ill be honest i never fit them, i used diff plungers IE of which had more holes in, I also used diff grade oil so it was thicker. the holes in the plunger allowed the oil the pass quicker inside the barrel


The best damper when i was a lad were the associated RC10 ones, that thing glided across the track

I also ran an electronic spped controller which allowed for slow down, before reverse, if u slam it into reverse alot with a standard Servo it can shaft the electric motors

i had electronic for throttle and a very very fast futaba servo for steering

i use a 15T or 13T gear depending on track 13 for windy, never went 17T cos i ran outa track before i hit the top

 

You experiment, see what setting suits your style of driving

 

As above, experimenting with the rebound/damping is trial and error but its worth it when you get it right. Tyres make a MASSIVE difference too depending on the surface your on.

I've just ordered some of these for some serious off-road carnage!



£22 inc wheels, BARGAIN!

 

I've massive wheel/tyres anyway, it helps when on grass to have clearance, small wheels must get so clogged.

 

Thought you might like some more pics, since this thread has been quiet for a while.
You've seen the cars before but here's pics from a different angle and a new car i've added to the collection recently.

The Kyosho SuperTen GP4WD McLaren 1995 F1 GTR 1995 Le Mans Winner



GV Racing BL Cage 1/8th Scale – 4S Lipo 14.8V


Nutech MT 1/5th Scale – 29cc - Loads of hop up parts



Traxxas E-Revo Brushless 1/10th Scale (!) – 16.8V NiMh at mo’ but soon to be 6S Lipo



Different body on E-Revo – Toyota Celica from the 90’s!




The four of them. That Traxxas is a bloody big 1/10th scale for sure!




Here’s a very short vid of the BL Cage. Sorry for quality, but it was taken on an iphone and I don’t have any decent internet connection, so hi res stuff ain’t gonna happen for me I’m afraid, but you should get the idea of what the buggy is like.
If I’d had the gravel tyres on instead of the road stuff it would be quicker, cause as you will see, there’s a lot of dust about with the tyres spinning trying to get grip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCwO8BKszcE

 

You will enjoy the e-revo on 6s, its mental , only thing is the tyres will balloon like crazy and the diffs are a bit weak with 6s but seem fine on 4s or 5s

 

Had the three of them out this afternoon.
Now for the hard part.. cost of repairs!

The Nutech MT needs new steering parts. Think i'll maybe just buy the standard plastic stuff though, cause the ally bits, though nice, are rather expensive. I also had a few receiver issues. Not quite sure what's going on there as it's intermittent but on one occasion made big air over a brow into the trees. Not good, but fortunately still ran when i got it back.

The BL Cage needs a new drive cup as a minimum for the rear. At least i found the dogbone which goes with it. The car was going fine, though handling was pretty **** poor under full throttle (road tyres on gravel surface). Done jumps well though. I've only just learned how to control "flight" through the air to get good landings on this car today. As soon as i switched to the Louise gravel wheels/tyres, the car handled more consistently but the run was cut short due to drive cup issue.
I haven't even looked at the E-Revo yet. Had a few "bad jumps" causing side over sides, so will need to have a look at it and see what it needs. The Celica shell took a battering for sure lol

All in all, a pretty good day, though stripping and rebuilding them is a pain due to time it takes. I hate that part but it's got to be done. Then when they're all clean (like pics above), I don't want to run them cause i know i'm gonna break them! lol You can't win! Oh and there's now no paint left on the Nutech shell, the gravel seen to that.

 

the cage looks mental, I looked at one of those but at £330 bfore battery + charger it was more than I really wanted to send.


STILL HAPPY WITH MY HPi Bullet Flux.. on 2s LiPos. already spent £40 on repare spares lol

 

After yesterday’s run.

Little paint left on Nutech shell!!


C hubs for steering. Lost the bushes and the hubs are worn because of that. $99 a pair.


Drive cup broken on the BL Cage.


No idea how that’s happened but was soon after getting proper grip when I changed to the tyres in the next pic.


E-Revo got through the day unscathed apart from a bent bumper and bracket.

 

So what's next?

I've taken the white springs off the front of the BL Cage and replaced them with black, which is a stiffer spring. I've left the bumpstops on there for now but i may remove them at a later date to give me some more suspension travel.
I've also removed the front and rear anti-roll bars (sway bars) to give a bit more lean into the corners with the gravel tyres. We'll see how that gets on.

I'm going to try and repair the hubs for the Nutech. Not easy as the bushes that go in there are very small, but i'm sure one of the lads at work will give it a try, or possibly come up with another solution. Failing that, $99 comes out my pockets.

