Truss

iTrader: (2)

what happened there then? What car was it?
Would i really be throwing money at a 2003/04 sti type uk?

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

If you buy a UK STI, you will need to fit a sportcat / decat exhaust, remap and fit a beefier ARB as a start .

kewe

iTrader: (4)

So in a word - YES

Truss

iTrader: (2)

lol, i can't be doing that straight away.
i mean repairing the thing!

daz1968

iTrader: (13)

Get one with ppp then just add a panel filter and have a remap when you can, maybe add a straight through centre pipe to aid the noise don't need anything else as handling good enough for most anyway I can say my jdm sti doesn't understeer with stock suspension I will only change it if it wears out then probably have coilovers.

Truss

iTrader: (2)

haha stop teasing with the mods!
Will i be repairing the thing more than driving it as "ditchmyster" has put in my head?!

daz1968

iTrader: (13)

Not if looked after I have always found my sti and previous wrx very reliable and other than service items never have needed anything else other than mods I chose to fit. Unreliability in my opinion comes with bad maintenance and poor modifications if both are avoided and you find a good one then you should have many years of reliable motoring ahead.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

I hear what your saying, but it's never quite that simple.

I did everything right with my first 04 wrx brand new always serviced on the dot as wellas intrim oil changes every 4/5k and that ended up needing a rebuild before 30k.

The second one type r bought a good one as was confirmed by the specalist tuner when a few days after i got it, i took it in for over 1k worth of work cambelt all fluids full service and a few other bits, week later bigend gone.

So not always the case, just unlucky.

At the end of the day these are high performance turbo cars and as such live a highly stressed existance, and the smallest of component failure can result in very large bills.

davoid

try an sti first. thing about them is that because of the engine speed at which boost comes on, you need to be carrying decent revs i.e. fair speed into a corner in order to blast out of it nicely. In real world driving this is difficult and can be dangerous, whereas a wrx comes on boost a bit earlier. Then again, I'm an old git now and soft as ****e. JDM wagons are good for this. Though apprently you can change headers and up-pipe for faster spool up which will help on an sti, not sure how much of a difference this makes to the torque curve.

dunx

iTrader: (3)

My car has needed only new front disks and pads all round in the first eight years.

Whilst running 340 bhp all was well, it never missed a beat. I choose the Whiteline rear ARB and drop-links to control the understeer set at the factory.
Once beyond 400 bhp I had to change many items, but that was by choice.

HTH

dunx