TIZERBOY

iTrader: (1)

It happen's to the best of us mate,,wish you all the best with ya scooby bud.....

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

Years ago i had this happen on a mk2 escort totally differant i know,anyway i filled the filter etc and the big ends lasted 15 miles when i stripped it down it turned out the filter had a air lock, gutted for you and good luck

Nathan6301

Thanks buddy will keep everyone upto date

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

You have mail

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Call David at APi mate.

DMX1988

That is definantly big ends, and more to the point your crank will be fkd. Also there could be slight bending in the con rods , Having rebuilt my van engine i know this all to well .

Do scoobs have allot of problems with big ends? ive seen a few for sale with big end problems and theres comments here about other people having issues. As a perspective impreza owner ime not too comfortable with hearing all these stories they sound like ticking time bombs !!!

Hope you get some help from zen mate 9k is not allot of mileage from an engine rebuilb

my94wrx

iTrader: (4)

its hit and miss with the big ends i suppose its Down to how you look after the car i know of a few people that have had many subarus and never had a problem, as for zen i cant comment although i cant see many garages offering a 12month + warranty on a standard engine let alone performance one.

Nathan6301

Rang zen was a struggle to get info from but basically said he can't help as he concentrates on mapping. So I'm going to get the engine out remove the oil and sump. O no I'm looking at a new crank bearings maybe conrods and general rebuild items. What else should I look at. Really on a tight budget tbh.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Your going to have to replace most of the parts that have oil flowing through them, so oil pump, modine etc, the engine block will need deswarfing to remove any little bits of metal, a new set of bearings and a nice new crankshaft minimum, skimp on these and your going to be rebuilding 4-500 miles down the line again.

Tony

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

Id say your main worry is the crank journals in some cases there not scarred and marks can be polished out up but by the sound of yours they prob are, id be surprised if your con rods are bent,id also want a new oil pump just to be safe.

DMX1988

Conrod bending isnt common but worth checking, the easiest way of doing it is pullin the heads of and turning the crank to see if the piston sits flush with the top of the cylinder, obv if your big ends are well nackerd you may see a small difference but could be play in the bearing. Make sure you do the little ends aswell as big, if you are gunna do it yourself remember when rebuilding to lube everything up as you rebuild and do everything right the first time, like dont try and re-use the head bolts they are cheap enough, and dont re-use the big end bolts either.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

We very rarely see a need to change small end bushes, it is not something Subaru engines suffer from. Likewise the stretchy head bolts last forever.

David APi

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

It will need:

A NEW crank, a set of big end shells, a weight matched con rod [ just one usually ] gaskets and seals and a cam belt to get it fixed. Cost done here with the engine out of the car ?? £1000.00 + VAT

David APi

01926 614333

DMX1988

Thats a cracking price that i know who to call if iver blow my engine up

W18_KJC

not good started worrying me what oil i have in mine now lol

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

I cant see it was the oil to go that fast or there would be knackered engines all over the place,mines due a change and things like this dont do much for the nerves

Nathan6301

How long would it take for you to do my engine David

Also if you were to rebuild what would you want me to remove from engine or just remove from the car as leave it how it comes ?

harleyfred

https://www.scoobynet.com/private-fo...ck-2003-a.html


Any good ?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I'm with Bob here.

5/30 would NOT kill your engine in that short space of mileage, if at all (depends how good the tolerances were when it was built).

I would be looking at the fault elsewhere - that bottom-end was on its way out before the oil change, the oil change just finsihed it off (very common on many engines, regardless of oil used).

As an aside why is the check engine light on? And how long has it been driven with that light on?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

7 to 10 working days at the moment Nathan, With priuces like that you can imagine we are quite busy.............

It is not necessary to strip off anything. It is better if we see it all and if there has been something adrift to make it fail, we'll notice it and advise. Rather than you fit a knackered part back on the APi engine and innocently transfer the problem to the new engine.

We can arrange shipping if you cannot get it here yourself. There will be a cost of course and that depends upon your postcode.

David
01926 614333

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

I have been saying for some years that if you put 5w30 or in fact 5w anything in a Subaru expect trouble.

