uk 2000 turbo
#31
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If you like the noise and the car is running fine then leave it on mate. It's you that's driving it.
There is alot of good advice on here, but left up to some people we would all be driving identical cars with identical mods I've had 4 scoobs all with VTA dump valves, with no issues.
There is alot of good advice on here, but left up to some people we would all be driving identical cars with identical mods I've had 4 scoobs all with VTA dump valves, with no issues.
#32
jesus christ i seem to have wanted some advice and started a war.
basically what suspention do i need ?
is the standard ecu re-mapable
fmic?
straight fit turbo's?
my mates ra has a blown bottom end so what bits if any is it worth swaping over
thanks
basically what suspention do i need ?
is the standard ecu re-mapable
fmic?
straight fit turbo's?
my mates ra has a blown bottom end so what bits if any is it worth swaping over
thanks
#33
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Suspension - well I have adjustable AGX and H&R springs on mine, but if you want to go the whole hog you probably want coilovers - I am happy with my set up - 50 mm lower than standard and nice and tight without being jarring.
The standard ECU is remappable on the MY99 and MY2000, but you may want to change out to a more sophisticated ECU for big power upgrades.
Front mounted IC - again a big point of debate on here. There is no doubt that it probably is a better option, but until you go to 350hp and above you can get away with uprating the standard top mount.
You can upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (straight fit) with a bigger intercooler and a remap for quite an effective upgrade, but you should also look to uprate the fuel pump and eventually the injectors if you start to seek really big power.
You may also wnat to look at a fuel pressure regulator and upgrading the fuel rails.
Not sure what is worth having from the RA - you would need to ask someone better qualified than me about RAs.
#34
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loud scooby: if your suspension is standard, I'd look first at solid droplinks all round, a 22mm rear arb with new bushes, better bushes on the front, an anti-lift kit and maybe a bump-steer mod, all of which can be done at Powerstation.
Then invest in a geometry set up, (same place, among others), and your suspension will now be doing what it should
Mine is a 98 car and now runs BC coilovers on top of all the above, but only after the stock suspension was VERY tired indeed and in NEED of replacement, in a group buy it was as cheap as buying standard stuff.
Then invest in a geometry set up, (same place, among others), and your suspension will now be doing what it should
Mine is a 98 car and now runs BC coilovers on top of all the above, but only after the stock suspension was VERY tired indeed and in NEED of replacement, in a group buy it was as cheap as buying standard stuff.
#35
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I have a walbro fuel pump, de-cat ninja 2 pipe, induction kit, and just fitted a VF35 turbo yesterday, and top mount intercooler (slightly bigger than uk classic) from a blobeye WRX, getting it mapped on Tuesday at Alan Jefferys in Plymouth, so I'll let you know what power I get!
#36
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As others have said
suspension first eibachs then bushes , droplinks ,rear bar etc
then get your geometry done should be less then £400 for all that
then braided brake hoses at dot 5 ( I think)
fluid those basic mods will transform your car
As you have a uk modle 2000 there is not many left now as last of the classics so get your maff sensor changed for safety as they should be done every five years
next look at the bodywork get any dents removed and work on the quality and finish off the paintwork , machine polish it if reqd
you will get more interest from other purists with a well maintained and imaculate ten year old classic modle that's nice and standard
Do an advanced driving course then go on a club run and I think you will find you should be able to keep up
if not a decat and remap and you will
and dump valves well No
most people as they join this discusson will say they are sad and chav like
That's me opening a can of worms to make this afive pager )
suspension first eibachs then bushes , droplinks ,rear bar etc
then get your geometry done should be less then £400 for all that
then braided brake hoses at dot 5 ( I think)
fluid those basic mods will transform your car
As you have a uk modle 2000 there is not many left now as last of the classics so get your maff sensor changed for safety as they should be done every five years
next look at the bodywork get any dents removed and work on the quality and finish off the paintwork , machine polish it if reqd
you will get more interest from other purists with a well maintained and imaculate ten year old classic modle that's nice and standard
Do an advanced driving course then go on a club run and I think you will find you should be able to keep up
if not a decat and remap and you will
and dump valves well No
most people as they join this discusson will say they are sad and chav like
That's me opening a can of worms to make this afive pager )
#39
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OK it is my understanding that the ECU expects to have back pressure from the re-circulating valve and is set up for this. When a VTA valve is fitted it removes that. The MAF misreads and causes the ECU to overfuel which can cause misfires and check engine light warnings and I believe premature engine wear.
If you don't like them then don't fit one...if you don't have the relative experience (like we who have had them for years) then don't bother commenting.
#40
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So in other words you really have no ****ing idea what your talking about and are just regurgitating crap that people have told you?
If you don't like them then don't fit one...if you don't have the relative experience (like we who have had them for years) then don't bother commenting.
If you don't like them then don't fit one...if you don't have the relative experience (like we who have had them for years) then don't bother commenting.
Last edited by f1_fan; 30 April 2010 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Toned it down a bit ;-)
#41
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Alas the reason why Scoobynet has gone majorly downhill nowadays...sad.You can laugh all you like IF it ever happens but I'll bet you a new engine it won't have anything to do with my D.V.I'll be sure to ignore your posts in the future.
Last edited by AlanPPP; 30 April 2010 at 03:02 PM.
#42
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So I post a technical description of why VTA DVs are not a good idea on a standard set up particularly for a MAF sensitive engine like the MY99/00 and you pick holes in the polite syntax I use to try and tell me I have no f**ing idea what I'm talking about and it's crap when it is actually fact as to how the Subaru turbo, boost control and associated systems work.
Too right this place is going downhill with people like you posting like this
Too right this place is going downhill with people like you posting like this
#43
if you ask any reputable engine tuners out there if you should fit a dump valve to a 99-00 uk turbo they would tell you not to. im not getting into any arguments about it, thats just my 2 pence worth. personally i wouldnt go near one. i have a my00 turbo and its standard bar a panel filter and hayward and scott decat exhaust system and its soon to be mapped by andy forrest to ensure its fuelling correctly and for a bit more poke. personally i dont like dump valves, maybe cause im nearly 40 lol. and i did get one fitted to my mk2 escort rs turbo when i was a lad. pmsl.
#44
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Dumpvalves existed before the word chav.. If you go on NASIOC there is a big faq write up about dvs and is quiet a good read.. I did post the link on one of the few thousand threads on here about the dv vs recirc debates.. Reading that though will help you make your mind up.
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