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Old 15 April 2011, 04:14 PM
  #31  
SinghSuperStud
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Originally Posted by bugeyejohn
My post deleted, anyway on a bugeye theres a obd11 connector as said above.
lol - be good to get the definitive word on it? anybody?
Old 15 April 2011, 04:16 PM
  #32  
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Yes it will have an ODB2 connector

Tony
Old 15 April 2011, 04:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Yes it will have an ODB2 connector

Tony
I have got that but do I need the green plugs connecting? Do I even have green plugs?

Old 15 April 2011, 04:18 PM
  #34  
urban
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No
Old 15 April 2011, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by urban
No
Old 15 April 2011, 05:30 PM
  #36  
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http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning...-ecuflash.html
This might help.
Old 15 April 2011, 05:42 PM
  #37  
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Personally I'd get the car remapped by a travellong OS mapper and bung him a few quid to show you the basic steps. Then keep the Mappers map, stick back on the OEM map and DIY. You will then at least have a "propper" map to fall back on

Shaun
Old 15 April 2011, 06:01 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Midlife......
Personally I'd get the car remapped by a travellong OS mapper and bung him a few quid to show you the basic steps. Then keep the Mappers map, stick back on the OEM map and DIY. You will then at least have a "propper" map to fall back on

Shaun
i agree. to the OP, graham (engine mapper) has recently mapped my car and if you were to pay him the very competitive Ł225 fee he would/is more than happy to take things step by step with you ensuring you personally are a part of the process rather than just a passenger. Grahams very nature is that of a very helpful and extremely meticulous lover of tuning scoobys and evos. would happily vouch for this mappers professional attitude and his after sales care. thanks again Graham
Old 15 April 2011, 06:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bugeyejohn
Cheers :-)

Looks like I'll have to have a better look
Old 15 April 2011, 06:22 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Midlife......
Personally I'd get the car remapped by a travellong OS mapper and bung him a few quid to show you the basic steps. Then keep the Mappers map, stick back on the OEM map and DIY. You will then at least have a "propper" map to fall back on

Shaun

I might keep this as q backup option - didn't realize he was so well priced.

Initially it started off being a cheap way to diagnose the issues I am having whilst learning a new thing - now it's slowly turning into something a bit more lol
Old 15 April 2011, 07:36 PM
  #41  
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Had a dig around and found all the plugs.

Question Is - shoul I have a few extra small connector blocks?

I also have two spare wires that aren't connected into the green plug but are terminated by being bent back on themselves and then taped with electrical insulation tape ... Is this normal???
Old 15 April 2011, 08:22 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by SinghSuperStud
Had a dig around and found all the plugs.

Question Is - shoul I have a few extra small connector blocks?

I also have two spare wires that aren't connected into the green plug but are terminated by being bent back on themselves and then taped with electrical insulation tape ... Is this normal???
Yes that's normal, two green connectors need to be connected for flashing as well as the plug that you short out or buy the flash connector from Tactrix with the cable. ODB2 connector is bottom of the dash and is used by the Tactrix cable to log and flash when the computer is connected.

I understand what you are saying about not needing a wideband or det cans. Unfortunately though you are tuning blind without them. The original narrow band, well semi wideband O2 sensor is pretty innacurate unless set up properly. This is where you will extract a lot of power and efficiency for the amount of boost you currently run. Without accurate O2 readings you're taking a stab in the dark. So I would say, tune, but only with the right equipment. You won't for example see the car running extremely lean up top if your pump is weak due to the way in which the original O2 sensor works.

Obviously if the car is running healthily now and you tune with very safe limits you'll get away with it for certain. But checking it's health is the first step and without the necessary equipment this will definately leave a problem unidentified and potential failure.

At the end of the day it'll probably cost you more to buy the equipment and learn to tune than it would to pay a mapper. As Lee has said I'm happy to help if I can and he has a sensible idea of buying a map and learning from a mapper on the job. Others probably wouldn't, but I'm happy to spend the time to show you what i'm doing. (Within reason!)

Graham
Old 15 April 2011, 08:46 PM
  #43  
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Full respect to you Graham for actually taking time to reply to someone who wants to have a go at tuning their car. You can bet that other mappers wouldnt entertain the thought of given guidance, its always seemed to me that the world of mapping is tighter than the fricking magicians code!
Old 15 April 2011, 09:19 PM
  #44  
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hi m8 i was looking at mapping mine, did a lot of reseach and downloaded loads of stuff including

ECU Explorer
ECU Flash
RomRaider
EcuEdit

i also have some stock maps and modified maps but after loads of reading i didnt go for it. i got Duncan @ racedynamix to do mine and he did a very good job

my problem was that some of the modified maps i downloaded i didnt know if they were ok or not and i thought for the sake of a few ŁŁŁ its worth paying to get it done right.
Old 15 April 2011, 09:43 PM
  #45  
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Graham, you're a gent and I will probably take you up on the offer

I just like to have a play myself - hopefully just reading and understanding roms won't cause any issues!

Are you ever in the West Mids - specifically anywhere local to J9, M6?

thanks

Originally Posted by EngineMapper
Yes that's normal, two green connectors need to be connected for flashing as well as the plug that you short out or buy the flash connector from Tactrix with the cable. ODB2 connector is bottom of the dash and is used by the Tactrix cable to log and flash when the computer is connected.

I understand what you are saying about not needing a wideband or det cans. Unfortunately though you are tuning blind without them. The original narrow band, well semi wideband O2 sensor is pretty innacurate unless set up properly. This is where you will extract a lot of power and efficiency for the amount of boost you currently run. Without accurate O2 readings you're taking a stab in the dark. So I would say, tune, but only with the right equipment. You won't for example see the car running extremely lean up top if your pump is weak due to the way in which the original O2 sensor works.

