burbling1

iTrader: (1)

The turbo is a straight swap but you need the Td05 water pipes and banjo's.
I would highly recomend changing the ecu, chipping yours or buying a chipped one. With a chip and a Td05 you will see 60 bhp gain.

Jaywalker

TD05 turbo fitted and working no smoke just waiting for the postman to come with my Z4 ECU, will have the bring a chair over to the window my legs are hurting standing here so long lol

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

It'll be a long wait mate. It is 17:47 you know, not 05:47!

Jaywalker

Lol I tried to send that in the morning from my phone but it crashed my phone must of re sent it it at 1747 lol

I got my Z4 Ecu this morning it's got a chip installed with 2 wires coming off either side of the j1 resistor apparently in the advert he said you can put a switch on the end of these wires to switch between standard map and the chips map does any one know if this is true ?

Thanks

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Yeah the switch can be fitted. Although it will serve little purpose imho. If you do not fit a switch, make sure the ends of the wires are properly insulated.

Jaywalker

Hi guys, just a quick update fitted the Z4 last night installed a switch and took it for a test drive, well the stuttering has gone, when I floor it accelerates nice and smooth pulls quite strong actually but the boost is lower than my other ECU (3B) it now sits at 0.4 bar and wont go any higher instead of fluctuating between 0.5 and 0.7bar it's worst lol I'm acutually going backwards the more I mod the car the slower it gets, is it normal after a Ecu install/reset for the boost to stay low while it's learning maybe? My other Ecu never, boosted straight to 0.7 bar after a reset, things I've noticed on the TD05 the actuator it came with is none adjustable but I pressure tested it and checked tension was ok, so assuming the Ecu is actually a Z4 and not just swapped the covers over I am lost !
Thanks again guys

Jaywalker

Just found something wrong with actuator, with it connected spring is ok no movement of the wastegate when you take pin out from arm to WG you actually have to open the WG a little to fit the hole weird lol so took my actuator off my broken turbo and fitted it with about 2mm tension just having a cuppa then going for test drive, will post my results.

Jaywalker

Nope not the actuator still boosting 0.4bar chucked the MBC on boosts 0.9bar no probs took it back off again :-(

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Remove the bottom hose from the BCS and see how it boosts then!

burbling1

iTrader: (1)

Does it boost the same when running on the chip as well as the z4? Providing you put it on a switch.

Jaywalker

At work at the mo will try both when I finish about 6ish

Jaywalker

Right took pipe off fuel cut at 1.2bar with the switch in both positions, I had a spare bit of boost pipe so thought I would try swapping some of the pipes. First one I tried was turbo to BCS because was in two parts one end bigger than the other and it boosted up to 0.9bar, what a surprise only explanation I could think of was that the small part of the pipe was forcing the compressed air through alot faster than it actually was so as far as the ECU was concerned it was reaching target boost and maybe the reason I was reaching 0.7bar on and off previously was because of soft throttling bit like squeezing the end of a hose pipe? what do you guys think? I'm a bit tired now lol and it's getting dark so I'll continue tomorrow

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Which pipe did you pull??

Jaywalker

Just read your post again lol I pulled top when you said bottom lol will do it again correctly will take off "air intake resonator box" is that the one you mean?

Jaywalker

Just back from testing with the "air intake resonator box" pipe disconnected and the J1 resistor disconnected switch off it boosted to 1bar and held, with the the J1 resistor connected switch on it peak boosted to 0.9 and held at 0.8bar but it did get stuck a couple of times at 0.4bar with the switch off flicking the switch on and off restored boost to said figures, now I want to leave that pipe off lol Are you thinking that the restrictor pill is the wrong size?,

I also noticed that she was popping on lift off could it be that the Z4 or the chip should be used with a DTA dump valve and not the recirc valve the chip is a mbm27c1028 I googled it and I think it's a fujitsu chip

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Yes i was thinking pill size or blocked pill hose.
You can leave the bottom port to vta, just block the end of the hose to stop it sucking in unmetered/unfiltered air.

That's over fueling, will be due to the chips map i would think. I run DV-less and it has reduced my pops and bangs from a vta lol.

As you see no problems when using the MBC, i would be tempted to try another BCS.

Jaywalker

Thanks that BCS is my second one lol will try my original on aswell

burbling1

iTrader: (1)

Have you fixed this now?

Jaywalker

Hi guy think I might of Sussed it, but I am presented with a different theory, i did as you suggested bat bottom hose of the BCS vta other end of hose resonator end block it up but noticed something I never noticed before, on the resonator where the hose goes on to it looks like it's previously been snapped as said before some where in this thread but the pipe that's been put in its place is really small not quite as small as the restrictor pill but not far off and it's about 3inches long and been glued into place, so I'm guessing it would be like having 2 restrictor pills yet restricting the exit flow from the BCS even more would that be correct?

