Base OS Maps / ECU tuning
16 April 2011, 08:41 PM
#63
Sitting at idle the engine is in open loop and the ECU calculates "on the fly" using the MAF / front 02 sensor etc. I thought the ECU looked for schoicimetic fuelling at idle.
When on boost the ECU uses stored values in ROM to look after Boost / fuel /ignition. At least that's how I thought things worked ?
Shaun
When on boost the ECU uses stored values in ROM to look after Boost / fuel /ignition. At least that's how I thought things worked ?
Shaun
Would've thought based on the above idle is CL?
I am not sure if the AFR should be 1.47? I might be wrong thinking it is too high as the engine is idling.
16 April 2011, 09:24 PM
#65
What I've been reading seems to suggest the car goes from closed to open loop - hence the CL to OL parameter tables and delays?
Would've thought based on the above idle is CL?
I am not sure if the AFR should be 1.47? I might be wrong thinking it is too high as the engine is idling.
Would've thought based on the above idle is CL?
I am not sure if the AFR should be 1.47? I might be wrong thinking it is too high as the engine is idling.
17 April 2011, 07:42 AM
#66
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The plugs are tucked up into the wiring loom, this generally gives you an idea if its been messed with before as they’ll be hanging down if they've been accessed before.
May I suggest you buy yourself a wideband for WOT pulls, without it your really not going to achieve to much, but hey go out and log as much as possible, read a lot more.
Be careful and don’t do anything if your not sure, as you’ve said, everyone has to start somewhere.
Last edited by Black Widow; 17 April 2011 at 07:45 AM.
17 April 2011, 04:32 PM
#67
The plugs are tucked up into the wiring loom, this generally gives you an idea if its been messed with before as they’ll be hanging down if they've been accessed before.
May I suggest you buy yourself a wideband for WOT pulls, without it your really not going to achieve to much, but hey go out and log as much as possible, read a lot more.
Be careful and don’t do anything if your not sure, as you’ve said, everyone has to start somewhere.
May I suggest you buy yourself a wideband for WOT pulls, without it your really not going to achieve to much, but hey go out and log as much as possible, read a lot more.
Be careful and don’t do anything if your not sure, as you’ve said, everyone has to start somewhere.
My ECU readout number when compared to Scoobypedia gives my car as an MY03/04 whereas it's only a MY01. Either my ECu has been changed or the site is wrong?
Thnx
20 April 2011, 07:26 PM
#69
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tbh it sounds like you need to get it checked out professionaly first to find out about the fueling. i realy think your gonna be back on in a few months saying engines gone bang, hope not but i wouldn't be suprised 
.
not sure why they'd dick around with the ecu tbh, unless its ppp'd
.not sure why they'd dick around with the ecu tbh, unless its ppp'd
thats sounds like the company i used, how many had problem, if its the ones i used i had a couple of issuies that wasnt write
20 April 2011, 07:32 PM
#70
Electronic knock detectors with rows of LED's do you mean? The measure the amount of noise at a certain frequency.........which may or may not represent det.
Shaun
Shaun
21 April 2011, 06:34 AM
#73
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The ECU will be in closed loop at idle and low revs/loads, this is when it uses the standard narrow band lambda sensor to help calculate fuelling etc. The ECU will try to keep the voltage of the sensor at around 0.45V. A voltage above this is rich and so the ECU will make the mixture leaner until it drops below the voltage then it will make it richer until it goes back above and so on. The middle voltage represents a stoichiometric mixture, which is around 15:1 air to petrol. This value changes though depending on the fuel, Ethanol is around 9:1. A stoichiometric mixture is no good when on boost though, you will kill the engine. When on load/boost the ECU will go open loop and ignore the standard Lambda as it's range is far too narrow. This is my understanding of it anyway.
