Powerstation AST setup - thoughts?
08 July 2011, 11:29 PM
#32
^ This is a good standard-ish fast road set-up, but you'll want something a bit more aggressive with your AST competion kit and 255 tyres Ilya. i.e. more Camber, more Castor and less rear toe-in. Makes no difference whether for Classic or Newage, the principals are the same. Only thing that makes a difference is what type of diffs you have and what you're planning to do with the car.
Just noticed you have '06 Spec-C. The settings i suggested will be perfect for fast-road/trackday use, the more Castor you can get the better
Just noticed you have '06 Spec-C. The settings i suggested will be perfect for fast-road/trackday use, the more Castor you can get the better
Last edited by S10WRC; 10 July 2011 at 11:26 PM.
09 July 2011, 08:11 AM
#33
^ This is a good standard-ish fast road set-up, but you'll want something a bit more aggressive with your AST competion kit and 255 tyres Ilya. i.e. more Camber, more Castor and less toe. Makes no difference whether for Classic or Newage, the principals are the same. Only thing that makes a difference is what type of diffs you have and what you're planning to do with the car.
Just noticed you have '06 Spec-C. The settings i suggested will be perfect for fast-road/trackday use, the more Castor you can get the better
Just noticed you have '06 Spec-C. The settings i suggested will be perfect for fast-road/trackday use, the more Castor you can get the better
Here's a setting I was using on my 370bhp JDM new age. This car had quite a few suspension goodies fitted (lowered Eibach coilovers and lots of Whitline) and drove devastatingly well.
I prefer a bit of toe-in (Prodrive recommends 0.15' each wheel for their P1) as while this will make for a little less sharp turn-in, mid-corner grip as well as overall grip will be higher
09 July 2011, 11:26 AM
#35
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I have a 2006 Spec C (T20) with 360bhp with Powerstation's AST setup.
The insides of the tyres seem to be wearing faster. I had this too on my 2001 modded WRX with Prodrive settings. Is wear on the inside tyre walls to be expected with all of the more aggressive settings?
The insides of the tyres seem to be wearing faster. I had this too on my 2001 modded WRX with Prodrive settings. Is wear on the inside tyre walls to be expected with all of the more aggressive settings?
09 July 2011, 08:03 PM
#38
I agree, the Powerstation settings posted above were a little tame
Here's a setting I was using on my 370bhp JDM new age. This car had quite a few suspension goodies fitted (lowered Eibach coilovers and lots of Whitline) and drove devastatingly well.
I prefer a bit of toe-in (Prodrive recommends 0.15' each wheel for their P1) as while this will make for a little less sharp turn-in, mid-corner grip as well as overall grip will be higher
Here's a setting I was using on my 370bhp JDM new age. This car had quite a few suspension goodies fitted (lowered Eibach coilovers and lots of Whitline) and drove devastatingly well.
I prefer a bit of toe-in (Prodrive recommends 0.15' each wheel for their P1) as while this will make for a little less sharp turn-in, mid-corner grip as well as overall grip will be higher
15-16' toe-in front & rear, where did you get those settings from?That must have tramlined like a b!tch
!Elite Direct in Rainham, around £100. But get yourself a set of camber bolts and an ALK or Top-mounts (or ideally both) fitted first
.I have a 2006 Spec C (T20) with 360bhp with Powerstation's AST setup.
The insides of the tyres seem to be wearing faster. I had this too on my 2001 modded WRX with Prodrive settings. Is wear on the inside tyre walls to be expected with all of the more aggressive settings?
The insides of the tyres seem to be wearing faster. I had this too on my 2001 modded WRX with Prodrive settings. Is wear on the inside tyre walls to be expected with all of the more aggressive settings?
. Could try fitting some 2-3mm wheel shims if this is the case to stop them rubbing .
Last edited by S10WRC; 10 July 2011 at 11:28 PM.
10 July 2011, 11:39 AM
#40
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I found major benefits by increasing CASTOR as much as possible, which gave me dynamic CAMBER when really needed.... when you turn-in and through the turn. Extremely good for road use imo.
I use the Whiteline adjustable top mounts and ALK (see my Project Thread for details), which have given me just under 6degs of CASTOR.