They do not like it at all.

I have had a good natured talk with Simon Opie about this previously and whilst there is no technical reason for that to be the case. The fact is that we see more breakages of crank bearings with people running or having changed to 5w

You can of course argue that the majority of failures are on engines using 10w or 15w as that is the popular range for a Subaru, but the incidence of failure of people going to 5w from 10w or 15w is greater [ in our experience ] than people that have gone from 15w to 10w

David

Nathan6301

The car has a de cat hks filter and 4Inch stainless exhaust. Fitted before remap and last rebuild been told elm is on due to de cat. What's the best way to read fault codes ? And David I will be giving you a ring shortly to arrange what to do with my engine.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Dave, wilth all due respect, 120miles of 5w oil would not kill it. There HAS to be another underlying fault that has been allowed to manifest.

Bearing in mind this is a car with only 49,000miles that has an invoice for an engine rebuild at 40,000miles a little over a year ago. What happened at 40,000miles to cause the engine to require rebuilding? Was this rectified?; 40K is a very short life, 9K is even shorter. IMO there is a fault that has been carried over from the previous failure encountered at 40,00miles.

I think you have to agree somthing is not right here; the only other explainations is the engine has been allowed to run low on oil at some point in the past, there is a fueling/ignition fault. The car has been very heavily tracked/raced, or it has been used on fuel not that is suitable for the map (it has been remapped - noted on the invoice).

If it were my engine, I'd strip, inspect and measure every single nut and bolt before reusing. And then make doubly sure the ignition/fueling is 100% perfect before stressing the engine. To have a bottom-end fail once is bad luck, but it failing twice and in such a short space of time (9K and just over 12months) points to something else IMO.

Edit to add; the invoice appears to say the crank was reused; which may suggest this engine may have been built to loose tolerances when compared to one with an entire new bottom-end, in which case, it would much less tolerant to thinner oils when used hard (I used to codge together "sloppy tolerance" engines for off-roading, so can attest to this personally).

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

120 miles on the wrong oil [ 5W ] is more than enough to kill it; 5 miles with oil temps at 115 degrees will kill it, wrong AFR will kill it, High EGt will kill it, oil surge will kill it.

As I say to many of my customers; I can build you an engine with NASA spec moon rocket parts. You do any of the above and it'll go bang.

I have had 22B's in here at 21,000 miles, genuine, with the big ends gone.

9000 miles isn't very far I agree, some engines go wrong in far less than that. thankfully not too many APi engines. BUT in the end it is the nut behind the wheel that is the cause of most failures.

A Zen built engine ought to be better than 9000 miles, but even 9 miles in clumsy hands would have fixed it good and proper.

I agree there is an underlying fault, But it wouldn't be helped by running a turbo highly stressed engine on 5W oil it is too thin.

BUT, please feel free to run on 5W or even 0W if " you feel lucky punk " Just keep this phone number handy:- 01926 614333

David APi

ScoobyDoo69

iTrader: (17)

David,

Out of interest what oil do you recommend and personally use at APi?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

We use a generic 15w40 Semi synthetic. Same oil we've always used for over 10 years. We have it in everything no matter the power level unless the customers asks for a particular brand or supplies his own.

If you want a brand name oil then they are all much the same. So any PROPER branded oil is OK. For some reason Mobil 1 doesn't seem to work as well and I recall a bulletin from Subaru many years ago relating to oil frothing when Mobil 1 is used. But that was with 0w or 5w if I am right.

Good Luck, David

Modifications

iTrader: (6)

sorry to high jack but OPIE recommended 10w50 to me

ScoobyDoo69

iTrader: (17)

Thanks! I recall having the conversation with you previously but couldn't remember what you had said exactly.
I've always considered 5W to be too thin, and as ever I very much trust David's very experienced opinion

brownstain85

It's reading sh*t like this that's putting me off doing an oil change! Really un-settling! So many people saying they use different oil's and don't recommend certain oils that others swear by! I think I'm going to buy a moped

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

GOOD ONE!! but what two stroke oil you gonna use?!