
Last edited by Kwik; 12 January 2016 at 09:03 PM.
12 January 2016, 09:53 PM
#705
Why don't you look out for some 650cc plus ph2 injectors off FB selling pages (I've seen a few in past go up for cheaper than the reflow fee) and then just buy fitting kit.
It would be ideal to get parallel set up as then each cylinder has equal amount of fuel as some go wrong because of not enough fuel in each cylinder iirc it's cylinder 3 that gets fuel last?
I don't think Them Ray's will clear Brembos FYI. (Are they innovoit copies of Ray's te37 style?)
It would be ideal to get parallel set up as then each cylinder has equal amount of fuel as some go wrong because of not enough fuel in each cylinder iirc it's cylinder 3 that gets fuel last?
I don't think Them Ray's will clear Brembos FYI. (Are they innovoit copies of Ray's te37 style?)
Last edited by bustaMOVEs; 12 January 2016 at 09:55 PM.
13 January 2016, 04:18 PM
#706
650 won't get me to my target of 400 (although that'd only be on the first map, the second would be a more realistic 350 or so).
Even if I did go that way, fitting kit and then have them cleaned I'd be looking at a fair chunk of what phase 2 reflowed (and cleaned) yellows/fitting kit/rails etc would be.
I'd probably refurb the Brembos anyway, and if they didn't fit its no biggy as they wouldn't be nessasary until its had the turbo/injectors/remap and got decent power.
I don't particularly like the innovits (I think they are copies) anyway, and if the eventual idea is to go widebody I'd have to get some wide-*** wheels. I'd need to work out how wide the arches will be and start looking at options to fill the arches and clear Brembos. I'm a fan of Milleniums, but have no idea if Brembos fit behind them or how wide they go up to. I'd also like to stick with 17's rather than jump up to 18's.
Even if I did go that way, fitting kit and then have them cleaned I'd be looking at a fair chunk of what phase 2 reflowed (and cleaned) yellows/fitting kit/rails etc would be.
I'd probably refurb the Brembos anyway, and if they didn't fit its no biggy as they wouldn't be nessasary until its had the turbo/injectors/remap and got decent power.
I don't particularly like the innovits (I think they are copies) anyway, and if the eventual idea is to go widebody I'd have to get some wide-*** wheels. I'd need to work out how wide the arches will be and start looking at options to fill the arches and clear Brembos. I'm a fan of Milleniums, but have no idea if Brembos fit behind them or how wide they go up to. I'd also like to stick with 17's rather than jump up to 18's.
13 January 2016, 04:32 PM
#707
650cc will easily do 400+, and I meant look for 650 and onwards.
Understand if you want them cleaned may aswell just get em reflowed then, depends on condition/make on what you buy.
I've got nismo 740cc which will do 500hp or just over.
The revs millennium will clear Brembos in 17s and I think I know someone who might be selling them soon with tyres for about 450-500.
Understand if you want them cleaned may aswell just get em reflowed then, depends on condition/make on what you buy.
I've got nismo 740cc which will do 500hp or just over.
The revs millennium will clear Brembos in 17s and I think I know someone who might be selling them soon with tyres for about 450-500.
13 January 2016, 05:45 PM
#708
That's a good price. There's no point me getting alloys until I know how wide they'd have to be to fill wide body kitted arches, and I doubt anyone would have second hand ones for sale at that width.
Lots of pieces of the puzzle that won't fit until the next piece is acquired lol.
If you know of anyone with brembo fronts with discs for around the £400 mark lmk 😀.
Lots of pieces of the puzzle that won't fit until the next piece is acquired lol.
If you know of anyone with brembo fronts with discs for around the £400 mark lmk 😀.
13 January 2016, 09:20 PM
#710
Unmapped 12.4s @ 105
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You don't need billet rails. Buy a set of standard rails for you car, and get them converted to -6/8 fittings, then buy the parts to construct the parallel fuel lines. You'll need a FuelLab or similar reg though, 3 port.
You don't even need Gucci fittings, you can just use push on fittings. Saves on cost.
I'd be wary on so called re-flowed injectors, can't say for certain, but, I think the common practice is to just cut the caps off.
17" Milleniums clear Brembo's.
You don't even need Gucci fittings, you can just use push on fittings. Saves on cost.
I'd be wary on so called re-flowed injectors, can't say for certain, but, I think the common practice is to just cut the caps off.
17" Milleniums clear Brembo's.
14 January 2016, 04:25 PM
#712
After all these years you should know by now I don't tend to do straight forward things....
