lol, i meant rally designs it is saved as hoses direct on my favourites, exactly how much did you lower the rad
isnt the samco on the i/c and inlet gonna be enough
i didnt really want to route the pipework through the wing etc but i may have to if they wont fit through the top...
thanks again
Rob

 

if you look at the top of the bracket and then mount that on the lowest part... about 2" or so...

I dunno about the hoses... what ever seems right... was a bit of a delay getting the hoses... but good service..

anyway some pics...

Downpipe Unbolted..



Some of the cr@p removed from the headers.. **** me are the bigger tct cutters for the die grinder leathal.... metal flying everywhere...



Borrowed this... we were told that it would run on 240v... which it will but still needs to be a three phase supply @ 48A so have to wait till the weekend then Ill borrow someones garage with a socket... **** me is this heavy... Dad said his mate put it in the car... he didnt say he helped... It was halfway out before I realised how heavy it was..



Finsihed off porting the manifold... I cant be arsed with all the polishing ****... its smooth enough for me...



other side...



David


[Edited by David_Wallis - 7/15/2002 10:32:39 PM]

 

Nice work plasma monkey.

Careful where yoo point that thing it could be dange

 

Dangerous... this thing is f%^&^^ lethal apparently... will cut through 15mm plate... Oh and It came with some flame proof matting thats been burnt through...

We were going to do it outside to be on the safe side...

Weve got some three phase sockets in our comms rooms... Not sure the ups's would like that though



David

 

"clucking bell!"

David, give us a bell when you're firing this thing up and I'll arrange to be in the next county!!!

3 phase in the comms room? Of course, why wouldn't you have it there...

 

Nick...

Hmmm I think Ill be there as well.. Remote start

The Ups are three phase and we have stupid sockets so that we can have the different phases within reach of each other... they spent a lot of time balancing the loads between phases.. but some of the mid range stuff uses 3phase supplys...

can just imagine this in our new fancy comms room... hmmm picture?

David

 

all I can say is LMFAO

keep it coming

 

Cheers david, ive got a spare radiator so i think i'm gonna have a play about with that, if i remove the crossmember from the top of it.. maybe the top layer of fins as well.. it may give an extra say 20mm clearance over the top of the rad and i might not have to lower the rad as much??????....
gonna mount the i/c tomorrow .... hope i dont have to cut too much bumper away
Rob

 

Another useless bit of info regarding the manifolds.. They look like UK ones, the jap ones are slightly different, with them having 2 distinct runners for approx 6-8in, before combining together.

 

eh?? are you saying the jap ones are different / better??



David

 

TTT

 

Not sure if they are better or worse, but def different design. The UK ones seem to join into one port straight after exiting the cylinder heads. The jap ones have 2 distinct ports, for approx 8" after leaving the cylinder heads, before then coming together.
Check my post a while ago, where I ported mine, and look at the pics. Some of the differences will be noticable. Mine are jap manifolds.
eg. pass side is very noticeable different, the drivers side less so.
I will try and get side by side pics, as I have UK manifolds kicking about somehwere too.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/17/2002 8:11:48 PM]

 

Cheers StevieTurbo...

Tonights pics... dont know whats up with me, I did loads of work..

Std Up pipe with heat shields on..


Turbo end of up-pipe


Engine end of up-pipe


Removing heatshields for the sake of it with a air chisel...


Up-pipe with heatshields removed


Can some one checks what connects to this left pipe er nipple.. ?? (MY93 - 96)


WTF is this (under inlet manifold) and where should the two pipes go to??? one I think goes to the filter for the fuel tank... and can this just vent to atmosphere?


Throttle body, with metal tube inserted + duct tape for packing, this is to locate it in the hole machined in the plate on the inlet manifold whilst drilling the holes prior to tapping it.


This shows how it helped located the throttle body..


Sorry no pics in between as my dad was helping me to do this as it needed two people, and he's better at tapping. hence no time to take pics... So tapped plate...



two new throttle body gaskets courtesy of subaru (free to me! ) nearly had to buy some new ones as mum thought they were rubbish and had thrown them in the drawer...



after degreasing inlet and throttle body and washing out all metal bits... bolting throttle body to inlet manifold with new gasket..


Inlet in place on the car..


Inlet on car again..


Also removed downpipe tonight.. (pretty obvious as up-pipe is off) also had to jack engine up out of the way to get it out.. 1bolt to undo to do this though.. piece of p1ss.

David

 

Dave, that pipe on the manifold is for the dump valve usually...
Rob

 

Nice one.. cheers... its been in bits that long... just working out what still needs to move...

David

 

Um, I think that sensor is your MAP
sensor, isn't it?

One pipe goes to the little pressure barb on the throttle body...
the other one goes...uhm...memory fails.....

