mantazini

iTrader: (25)

So got these in the end...will have to put them in and correct the geometry....And then i can comment on the changes ...

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

Snap!!

Just bought the same ones, mine won't be on for a while yet so let us know how they feel once fitted.

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

What make are those ones guys?

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

They are Hardrace, which were purchased through apex performance.

http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...oducts_id=1861

rickya

iTrader: (18)

Bought mine last year, fitted last week and alignment tmrw. But won't be able to comment to difference as I have changed almost every other suspension part at the same time! Though I did not get the black cone fitting cap, had to reuse from old std ball joints.But they definitely do raise the ball joint mounting point.

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

Got it fitted eventualy... Havent done the geometry yet, but it made the car less nervous on the bumps , tramlining gone as well... Will have to put the rear ARB on medium to see if that helps even more .... ATM i'd say it's a worth doing mod if your car is lowered... It's the mod that you can actually feel phisicaly , like the rear ARB and such..


There was only one problem, taking the metal tops that had to be put on the Hardrace onces, so we sorted it in that kind of way...

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

be usesful seeing a pic with wheels loaded (as above, so a before & after)

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

When you say "The metal tops" are you talking about the washers that were on top, or something else? Isn't very obvious from your pic what additional pieces needed to be moved across.

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

If you can call them washers, their locating cones i've been told. They only come on the aluminium wishbones and are made of steel. As wrx dont have aluminium wishbones the kit was made as for both so you have to re use them as i understand that .

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

Flippin 'eck dude, I'd probably have just bought new ones
Good job there

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

I'd probably would have bought new as well, but didn't new that their there , so had to take them off the old ones.

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

Well I went for the Whiteline kit in the end as Indigo-GT have a group buy offer on the revised roll centre correction kit (that fixes the issue with the ball joints), and a set of heavy duty front drop links (the ones with dust boots).
Should turn up tomorrow.

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

Good stuff... Please take a pic when fitted, would be interesting to compare with Hard race stuff... I took a pic of mine how it sits now...

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

That looks better, arms just pointing down now - only just mind. Those Eibachs lowering things.

How are you finding the new tyres? Are they RE070's?

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

Yes their re070s , TBH i didnt have a chance to test the properly, being a dumb bum , i didnt put them on on the dry half of the day as 2nd part it was pissing down the rain.... I've put them on eventualy when it was really wet , but they were not to bad, i was scared by people that they are bad in the kind of conditions but actualy were ok.... I;m not sure what i could compare them to as i've never had same spec tyre before except R888 but thats another story... I guess AD08s would be better cause of design , their much newer than re070s and supouse to be good alrounder.... I got thses for a bargain price and glad i did. Its one of the main "mod" to cars handling , it opened my eyes and i;m not going back to any of them falkens, toyos etc...
The only downside is that they induce the tramlining cause of the stiff sidewalls, but it's not bothering me to much as i'm not driving it everyday, long journeys...
Eibach springs..... Oh well, definately not best on a track but ok for normal/fast road driving...Theres not alot of choice , thats the only reason i'm keeping them. My standart springs are tired but probably would handle not much worse than Eibachs, they felt stiffer also... But the gap between the arches is horendeous ....Keeping on browsing for options, maybe i'll find something thats suitable soon...

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

And this is how soft they are

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

^^ Well, I've been looking at your pic above and really, it doesn't look too bad. In fact, the outside wheel & tyre looks fine. The camber seems to be holding and the tyre isn't folding under itself. If the car is a pure track toy then yes a little more roll resistance might be OK, but if it's for road/track, then I would be happy

Compare yours to my JDM 370 at tight & twisty Anglesey. That car was really weight handicapped there. The super soft walled Toyo's didn't help. Was running 22/24 arb's which was awesome for road

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

The pic above as i found out was on RE070s , thats why the sidewall stayed in tact there another pic..


And heres the pic with Pirellis....it wasnt sharp corner as above but even then they werent excellent....

4evernewbie

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I feel an answer wasn't really given
So which is the best kit to get?
Options are;
A) Whiteline
B) Apex
C) Superpro
Are the track rod ends required or not?
WhiteLine don't have a very good reliability reputation at the moment according to a few forums so I think I'm gonna steer () clear of them.
Any advice guys?
BTW I'm running a V5 Type R, WL ALK, 22mm rear ARB (soon to fit front 22mm ARB), WL droplinks F&R and Tein Superstreets with a drop of ABOUT 25-30mm and I'm getting bump steer

Many thanks,
Paul.