Also I said that when I took the bottom hose off it with switch off chip enabled it boosted to 1 bar then the ecu cut the boost to 0.4bar then when I flicked the switch it would work again well I think I found the reason why have a read of this thread reply no 29 caught my eye (. https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...re-sensor.html ) what I forgot to tell you is that I check for error and code 45 was stored and the guy I bought the ecu off said the chip will boost to 1.1bar safely so if my map sensor is only rated upto 1bar then this would be the reason for my boost level keep going down even after taking bottom pipe of BCS,

So to test this I've left the switch on chip disabled and will drive round for a couple of days and see what happens, in the mean time look for a 2bar map sensor please correct me if this is wrong thanks guys

tom991981

Jaywalker - Have you tried running with some Octane Booster - just curious...

Seemed to cure mine so far.... not driven it much though...

For £9 worth a shot?

dj219957

your going down the wrong path changing the map sensor IMO

burbling1

iTrader: (1)

+1

I'm sure a pm to a tuner on here will tell you what boost they have mapped before having to change the map sensor.


I'm still having the same/very similar problem to you but I noticed with mine if I really boot it with wot then it boosts all day long it only seems to loose boost when I accelerate from low revs under load but not full throttle. A flick of the switch to turn it off the chip sorts it for a short period. Mine looses boost running on the chip and the z4 ecu.

I noticed when flicking the chip switch there's a small click of a relay from under the dash and a flicker on the rev counter, then the boost returns.

Is this still sounding the same as yours Jay?

Jaywalker

What are the standard map sensor rated at?

So far so good with chip turned off pulls well and holds boost it hasn't gone down once yet, yes I have tried octane booster but every time I had turned the chip on it would fuel cut and code 45 would be stored something is cutting boost at 1bar lol

Yes your last paragraph no chip on boost flick switch chip on rev counter flickers boost drops then restores but are we supposed to flick switch while boosting lol

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

+2

Early ones 1.2 bar mate. Later models (MY97 on iirc) are 1.7bar.

As 'soon' as mine sees 18psi (1.24bar) i hit cut, never before.

I asked the same question a while back. Duncans post #5 answered my question.

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ap-sensor.html


The J1 resistor is a 0 ohm resistor. Now i'm not to hot on resistance/ohms. But could it be that the switch you have fitted is causing a resistance and therefor causing your problem. You could try removing the switch altogether and leave the circuit open to see if it makes a difference.

? What OB are you using?
I wouldn't use anything but NF!

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp

http://www.fueltechexperts.com/2008/...which-is-best/

Jaywalker

I was speaking to the misses about my problem because she used my car last week and she put normal 95 Ron in lol and they moan we never listen lol I told her 99 Ron only,

So I refilled with 99 Ron and touch wood she's been ok I'll give it a week or so just to be sure, thank guys for all your help with this problem it's been driving me nuts lol,

When I work out how to post pictures I will show you the resonator with the extra small hole,

Does any one know where I can get some shock absorbers with out breaking the bank? That's the next thing on my list to do

Thanks again guys

tom991981

[School boy giggle!]

To be honest mate I think my "problem" was exactly the same hence I asked if you had tried some decent Octane Booster.....the missus fibbing about what petrol she put in it when using it.... Mine has been fine since I used that tank and filled up with V-Power. I am having a rolling road session at my next MOT and changing the plugs plus I put some injector cleaner through just in case some of the short journeys I have been doing are causing irregular flame fronts or detontation.

I would give it a reset on the ECU now its running with some decent fuel too...

Hope it stays fixed and slap on the wrist for the missus!

tom991981

No idea, it was Australian and it was the only one on the shelf. It seemed to work. I will try logging IAM again to see if its relearnt and is higher than 5, not had time of late and its not been broke so not bothered fiddling.

I did not realise Octane was quite so important to these cars but it clearly is. For intermittent boost problems I think it has to be number one on the list of things to try at this level of cost.

The "Mrs" factor....who'd of thunk it!

Jaywalker

lol she wasnt fibbing she just didnt listen to me lol

Its still overboosting cutting out with the bottom hose VTA so I tried fitting the original hose with the restrictor pill in it also VTA and no overboosting or fuel cut but boost went down to 0.9bar from 1bar with no pipe on,

so with the restrictor pill VTA no overboosting/fuel cut boost 0.9bar,

without the restrictor pill it overboost/fuel cut but boost is 1bar where its supposed to be lol well the guy i got the ECU off said it would boost to 1.1bar safely,

so for me to get the correct boost and not overboost/fuel cut may be ill have to get another resonator and connect it all up again?

i took some pictures of what my resonator pipe looks like and the pipe thats on it is actually smaller than the restrictor pill lol so i think this may have been the cause of my original problem? have a look and let me know what you guys think

dj219957

a lot of these chips are sold as been cable of running 1.1 bar but in reality they dont always make that boost.
mine was sold to me as raising boost to 1.1 bar but it only makes 1 bar.
what brand of chip is it?

dj219957

ps just blank the res box off and leave the bottom pipe (with the pill still fitted) open to atmos. i doubt that little pipe was causing a problem becuase the pill is smaller that that in the pipe anyway.