[Edited by Turbo_Steve - 7/18/2002 12:20:50 AM]

 

Yup its the poo poo valve pipe. The other thing when the solenoid is activated, draws fuel vapours from the charcoal canister down front , into the inlet manifold ( the tiny skinny pipe on the top of the throttle plate ). Under boost etc, this solenoid would be closed. It does need to be plugged in, or the CEL comes on.
The charcoal canister is linked to the fuel tank vent, where the fumes come from...I dumped mine, plugged any pipes on the manifold, just left the solenoid there doing nothing. The fuel tank no vents to atmos. The pipe coming from the tank is located along with the fuel pipes on the pass side strut tower. It links from there to the inlet, along with the feed/return. Load of bollox I say
After free venting, no more hissing from the fuel filler cap.
When making your up-pipe, which I assume you are, the hole in the flange does need opened up quite a bit, to match gasket etc. I also opened the turbo to match, as the inlet on it was smaller than the gasket.
Im sure you know already, but when welding, I welded maybe an inch at a time, then dunked it in water, to try and stop it warping. It seems to work OK, but I also did use new gaskets, to be safe. The downpipe you are making may need more care when welding. It will warp very easy, so go slow, and keep it cool, bit at a time

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/18/2002 12:23:02 AM]

 

Ohhh Is it?
THAT explains a few things, then (like why it looks like a solenoid)

So where is the MAP sensor, then?





There is a little pipe coming off the barb on the throttle body that heads off underneath the 'spider arms' of the inlet manifold.
Which I presume goes to the MAP sensor? (After all, that barb IS where I connected my boost guage! What better place to measure boost?)

Help?


[Edited by Turbo_Steve - 7/18/2002 12:25:36 AM]

 

The map sensor pipe, is rubber all the way from the inlet manifold to the map sensor from memory.
One of the pipes on the top of the manifold is for the fuel press reg., which goes from rubbber-solid-rubber manifold-pipe-fpr.
The solenoid thingy, goes from the top of the throttle plate to a rubber-solid-rubber-solid-rubber-canister ( or something like that. )
3 pipes in picccy, L-R
Dump valve - Fuel press reg - MAP sensor

Altho, MAP and FPR, not necessarily in that order

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/18/2002 1:02:05 AM]

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/18/2002 1:02:54 AM]

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/18/2002 1:03:46 AM]

 

ohhhh.....ok

(plans to go playing hunt the MAP tomorrow)

So you removed the entire fuel-fume-rebreathing system?

Isn't that 1) illegal
2) bad for emissions
3) naughty
4) bad for fuel economy

or is this bottle of "generic tescos white rum" taking it's toll?

(i.e. dropping my already room temperature IQ)

 

It will probably not help you get a christmas card from greappeace, but I dont think there is much harm in it. Petrol stations vent their tanks to atmos, so it aint any different.
MAP sensor is located on drivers side strut tower, closest to the wing, and mounted low. The pipe goes to it, via another wee solenoid.
It wont effect fuel economy one bit.
And Ive never tried tescos white rum, so cant comment. But it does get tricky typing while blocked...lol

 

yeah...special as I am on a weeine laptop keyboard.

er...weenie too

THAT is the MAP sensor? That lil 3 wire Denso Jobbie? Damn: I thought it was. I disconnected it and replaced with a resistor (no Check Engine Light ) but the ECU still knew I was overboosting? Is this because it measured the air intake on the MAF and fell of the end of the fuel map rather than actualy having a physical overboost protection system?

I was going to fit another boost switch inline with the boost solenoid? So that it was disconnected until I reach 12PSI...then let the ECU handle the rest: NO overboost, just full on boost as soon as it is available rather than the ECU stifling the car all the time.

Think it will work, or shall I just sort it out and buy a Link / GEMS Ecu? Or wait for the up and coming vapourware

I'm in such a pickle.

Dave, your manifold looks great. Where did you learn to be such a good engineer?

 

I didnt learn to be such a good engineer... but my Dad is... without his help it would look a ****....Stevieturbo... cheers for that... so one pipe off that can go to nothing, the other to the throttle body... also the three pipes that come from the tank... do i Just bung the vent pipe up or do I need to do something at the tank end???

David

 

There is also an overload protection built in to the ecu. I don't know how high it is on your ecu, but theoretically, if you get too much load (weird combo of airflow, boost, throttle and RPM) you will get a fuel cut.

Paul

 

ttt

 

I just left the vent pipe to atmos. Dont plug it, or in hot weather, there will be a lot of pressure build up in the tank. It does need to be ventilated

 

Water pipe for throttle body made by combining the two original pipes with a bit of 8mm copper.



Other new water pipe made from length of new rubber...


Fuel rail and fuel pipe in position on car.


Picture of throttle body on the inlet showing water pipes.


Y Piece in fuel line... to be pushed under the inlet..


David

 

Is that white plastic Y piece suitable for fuel...be careful, as some can go brittle and break very easy..

 

It is yes... bought specifically for fuel..

David

 

If the T peice is going to be out of sight, under the manifold, it will be less easy to check on a regular basis, so maybe a metal version would give a little more peace-of-mind?

Moray
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