Dan-

also interested in this, got a trackday in july and want my car to handle and perform perfectly, lowered a fair bit with 24mm rear antiroll, solid drop links, Bc coil overs on hardest compression, Toyo R888, Alk and fast road alignment

which bump steer kit is best to go for?

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Just jumping on the bandwagon. I'm still not 100% comfortable with the handling of my Scoob despite throwing a fair few "go-to" parts at it.

So far on my widetrack I've got:

Refurbed (grease nipple) OEM shocks
Prodrive red springs
Whiteline ALK
CDF Front and Rear ARBs
CDF Solid Droplinks

I can't quite put my finger on exactly what my problem is. I don't push hard enough on the road to get under or oversteer, but I've had it twitch on me a few times when accelerating through a bend... as if the car just becomes unsettled as the weight is shifting down onto one side.

I'm hoping to get on track in a controlled environment where I can push it into a bit of under/oversteer (somewhere with a lot of run off!) and do some proper testing to see if I can get some consistent results.

As far as the roll centre mod, it's probably fair to say my car isn't particularly low on the prodrive springs and my arms are sat pretty much horizontal when the car is sat... so I'm not sure if this upgrade will be my "golden goose", but I'd be interested to hear opinions.

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

Ok , not sure if that helps , but what i've noticed since the mod. I'd suggest getting the Super Pro kit , the ball joints and rods as it actually might be the case of steering rack still not aligning properly if fitting just extended ball joints..
Using re070s the car still had a little bump steer , but changing to Vredies it eased up a bit, so i decided to get the track rod ends to feel the difference and guess what BTW its hard race stuff.. The rods separately cost 120 quid ,IMHO i dont think their kit is better than Super Pro kit which consists of both... So for 120-150 not sure what it costs now i'd get Super Pro kit. Talking about whitleline , nothing is forever , and "good quality" things breaks too, it so much matters on the environment it has been used in etc etc..... Until it wasn't compared to different companies in the same conditions you cant really judge , just my 2 p worth

These are Work emotions CR kai forged wheels.... Does it make them **** quality , i don't think so, it's all about the circumstances...

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

It's possible you may not be getting full travel in your roll & damper travel combined - in other words running out of travel and 'tripodding' - outside rear wheel going light... the cause? possibly the CDF DL's.

You haven't changed things too much from std. The blue Prodrive springs don't over lower, the ALK will help, and a little more stiffening is a good thing (what dia bars have you fitted?)

See link here

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Bonesetter, interesting comments in the link. I'll be honest, my CDF bushes seem to have plenty of movement when I jack the car up and the suspension unloads - not sure if they've changed their design or whether I'm just understanding the post incorrectly.

My Prodrive springs are red, not that that matters - I think the WRX ones were blue?

I've got the 24mm rear and 22mm front ARBs with the front set on "hard" and the rear set on "soft":



Car was aligned by a specialist, but thinking that perhaps a second opinion elsewhere might be worthwhile. I've got no idea what settings they used tbh.

Edit: Also got camber bolts on the rear.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Maybe swap the settings to give more control to the rear than the front?

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Is there an idiots guide as to what settings will have what impact when it comes to front/rear ARBs? I'll happily do some experimenting, but would like to know the theory behind it before I begin - to make sure placebo isn't creeping in!

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

The CDF dl's are the same as they have always been with the flat headed 'top hat' bushings. You may think they have a fair amount of movement, but respectfully, what have you compared it to?

24/22 is my favourite combo for new age & classic cars (yours is a new age, right?) and works brilliantly

Does the rear bar have 2 or 3 settings? If it has 3 and yours on the hardest (nearest bar) I would say you may have a little too much roll correction. I've always settled on the middle setting (Whiteline bar).

Thing is, swapping holes is a very quick job and easy to see the differences. The differences are usually quite big with rarb stiffness changes. My Type R will go from understeer to nice & neutral, swapping from hard to middle rear

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Thanks again Bonesetter, I can't compare my links to other aftermarket ones - but the angle which the connection is at has got a fair range, compared to my OEM ones (though obviously not as much).

My Front ARB has two settings, and it's on the hardest of those. The rear has three settings and it's on the softest of those.

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

Ah, the softest. Yeah I've always found to give the car neutral balance and the amount of roll resistance I like, the front needs to be on hard, and the rear in the middle

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

I'll try out the rear on the middle at the weekend, it can't hurt

Though if I end up in a bush, I'm blaming you