It's rock solid in a straight line, no adverse tyre wear (a little over -1deg CAMBER fr and rr), great initial turn-in and mid-corner grip.
I use the Whiteline adjustable top mounts and ALK (see my Project Thread for details), which have given me just under 6degs of CASTOR.
It's rock solid in a straight line, no adverse tyre wear (a little over -1deg CAMBER fr and rr), great initial turn-in and mid-corner grip.
10 July 2011, 12:17 PM
#41
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this is what my p1s got on it
front whiteline anti roll bar
front whiteline drop links
whiteline anti lift kit
rear whiteline anti roll bar
rear whiteline drop links
alloy wish bones
fully polly bushed
sti front strut brace
cusco h brace
sti pink supention , (ajustible soft to hard only)
stu
front whiteline anti roll bar
front whiteline drop links
whiteline anti lift kit
rear whiteline anti roll bar
rear whiteline drop links
alloy wish bones
fully polly bushed
sti front strut brace
cusco h brace
sti pink supention , (ajustible soft to hard only)
stu
10 July 2011, 12:35 PM
#42
Before making any decisions get a ride in a car that has the suspension you are thinking of fitting.
Suspension is something very subjective and what works for one may not for another.
If a car is mostly driven on real roads (rather than racetracks) you need a suspension that damps and absorbs.
Harder is not always better as a lot of people think.
Just my 2p after having driven/been a passenger of a few cars with coilovers.
The original shocks with a set of Prodrive/Eibach/Sti lowerting springs work really well for a road/occasional track car.
Suspension is something very subjective and what works for one may not for another.
If a car is mostly driven on real roads (rather than racetracks) you need a suspension that damps and absorbs.
Harder is not always better as a lot of people think.
Just my 2p after having driven/been a passenger of a few cars with coilovers.
The original shocks with a set of Prodrive/Eibach/Sti lowerting springs work really well for a road/occasional track car.
Last edited by fpan; 10 July 2011 at 12:39 PM.
10 July 2011, 12:50 PM
#43
Before making any decisions get a ride in a car that has the suspension you are thinking of fitting.
Suspension is something very subjective and what works for one may not for another.
If a car is mostly driven on real roads (rather than racetracks) you need a suspension that damps and absorbs.
Harder is not always better as a lot of people think.
Just my 2p after having driven/been a passenger of a few cars with coilovers.
The original shocks with a set of Prodrive/Eibach/Sti lowerting springs work really well for a road/occasional track car.
Suspension is something very subjective and what works for one may not for another.
If a car is mostly driven on real roads (rather than racetracks) you need a suspension that damps and absorbs.
Harder is not always better as a lot of people think.
Just my 2p after having driven/been a passenger of a few cars with coilovers.
The original shocks with a set of Prodrive/Eibach/Sti lowerting springs work really well for a road/occasional track car.
10 July 2011, 05:24 PM
#44
I found major benefits by increasing CASTOR as much as possible, which gave me dynamic CAMBER when really needed.... when you turn-in and through the turn. Extremely good for road use imo.
I use the Whiteline adjustable top mounts and ALK (see my Project Thread for details), which have given me just under 6degs of CASTOR. It's rock solid in a straight line, no adverse tyre wear (a little over -1deg CAMBER fr and rr), great initial turn-in and mid-corner grip.
I use the Whiteline adjustable top mounts and ALK (see my Project Thread for details), which have given me just under 6degs of CASTOR.
It's rock solid in a straight line, no adverse tyre wear (a little over -1deg CAMBER fr and rr), great initial turn-in and mid-corner grip.A castor kit as opposed to a ALK might achieve even more...?
11 July 2011, 12:05 AM
#45
)
11 July 2011, 08:47 AM
#48
You'd certainly have lots of grip with that much toe-in, but you'd soon scrub your tyres out for sure, and it would be very difficult to un-hook the rear in slower/sharper corners (it's good to have a bit of controllable oversteer in slow/sharp corners IMO, all about acheiving the right balance )
)There again, I went along to a local Hunter alignment centre recently who had in their database P1 settings. It stated a tolerance of 0.01 to 0°15'
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