Obviously if the car is running healthily now and you tune with very safe limits you'll get away with it for certain. But checking it's health is the first step and without the necessary equipment this will definately leave a problem unidentified and potential failure.

At the end of the day it'll probably cost you more to buy the equipment and learn to tune than it would to pay a mapper. As Lee has said I'm happy to help if I can and he has a sensible idea of buying a map and learning from a mapper on the job. Others probably wouldn't, but I'm happy to spend the time to show you what i'm doing. (Within reason!)

Graham
Old 15 April 2011, 11:27 PM
  #46  
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Well I hooked it all up - I've always had the CEL light on for low alternator voltage.

When it was all plugged up the connections caused the CEL to keep flashing!

The 'Learning View' app also found the following issues within the diagnostic codes:


7 codes found:
P1518 STARTER SWITCH LOW INPUT
P0851 NEUTRAL SWITCH INPUT LOW
P1152 FRONT O2 SENSOR RANGE/PERF LOW B1 S1
P1153 FRONT O2 SENSOR RANGE/PERF HIGH B1 S1
P0137 REAR O2 SENSOR LOW VOLTAGE
P0502 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOW INPUT
P0503 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR INTERMITTENT

The low alternator voltage was cleared when I did an ECU reset.

I'm thinking the O2 sensor codes are related to the exhaust? After doing the ECU reset the car sounds 'rougher' but I believe thats because I've reset all of the learning data from it.

Time to get on Google and fish out the codes above!
Old 15 April 2011, 11:39 PM
  #47  
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Turns out some of these are because I left the test connectors plugged together !
Old 15 April 2011, 11:42 PM
  #48  
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Iwas just about to say did you unplug.The lamda sensor will certainly cause it to run rich.
Old 15 April 2011, 11:45 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by bugeyejohn
Iwas just about to say did you unplug.The lamda sensor will certainly cause it to run rich.
so which errors are as a result of keeping the plugs together? I can double check but I'm back inside now and it's too dark to unplug the connectors lol

I guess the lambda issue is something that won't go away when disconnecting. WIll pop in to my Scooby specialist in the morning and see what he thinks!
Old 16 April 2011, 12:05 AM
  #50  
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Im not sure when i test i just plug the OBD2 tester in and dont connect the wires up.
Old 16 April 2011, 06:23 AM
  #51  
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Wideband gauge and sensor:

http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=204

Make your own det cans:

http://passionford.com/forum/technic...-det-cans.html

Do not mess with the ECU without these two things. Logs will be good for fine tuning and resolving issues, but your going to need live accurate data. My opinion, but I'm no mapper. Like you though I am looking into doing my own car, not for trying to save money, but just to be able to tune it myself.
Old 16 April 2011, 09:59 AM
  #52  
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Ignore the plugs under the dash.............. just use the OBD II connector

Shaun
Old 16 April 2011, 12:08 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Saint AAI
Wideband gauge and sensor:

http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=204

Make your own det cans:

http://passionford.com/forum/technic...-det-cans.html

Do not mess with the ECU without these two things. Logs will be good for fine tuning and resolving issues, but your going to need live accurate data. My opinion, but I'm no mapper. Like you though I am looking into doing my own car, not for trying to save money, but just to be able to tune it myself.
Thanks mate - have a mod'd stethoscope to listen for det etc but will also order the wideband sensor.
Old 16 April 2011, 12:47 PM
  #54  
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like the det cans link, think il give them a go.
im using evoscan on my 95 wrx to log my ecu at the minute, before i start modifying it. i have a piggyback ecu to go on my z4 and may try mapping that.
Old 16 April 2011, 12:55 PM
  #55  
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I've read out some log values and the o2 sensor voltage fluctuates rapidly between 0.02 and 3.36 so I have got a replacement sensor.

The AFR Is reading 14.7 so it's too high??!

Cheers
Old 16 April 2011, 04:22 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by urban
Set the scenario

BOOM!
Guys look at each other - ****!, what's that that flew up.

Oh, don't worry, its only a piston

pistons flying up in a horizontally apposed engine? that would be impressive to see......
Old 16 April 2011, 06:56 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by astra_dave
pistons flying up in a horizontally apposed engine? that would be impressive to see......
Hopefully I will never get to see that phenomenon !!
Old 16 April 2011, 07:03 PM
  #58  
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14.7 is the stochiometric AFR that the ECU looks to keep at that level when on open loop isn't it ?

Shaun
Old 16 April 2011, 07:54 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Midlife......
14.7 is the stochiometric AFR that the ECU looks to keep at that level when on open loop isn't it ?

Shaun
From my reading I think 1.47 is 1 lambda and this is a 'perfect' AFR? In reality cars run at 11.1-12 ish?

I do think this is why the car is smelling of petrol after a drive.

I also observed the o2 seńsor voltage fluctuating between 0.02 and 3.5v constantly so I am going to replace that to see if that changes things.

The readings were during closed loop as I was sitting idle with the engine running.

I think I am talking some sense but I might have things completely **** over face lol

Old 16 April 2011, 07:59 PM
  #60  
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Sitting at idle the engine is in open loop and the ECU calculates "on the fly" using the MAF / front 02 sensor etc. I thought the ECU looked for schoicimetic fuelling at idle.

When on boost the ECU uses stored values in ROM to look after Boost / fuel /ignition. At least that's how I thought things worked ?

Shaun


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