can an induction filter be too big????
08 August 2011, 12:03 AM
#31
RCM replacement cost around £60-£70,RCM said is special designed by RCM made by K&N,you can try buy one from K&N,i've tried buy one similar but K&N said these only do for RCM
With your suggested air filter,will need first fit and mapped and you will see what will be,because i never tried this shape on car,its just guessing game now.
As i said before everybody using same shape due are proven,and many people don't like tested unproven things...
Jura
08 August 2011, 01:08 PM
#32
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RCM is mostly used with big success like by tuners and customers with big power cars.Its something like icon in Air filter here in UK...
RCM replacement cost around £60-£70,RCM said is special designed by RCM made by K&N,you can try buy one from K&N,i've tried buy one similar but K&N said these only do for RCM
With your suggested air filter,will need first fit and mapped and you will see what will be,because i never tried this shape on car,its just guessing game now.
As i said before everybody using same shape due are proven,and many people don't like tested unproven things...
Jura
RCM replacement cost around £60-£70,RCM said is special designed by RCM made by K&N,you can try buy one from K&N,i've tried buy one similar but K&N said these only do for RCM
With your suggested air filter,will need first fit and mapped and you will see what will be,because i never tried this shape on car,its just guessing game now.
As i said before everybody using same shape due are proven,and many people don't like tested unproven things...
Jura
thanks jura,im going to speak to rcm and see what can be done.
08 August 2011, 01:28 PM
#35
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thinking this is probably the way to go now.
08 August 2011, 01:33 PM
#36
i spoke to rcm and they can probably supply me the cone and trumpet for a good price,all i will have to do is get my brother to make an adaptor plate and will leave the maf and oe intake where it is,this filter will be fine even at 500bhp and will cost only a fraction more of the original plan.
thinking this is probably the way to go now.
thinking this is probably the way to go now.
Jura
08 August 2011, 02:53 PM
#38
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the induction kit consists of a couple parts which add huge cost to the filter.
im going to see if my brother can make the required parts and make my own kit to suit the rcm cone.
im going to see if my brother can make the required parts and make my own kit to suit the rcm cone.
08 August 2011, 11:41 PM
#41
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have had a chat with rcm,my brother is confident he can make a custom adaptor/trumpet,will be able to leave the oe pipe in place and fit an rcm induction kit but without spending silly £££s.
very handy having a brother that is a fully skilled welder/fabricator for stainless steel and alluminium.
he should be able to determine by tommorow wether there are any complication but i have every faith in him
once its all done and we have fitted the fmic/induction and cold feed ill post up some pics.
very handy having a brother that is a fully skilled welder/fabricator for stainless steel and alluminium.
he should be able to determine by tommorow wether there are any complication but i have every faith in him
once its all done and we have fitted the fmic/induction and cold feed ill post up some pics.
09 August 2011, 08:34 AM
#42
have had a chat with rcm,my brother is confident he can make a custom adaptor/trumpet,will be able to leave the oe pipe in place and fit an rcm induction kit but without spending silly £££s.
very handy having a brother that is a fully skilled welder/fabricator for stainless steel and alluminium.
he should be able to determine by tommorow wether there are any complication but i have every faith in him
once its all done and we have fitted the fmic/induction and cold feed ill post up some pics.
very handy having a brother that is a fully skilled welder/fabricator for stainless steel and alluminium.
he should be able to determine by tommorow wether there are any complication but i have every faith in him
once its all done and we have fitted the fmic/induction and cold feed ill post up some pics.
09 August 2011, 09:04 AM
#43
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Can i ask, when you say the car needs be re-mapped after fitting induction kit ect. Do you need to do it straight away or can you run car without? Reason i ask is i got a k&n typhoon kit for my wrx and i want to fit it but wait until my exhaust system done too before i get it mapped, would that be ok? What will happen if i fit k&n without map?
09 August 2011, 10:11 AM
#44
Can i ask, when you say the car needs be re-mapped after fitting induction kit ect. Do you need to do it straight away or can you run car without? Reason i ask is i got a k&n typhoon kit for my wrx and i want to fit it but wait until my exhaust system done too before i get it mapped, would that be ok? What will happen if i fit k&n without map?
JohnD
09 August 2011, 02:08 PM
#45
The reason for running a large filter is so that you have a big filtration surface area. This serves two purposes.
1) Rather obvious, it takes longer to clog up so you clean less frequently or it is longer before the clogging becomes restrictive.
2) The objective is to fit a filter that is large enough to result in minimal depression or vacum in the inlet tract. The impellor on the turbo has to act against any depression which can be signifigant at high load/power with a small fiter and eliminating this sucking improves performance.
Equally important is smooth air flow into the inlet tract. This is especially important when running a MAF Sensor. This is the reason for using an aluminium trumpet.
If you alter your induction you will alter the way in which the air is presented to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Do a really effective improvement, even without a MAF Sensor and the air volume could increase noticably. This could have a very signifigant effect on AFRs and if you run weak you could nip a piston in the bore or induce DET, neither of wqhich are good things and could cost you an engine.
As John says above, keep it off boost until remapped.