Still waiting on the Lipo's for the E-Revo. It runs and handles really well on the Ni-Mh batteries, very fluid like and soft, but on jumps you can't control what it does in the air like the BL Cage.
I've also now put on a set of Louise wheels and tyres on this car as well. Not the same size as the ones you see on the BL Cage, but as big as the standard ones that came with the E-Revo, so truggy tyres in other words.
With the E-Revo being standard just now, the only issue I have is that the standard tyres want to come off the rim too readily (on gravel surface), so will probably not use them at all when the Lipo's go on the car.

All good fun innit?

 

one of my Tamiya mk4 Golfs on 2 piece split rims, not even cut the other one out its mould yet

 

Superb!

 

looks like a real one

 

my daily is a magic black mk4 the tamiya is off on the parcel shelf at edition38 this year

unsure wether to paint the other shell or leave it! will be a few more aditions to the fleet as the year goes on il keep you all updated

 

Finished the cosmetic parts of my Jeep Cherokee











The colours of the RC and my 1:1 XJ are more similar in the flesh than in the pictures. If I have a complaint, it's that I should have blacked the window frames. The front wheels are actually in the right place although it doesn't look it. The rears are too far back (98mm links). I'll be making my own links out of 3mm thread and ally tubes. Just waiting for payday to get a Spektrum DX6i (getting one of these because I plan to get a truck and maybe a tank and would like the extra channels) The Egress will be getting restored after I finish the Optima Mid restoration (nearly there)

 

Just got this Tomahawk 1/10 Impreza.

Haven't fired it up yet, need some batteries, and charging the glow plug starter.

First Nitro car.

 

well kool, is it coming to the NBO?

 

Sorry?

 

Northern Big One

 

I don't think it's got the range.

 

Any one race at West London Racing Centre in Hillingdon / Uxbridge?

 

I've still got my 1/5th Scale FG Modellsport models sat at my Mums. Haven't used them in 6/7 years.

One was the Eco Line model when purchased then made it to Sports Line with front disc brakes, suspension, air filter (k&n),exhaust,foam bumper etc. I added the Porsche GT3 RS bodyshell with Redbull stickers like a car in the FIA GT Series a few years back.

I also have a Eco Line Porsche 993 GT2 that is pretty much bog standard other than changing the rear wing to copy the wing from the Roock Racing GT2 Car. Same colours too.

I've got loads and loads of spare tyres/wheels and bits and bobs.

Also have a Schmacher Lotus Elise 1/6th scale at hers too. And a spare body shell.

I'm tempted to get them working again but haven't the time. Anyone know what they are worth these days?


Steve

 

Anyone know any good places in Manchester to bash their cars?

A few car parks near me but crawling with CCTV and security people.

 

Question for the experts here.

How do you store your Lipos between use?

Do you keep them fully charge?

What do you do if you store them for a few months? My charger has a storage function which I think only charges to 50% - or something.

Finally when charging - what does not exceed the 1C rule mean? Is that if I've got 5000Mah cells don't charge over 5 amps?

 

if anyone knows anywhere i can get a good deal on 1/2 lipos and a charger can you post up, iv gone brushless and my 2000mah's cant supply the motor for more then a minute til the SC detects low voltage

 

I'm currently porting and polishing my nitro to make it faster.

 

I got this charger

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Accuce...QQcmdZViewItem

And two of these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/turnigy-5000ma...item3cb6dc8bef

From the same ebay seller. The charger does all required and the batteries are really good. Running my SCX10 on Sunday for about an hour - it's got a 55t crawler motor in it. I stopped because I didn't know how to set the Lipo alarm on the ESC. If you don't have an ESC that has a cut off I'd also buy Lipo alarms from the same ebayer - I'm buying a couple now.


As for my question - I've been told you should store Lipos fully charged?

 

Dont have a car but I do have a Tiger Tank, bought it for my nephew but my sister wont let him have it as its a war toy so its mine

Tony

 

A Tamiya Tiger? That is quite high on my WANT list

Plan is to get one and commission a proper paint job for it.

 

It's recommended you store lipos at 3.80v per cell, the storage function on the charger should charge or discharge the lipos to 3.80v per cell, what charger do you have?

And yes your correct about charging, a 5000mah lipo charging at 1C is 5 amps, at 2C it's 10 amp, 3C is 15 amps etc

If you had a 3000mah lipo 1C would be 3 amp, 2C 6 amps, 3C 9 amps etc