21 April 2011, 10:31 AM
#74
Good info, also 15:1 or stoich is not the most fuel effecient way for the engine to run in light throtttle positions, they run that AFR (air fuel ratio) so that the cat lights up and burns correctly, but as most guys are running de-cat then a leaner AFR on part throttle or cruise can be used and much improves fuel economy. For this to be achieved the ecu must be open loop for these areas in the map. My 2001 bug wrx shows off the scale lean on the in car narrowband AFR gauge when cruising on light throttle, and it returns upto 30 mpg on a run.
21 April 2011, 10:43 AM
#75
Good info, also 15:1 or stoich is not the most fuel effecient way for the engine to run in light throtttle positions, they run that AFR (air fuel ratio) so that the cat lights up and burns correctly, but as most guys are running de-cat then a leaner AFR on part throttle or cruise can be used and much improves fuel economy. For this to be achieved the ecu must be open loop for these areas in the map. My 2001 bug wrx shows off the scale lean on the in car narrowband AFR gauge when cruising on light throttle, and it returns upto 30 mpg on a run.
My MAS airflow meter is giving a voltage reading but no g/s reading?! I'm using Romraider and the loggin feature and can't understand why this is the case???
23 August 2011, 01:44 AM
#79
In terms of tuning your own car I'd say go for it, but with certain warnings to take heed from. There are two big things that will kill your engine, a lean running situation and detonation. Those two things you must have a wideband lambda sensor for and electronic det cans, if you have those, you have half a chance to getting it right.
When I tune a car, the first thing I will do is check general sensor readings, maf, coolant temp and boost profile and blast it through it's paces listening to the amount of noise through the det cans and what my wideband tells me about the fueling. If all these things add up to a healthy car in standard form I will crack on with mapping. I'd say 50% of my mapping time is problem solving for leaks, lack of power, stumbling and miss-reading sensors, so this is the place to start.
The bugeye as standard has probably the worst standard map on from the factory in terms of ignition trim and fueling. As with any tuner I usually start from a decent base map of my own and tailor to suit the car and fuel.
Your other problem is measuring performance difference in terms of power increase. After all of this you might find it feels quicker and goes better, but you have no idea what the car will be putting out. Sometimes the difference between 240-270bhp can be just a few degrees ignition timing advance. With enough octane booster in the fuel you can make it not det limited, which means you will advance the ignition past the point of maximum power and it will drop off in performance. Again with no way to measure this you may as well stick your finger out the window and make up a number!
In terms of programs, you can use Rom raider and EcuFlash which are free and not bad for basic changes and logging, but most professional open source tuners use EcuEdit as the logging ability is far superior and ultimately you spend most of your time logging parameters rather than changing them.
Ultimately mapping is not a black art, or rocket science itself, however experienced ears and understanding intimately what you're working on is what you pay for professionally.
Hope this helps,
Graham
When I tune a car, the first thing I will do is check general sensor readings, maf, coolant temp and boost profile and blast it through it's paces listening to the amount of noise through the det cans and what my wideband tells me about the fueling. If all these things add up to a healthy car in standard form I will crack on with mapping. I'd say 50% of my mapping time is problem solving for leaks, lack of power, stumbling and miss-reading sensors, so this is the place to start.
The bugeye as standard has probably the worst standard map on from the factory in terms of ignition trim and fueling. As with any tuner I usually start from a decent base map of my own and tailor to suit the car and fuel.
Your other problem is measuring performance difference in terms of power increase. After all of this you might find it feels quicker and goes better, but you have no idea what the car will be putting out. Sometimes the difference between 240-270bhp can be just a few degrees ignition timing advance. With enough octane booster in the fuel you can make it not det limited, which means you will advance the ignition past the point of maximum power and it will drop off in performance. Again with no way to measure this you may as well stick your finger out the window and make up a number!
In terms of programs, you can use Rom raider and EcuFlash which are free and not bad for basic changes and logging, but most professional open source tuners use EcuEdit as the logging ability is far superior and ultimately you spend most of your time logging parameters rather than changing them.
Ultimately mapping is not a black art, or rocket science itself, however experienced ears and understanding intimately what you're working on is what you pay for professionally.
Hope this helps,
Graham
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