Lastly, if you are building an air box or induction system, remember aluminium is a very good heat conductor and heat at the filter is to be avoided. Look at thermally insulating surfaces exposed to heat. Carbon fibre is also easy to work with, has better insulation properties but still needs heat insulation.
1) Rather obvious, it takes longer to clog up so you clean less frequently or it is longer before the clogging becomes restrictive.
2) The objective is to fit a filter that is large enough to result in minimal depression or vacum in the inlet tract. The impellor on the turbo has to act against any depression which can be signifigant at high load/power with a small fiter and eliminating this sucking improves performance.
Equally important is smooth air flow into the inlet tract. This is especially important when running a MAF Sensor. This is the reason for using an aluminium trumpet.
If you alter your induction you will alter the way in which the air is presented to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Do a really effective improvement, even without a MAF Sensor and the air volume could increase noticably. This could have a very signifigant effect on AFRs and if you run weak you could nip a piston in the bore or induce DET, neither of wqhich are good things and could cost you an engine.
As John says above, keep it off boost until remapped.
Lastly, if you are building an air box or induction system, remember aluminium is a very good heat conductor and heat at the filter is to be avoided. Look at thermally insulating surfaces exposed to heat. Carbon fibre is also easy to work with, has better insulation properties but still needs heat insulation.
09 August 2011, 03:04 PM
#46
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The reason for running a large filter is so that you have a big filtration surface area. This serves two purposes.
1) Rather obvious, it takes longer to clog up so you clean less frequently or it is longer before the clogging becomes restrictive.
2) The objective is to fit a filter that is large enough to result in minimal depression or vacum in the inlet tract. The impellor on the turbo has to act against any depression which can be signifigant at high load/power with a small fiter and eliminating this sucking improves performance.
Equally important is smooth air flow into the inlet tract. This is especially important when running a MAF Sensor. This is the reason for using an aluminium trumpet.
If you alter your induction you will alter the way in which the air is presented to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Do a really effective improvement, even without a MAF Sensor and the air volume could increase noticably. This could have a very signifigant effect on AFRs and if you run weak you could nip a piston in the bore or induce DET, neither of wqhich are good things and could cost you an engine.
As John says above, keep it off boost until remapped.
Lastly, if you are building an air box or induction system, remember aluminium is a very good heat conductor and heat at the filter is to be avoided. Look at thermally insulating surfaces exposed to heat. Carbon fibre is also easy to work with, has better insulation properties but still needs heat insulation.
1) Rather obvious, it takes longer to clog up so you clean less frequently or it is longer before the clogging becomes restrictive.
2) The objective is to fit a filter that is large enough to result in minimal depression or vacum in the inlet tract. The impellor on the turbo has to act against any depression which can be signifigant at high load/power with a small fiter and eliminating this sucking improves performance.
Equally important is smooth air flow into the inlet tract. This is especially important when running a MAF Sensor. This is the reason for using an aluminium trumpet.
If you alter your induction you will alter the way in which the air is presented to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Do a really effective improvement, even without a MAF Sensor and the air volume could increase noticably. This could have a very signifigant effect on AFRs and if you run weak you could nip a piston in the bore or induce DET, neither of wqhich are good things and could cost you an engine.
As John says above, keep it off boost until remapped.
Lastly, if you are building an air box or induction system, remember aluminium is a very good heat conductor and heat at the filter is to be avoided. Look at thermally insulating surfaces exposed to heat. Carbon fibre is also easy to work with, has better insulation properties but still needs heat insulation.
as regards to a "partition" in the engine bay,we were considering using stainless steel,and using it more like a heat shield to keep the hot air away from filter rather than an enclosed area,any thoughts?
thanks.
09 August 2011, 08:36 PM
#47
^ any kind of metal is the perfect conductor of heat from the engine into your precious space...
Better off using carbon fibre, or something a boat builder told me, a heat protective liner used in marine cooking areas, you can attach this to the metal separator
Better off using carbon fibre, or something a boat builder told me, a heat protective liner used in marine cooking areas, you can attach this to the metal separator
09 August 2011, 09:19 PM
#50
My heat barrier is ally but completely wrapped in this stuff 
I doesn't get hot
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
I doesn't get hot
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
Not sure if it's shuttle re-entry proof mind
09 August 2011, 09:35 PM
#51
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My heat barrier is ally but completely wrapped in this stuff
I doesn't get hot
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
I doesn't get hot
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
....this is now the next part that i need to look into as the adapter is now underway!
10 August 2011, 01:12 PM
#52
cheers harvey,i can see the reason and why the trumpets are spun from alluminium,and also understand why there needs to be smooth flow to the maf,i am also well aware of remap once this is fitted along with fmic.
as regards to a "partition" in the engine bay,we were considering using stainless steel,and using it more like a heat shield to keep the hot air away from filter rather than an enclosed area,any thoughts?
thanks.
as regards to a "partition" in the engine bay,we were considering using stainless steel,and using it more like a heat shield to keep the hot air away from filter rather than an enclosed area,any thoughts?
thanks.
Carbon fibre is much easier to work with and has a degree of flex. I would also thermally insulate the side of the carbon fibre facing the engine bay with reflective heat blanket insulation material. A vertical barrier/divider from the driver side chassis rail up to the bonnet will be far more effective, especially if you feed more air into the filter area than the engine consumes.
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