1/4 mile racing, how to get sub 13s ?
#32
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harder or softer ?
Just now fronts = 30psi
Rear = 28psi
Also, DCCD settings
i've tried launching on full lock the slipping it all the way back and also just going for it with an open diff from the start and cant say I noticed too much of a difference tbh
Although my best 60ft time may have come with the run on locked diff
Just now fronts = 30psi
Rear = 28psi
Also, DCCD settings
i've tried launching on full lock the slipping it all the way back and also just going for it with an open diff from the start and cant say I noticed too much of a difference tbh
Although my best 60ft time may have come with the run on locked diff
#33
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if you have a reaction time greater than 0.4 seconds you have broke the beam before the green light and you are automatically red lighted.
nothing wrong with those times
do you mean your 60ft time? 0-60 in 1.9 would be fabulous, motorbike territory dont worry you will get used to the jargon. 1.9 60ft times are not bad. look at your slips were the 60ft times consistant? 10 runs with 1.9 60ft times would suggest your car wont go any better. fluctuating 60ft times means you need some work on your launch.
#34
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do you mean your 60ft time? 0-60 in 1.9 would be fabulous, motorbike territory dont worry you will get used to the jargon. 1.9 60ft times are not bad. look at your slips were the 60ft times consistant? 10 runs with 1.9 60ft times would suggest your car wont go any better. fluctuating 60ft times means you need some work on your launch.
I raced a motorbike the other day on the 1/4 mile and got spanked he even pulled of a wheely as he was pulling away !
maybe I need to be quicker of the clutch then ? as I hold it above the biting point for a majority of first gear as I feel anymore power going down and I'd wheel spin, maybe I'm wrong though
Anyway, fuel pump + FPR + FMIC + injectors + map sound like a good idea ?
I'd like to have piece of mind knowing my engine is running safely rather than having it modded and still on standard managment or should i just map it and ignore the mods above, apart from the fueling and see how i get on with that ?
#35
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Anyway, fuel pump + FPR + FMIC + injectors + map sound like a good idea ?
I'd like to have piece of mind knowing my engine is running safely rather than having it modded and still on standard managment or should i just map it and ignore the mods above, apart from the fueling and see how i get on with that ?
#36
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Yes get yourself down to Andy Forrest and get mapped.
Crail is also very prone to a head wind which never helps.
I managed 11.68 at crail in a V2 sti with a forged 2.1 and a TD05 20g mapped for 10% Methanol.
It made a proved 340/333 at the weekend although i belive that figure may be a little on the low side.
The key is don't be scared to launch it i was launching anywhere between 5-6k revs. 0-60 ft time was 1.7.
Crail is also very prone to a head wind which never helps.
I managed 11.68 at crail in a V2 sti with a forged 2.1 and a TD05 20g mapped for 10% Methanol.
It made a proved 340/333 at the weekend although i belive that figure may be a little on the low side.
The key is don't be scared to launch it i was launching anywhere between 5-6k revs. 0-60 ft time was 1.7.
#38
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yes it seems a bit low for me. that time would suggest the thick end of 400 hp. what where your teminal speeds like?
#39
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Hello
Looking for a bit of help improving my 1/4 times
Now I know my first task should be to tighten the nut behind the wheel, but even if it was extra tight theres no way my car could run the 1/4 mile in under 13 seconds imo
I have a V3 Type R. It currently has full exhaust inc decat, equal length headers, panel filter and boost gets raised to 1.2 bar when I do a run.
Its not been mapped yet so first on my shopping list is a simtek
I currently run a 13.5/13.6, cross the line at 104.5mph with a 0-60 foot time of 1.9 seconds, does this sound about right to everyone ?
Really looking for suggestions as to what else I should get along with the simtek to help me crack a high 12 second 1/4 mile
Thanks
Looking for a bit of help improving my 1/4 times
Now I know my first task should be to tighten the nut behind the wheel, but even if it was extra tight theres no way my car could run the 1/4 mile in under 13 seconds imo
I have a V3 Type R. It currently has full exhaust inc decat, equal length headers, panel filter and boost gets raised to 1.2 bar when I do a run.
Its not been mapped yet so first on my shopping list is a simtek
I currently run a 13.5/13.6, cross the line at 104.5mph with a 0-60 foot time of 1.9 seconds, does this sound about right to everyone ?
Really looking for suggestions as to what else I should get along with the simtek to help me crack a high 12 second 1/4 mile
Thanks
Simtek ECU with launch and anti lag.
Experiment with launch RPM.
Experiment with tyre pressures.
