Loose Pulley with video!
#32
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We probably build more Subaru engines that anyone in the country, standard and modified. ?
We use our skills to do them up at somewhere between 123 & 128 Ft lbs [ can't remember exactly ] ?
torque to 93-103 nm thats the setting for a 1996. fact thats my orginal qoute and i stand by that if i want to use tread lock thats my choice .. i dont build loads of engines but the whole 2 that i have re done are still ok with thread lock.... lol
We use our skills to do them up at somewhere between 123 & 128 Ft lbs [ can't remember exactly ] ?
torque to 93-103 nm thats the setting for a 1996. fact thats my orginal qoute and i stand by that if i want to use tread lock thats my choice .. i dont build loads of engines but the whole 2 that i have re done are still ok with thread lock.... lol
But wait 'til you try to get them apart
In my hurry I didn't talk to the engineers here about the exact torque figure 'cos it wasn't necessary the point was that the FT in foot pounds stands for FU**KIN' TIGHT.
Good luck all, David
#33
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Ok, so where i'm at -at the moment.
Engine is stripped down to the timing belt stage.
my new torque wrench is due to be delivered tomorrow as are the lightweight crank & pas pulleys so just waiting for woodruff key and crank bolt.
I've decided against changing the belt and toothed pullies as the car was serviced at RCM on 09/09 and was given a new kevlar belt, cover seals, tensioner, crank oil seal and full service.
So now my question to you guys... am i right in thinking that, to change the key - i should be able to get the engine TDC clamp the belt onto all four cam pulleys and remove one of the idlers to get slack on belt to remove so i can get the crank pulley off? thus not putting the timing out and solong as i replace the pulley the way i removed it all should be well?
PS this should either be stickied as a "numb nuts guide to changing woodruff key" or "how NOT to change woodruff key" lol
Aaron
Engine is stripped down to the timing belt stage.
my new torque wrench is due to be delivered tomorrow as are the lightweight crank & pas pulleys so just waiting for woodruff key and crank bolt.
I've decided against changing the belt and toothed pullies as the car was serviced at RCM on 09/09 and was given a new kevlar belt, cover seals, tensioner, crank oil seal and full service.
So now my question to you guys... am i right in thinking that, to change the key - i should be able to get the engine TDC clamp the belt onto all four cam pulleys and remove one of the idlers to get slack on belt to remove so i can get the crank pulley off? thus not putting the timing out and solong as i replace the pulley the way i removed it all should be well?
PS this should either be stickied as a "numb nuts guide to changing woodruff key" or "how NOT to change woodruff key" lol
Aaron
#34
I can only hope that your crank timing belt pulley was not like mine. It was rusted onto the crank and incredibly hard to get off. I fashioned my own pulley puller thingamabob - it certainly wasn't just going to slide off. You may off course be able to replace the woodruff key without having to take the pulley off, but the fact that your engine survived with a broken woodruff key suggests that your pulley will also be stuck fast on the crank. Good luck!
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Not a hope in hell of getting the key out from inside the gear.
Aaron, your plan works. BUT you'll need to be clamped tight on the passenger side pulleys with your cam belt gripper as the position of that side cams at TDC means that they rotate apart as soon as the belt is relaxed.
Generally though, providing you set it at TDC and just pop the belt off and sort out the gear / key etc., there is no reason why it won't all just realign.
Just be very careful not to damage the trigger on the back of the crank gear whilst getting it off and if you do damage it DO NOT assume that it looks OK - cos it won't be.
Good Luck David
Aaron, your plan works. BUT you'll need to be clamped tight on the passenger side pulleys with your cam belt gripper as the position of that side cams at TDC means that they rotate apart as soon as the belt is relaxed.
Generally though, providing you set it at TDC and just pop the belt off and sort out the gear / key etc., there is no reason why it won't all just realign.
Just be very careful not to damage the trigger on the back of the crank gear whilst getting it off and if you do damage it DO NOT assume that it looks OK - cos it won't be.
Good Luck David
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