They may not be 100% required but I'd rather not get everything together and then get to the mapping stage and have anything restricting the completion of the engine and having to start pulling parts here and there. We are talking about 18yr old fuel rails here. The engine will be pulled out again at some point and the bay cleaned up, sprayed and made as minimalistic as I can with my very limited skill.
Let me know if you see any more busta, it's a box to tick in progress. I should have the money together pretty soon.
Appreciate all the help and advice though people. I'm starting to get a little motivated again.
They may not be 100% required but I'd rather not get everything together and then get to the mapping stage and have anything restricting the completion of the engine and having to start pulling parts here and there. We are talking about 18yr old fuel rails here. The engine will be pulled out again at some point and the bay cleaned up, sprayed and made as minimalistic as I can with my very limited skill.
Let me know if you see any more busta, it's a box to tick in progress. I should have the money together pretty soon.
Appreciate all the help and advice though people. I'm starting to get a little motivated again.
14 January 2016, 04:29 PM
#713
They look reasonable busta, I've sent a request to join that group.
Perhaps I'm a little paranoid but seeing that chap's (love him or hate him) type r on fire after a fuel leak makes me hesitant to go the cheap route with fuel lines etc.
Perhaps I'm a little paranoid but seeing that chap's (love him or hate him) type r on fire after a fuel leak makes me hesitant to go the cheap route with fuel lines etc.
14 January 2016, 05:31 PM
#714
Lol, that fire was not a fuel leak afaik but a ps pipe bursting.
Tbh, if your doing a build, may aswell do it proper, I said I was going to do a cheap build, but as time went on, I just went all out and just did everything for peace of mind, if my block blows up then it's just a case of a forged block and that's it but I've spent about close to 10k now on car
.
The only thing with that picture I put up is, not sure where rails have come out of, so need to make sure it goes into your manifold as not sure if stock rails are all same in classics
Tbh, if your doing a build, may aswell do it proper, I said I was going to do a cheap build, but as time went on, I just went all out and just did everything for peace of mind, if my block blows up then it's just a case of a forged block and that's it but I've spent about close to 10k now on car
.The only thing with that picture I put up is, not sure where rails have come out of, so need to make sure it goes into your manifold as not sure if stock rails are all same in classics
14 January 2016, 06:56 PM
#715
Unmapped 12.4s @ 105
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I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. They've been painted with the injectors in place by the looks of it.
Besides, if you bought them, you'd only be pulling the injectors and sending them for flow testing.
Fuel rails on my car are 22yrs old this year, they are fine. All you are doing is over complicating things.
If you are wanting to spend, needlessly IMO, you can get Gucci fittings here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/torques_uk...p2047675.l2559
Alyn @ AS Performance carries the full range of Goodridge fittings also.
Just to add, the only reason I'm suggesting using push on fittings, is to try and save you money so you can get the car running and useable reliably. When you've got that, it's just a case of swapping a few fittings and fuel lines.
Besides, if you bought them, you'd only be pulling the injectors and sending them for flow testing.
Fuel rails on my car are 22yrs old this year, they are fine. All you are doing is over complicating things.
If you are wanting to spend, needlessly IMO, you can get Gucci fittings here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/torques_uk...p2047675.l2559
Alyn @ AS Performance carries the full range of Goodridge fittings also.
Just to add, the only reason I'm suggesting using push on fittings, is to try and save you money so you can get the car running and useable reliably. When you've got that, it's just a case of swapping a few fittings and fuel lines.
14 January 2016, 07:32 PM
#716
Torques are well expensive, other cheaper sellers out there.
Kwik, just get billet rails and braided lines with parallel set up, looks so much better in engine bay.
I went for the JAWerehouse rails as they have good reviews on the evo forums and bought fittings seperatly.
Once done, you don't need to look back IMO.
But ultimately it's upto you which way you go.
Kwik, just get billet rails and braided lines with parallel set up, looks so much better in engine bay.
I went for the JAWerehouse rails as they have good reviews on the evo forums and bought fittings seperatly.
Once done, you don't need to look back IMO.
But ultimately it's upto you which way you go.
14 January 2016, 09:17 PM
#720
Sorry Micky I have to agree with busta. I've cut so many corners and rushed so many aspects of this project I was constantly working on the thing just to get it to work the next day.
Now there's no need to rush. I'll probably use it this summer without changing anything, and the daily's there if needed.
And realistically there isn't a project that didn't have something that wasn't needed.
Now there's no need to rush. I'll probably use it this summer without changing anything, and the daily's there if needed.
And realistically there isn't a project that didn't have something that wasn't needed.