You are aiming for a 60 foot time of 1.7 seconds or below. Every 10th of a second saved on the 60 foot will save two 10ths on the overall run so saving two 10ths will immediately reduce your time by four 10ths.
1.2 bar is relatively low and once the Simtek is properly mapped running around 1.4/1.45 bar you may be able to break in to 12 secs. If you map with octane booster or use methanol on map 2, 12 seconds is well within your capabilities with very little further work.
#40
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Get the car as light as possible, no spare wheel, quarter of a tank of fuel or thereabouts but not so little fuel that you have issues with fuel pickup under hard accelleration. Little or no water in the screen wash. Only one tow eye front and rear. Remove unneccessary steel work under the car including the prop catcher.
Simtek ECU with launch and anti lag.
Experiment with launch RPM.
Experiment with tyre pressures.
You are aiming for a 60 foot time of 1.7 seconds or below. Every 10th of a second saved on the 60 foot will save two 10ths on the overall run so saving two 10ths will immediately reduce your time by four 10ths.
1.2 bar is relatively low and once the Simtek is properly mapped running around 1.4/1.45 bar you may be able to break in to 12 secs. If you map with octane booster or use methanol on map 2, 12 seconds is well within your capabilities with very little further work.
Simtek ECU with launch and anti lag.
Experiment with launch RPM.
Experiment with tyre pressures.
You are aiming for a 60 foot time of 1.7 seconds or below. Every 10th of a second saved on the 60 foot will save two 10ths on the overall run so saving two 10ths will immediately reduce your time by four 10ths.
1.2 bar is relatively low and once the Simtek is properly mapped running around 1.4/1.45 bar you may be able to break in to 12 secs. If you map with octane booster or use methanol on map 2, 12 seconds is well within your capabilities with very little further work.
What un-neccessary metal work is there under the car
#41
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieOCb-vWVa4
I'm wanna hurl cash at my scooby or zcar hayabusain this game ... so I watched ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieOCb-vWVa4
I'm wanna hurl cash at my scooby or zcar hayabusain this game ... so I watched ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieOCb-vWVa4
#43
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That calculator is pretty accurate to be fair.
Guestimate
Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 540
Weight without Driver (KG) : 1231
Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 445.71
0 - 60 (Secs) : 2.86
0 - 100 (Secs) : 6.88
60 - 100 (Secs) : 4.02
Quarter Mile (Secs) : 11.32
Terminal Speed (MPH) : 128.26
Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 10.92
Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 132.78
Actual
Guestimate
Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 540
Weight without Driver (KG) : 1231
Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 445.71
0 - 60 (Secs) : 2.86
0 - 100 (Secs) : 6.88
60 - 100 (Secs) : 4.02
Quarter Mile (Secs) : 11.32
Terminal Speed (MPH) : 128.26
Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 10.92
Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 132.78
Actual
#45
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if you have actually raced you will know good runs are made in the first 60ft
again what do you mean here. A bit of a general statement. An exedy twin or triple plate carbon will be miles better than an oem EVO clutch. They cost 10x the price so it's all relative
again what do you mean here. A bit of a general statement. An exedy twin or triple plate carbon will be miles better than an oem EVO clutch. They cost 10x the price so it's all relative
#46
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if you have actually raced you will know good runs are made in the first 60ft
(Of those whose green light )
again what do you mean here. A bit of a general statement. An exedy twin or triple plate carbon will be miles better than an oem EVO clutch. They cost 10x the price so it's all relative
(Of those whose green light )
again what do you mean here. A bit of a general statement. An exedy twin or triple plate carbon will be miles better than an oem EVO clutch. They cost 10x the price so it's all relative
#51
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Oh yes putting it all together is the hard part. Consistency is the key. I actually found it harder to get better times with more power.
#52
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That's one of my problems, getting some consistency.
Launch is very important, also not changing into 5th if you can avoid it when near the line.
At least I beat Stevebt though, I like racing my friends.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWr3k...er_profilepage
He'll twist about gear changes and all sorts, but, a wins a win.
Launch is very important, also not changing into 5th if you can avoid it when near the line.
At least I beat Stevebt though, I like racing my friends.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWr3k...er_profilepage
He'll twist about gear changes and all sorts, but, a wins a win.
#53
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#58
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Video removed! is that cause it shows you loosing Its the same car Micky with the same driver, your quite welcone to try and beat me this year if you want
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWr3k...er_profilepage
He'll twist about gear changes and all sorts, but, a wins a win.
He'll twist about gear changes and all sorts, but, a wins a win.
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