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Old 28 April 2010, 07:49 PM
  #31  
zippy!
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Originally Posted by wanted
If you like the noise and the car is running fine then leave it on mate. It's you that's driving it.
There is alot of good advice on here, but left up to some people we would all be driving identical cars with identical mods I've had 4 scoobs all with VTA dump valves, with no issues.
i agree mate i have had 2 scoobs both with vta dump valves and have also had no issues whatsoever and yes one of them was a 1999 to 2000 model same as yours.
Old 28 April 2010, 09:51 PM
  #32  
loud scooby
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jesus christ i seem to have wanted some advice and started a war.

basically what suspention do i need ?
is the standard ecu re-mapable
fmic?
straight fit turbo's?
my mates ra has a blown bottom end so what bits if any is it worth swaping over
thanks
Old 29 April 2010, 02:23 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by loud scooby
jesus christ i seem to have wanted some advice and started a war.

basically what suspention do i need ?
is the standard ecu re-mapable
fmic?
straight fit turbo's?
my mates ra has a blown bottom end so what bits if any is it worth swaping over
thanks
No worries, not a war just the usual difference of opiinion you get on here. I have given a technical reason as to why the VTA valve is not recommended but as the others said they have run their cars with no problems with them fitted so up to you. Personally I wouldn't take the chance unless you are going to change to a MAFless set up and even then I woudn't bother as who wants the thing making a stupid noise all the time.

Suspension - well I have adjustable AGX and H&R springs on mine, but if you want to go the whole hog you probably want coilovers - I am happy with my set up - 50 mm lower than standard and nice and tight without being jarring.

The standard ECU is remappable on the MY99 and MY2000, but you may want to change out to a more sophisticated ECU for big power upgrades.

Front mounted IC - again a big point of debate on here. There is no doubt that it probably is a better option, but until you go to 350hp and above you can get away with uprating the standard top mount.

You can upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (straight fit) with a bigger intercooler and a remap for quite an effective upgrade, but you should also look to uprate the fuel pump and eventually the injectors if you start to seek really big power.

You may also wnat to look at a fuel pressure regulator and upgrading the fuel rails.

Not sure what is worth having from the RA - you would need to ask someone better qualified than me about RAs.
Old 29 April 2010, 06:05 AM
  #34  
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loud scooby: if your suspension is standard, I'd look first at solid droplinks all round, a 22mm rear arb with new bushes, better bushes on the front, an anti-lift kit and maybe a bump-steer mod, all of which can be done at Powerstation.

Then invest in a geometry set up, (same place, among others), and your suspension will now be doing what it should

Mine is a 98 car and now runs BC coilovers on top of all the above, but only after the stock suspension was VERY tired indeed and in NEED of replacement, in a group buy it was as cheap as buying standard stuff.
Old 29 April 2010, 06:11 AM
  #35  
Matt78
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I have a walbro fuel pump, de-cat ninja 2 pipe, induction kit, and just fitted a VF35 turbo yesterday, and top mount intercooler (slightly bigger than uk classic) from a blobeye WRX, getting it mapped on Tuesday at Alan Jefferys in Plymouth, so I'll let you know what power I get!
Old 29 April 2010, 09:20 AM
  #36  
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As others have said
suspension first eibachs then bushes , droplinks ,rear bar etc
then get your geometry done should be less then £400 for all that

then braided brake hoses at dot 5 ( I think)
fluid those basic mods will transform your car

As you have a uk modle 2000 there is not many left now as last of the classics so get your maff sensor changed for safety as they should be done every five years
next look at the bodywork get any dents removed and work on the quality and finish off the paintwork , machine polish it if reqd
you will get more interest from other purists with a well maintained and imaculate ten year old classic modle that's nice and standard

Do an advanced driving course then go on a club run and I think you will find you should be able to keep up
if not a decat and remap and you will

and dump valves well No
most people as they join this discusson will say they are sad and chav like

That's me opening a can of worms to make this afive pager )
Old 29 April 2010, 06:21 PM
  #37  
loud scooby
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cool any idea wat its worth wplate facelift crystal lights everywhere turbo back 3'' 90k miles fssh ew front and rear no ac cl toad alarm/immob/tracker
Old 29 April 2010, 07:25 PM
  #38  
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Price between £2200 -£2600 apox
mods make no difference to price
most people take them back to standard to get more money

very few uk classics left now that is unmolested
Old 29 April 2010, 09:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by f1_fan
OK it is my understanding that the ECU expects to have back pressure from the re-circulating valve and is set up for this. When a VTA valve is fitted it removes that. The MAF misreads and causes the ECU to overfuel which can cause misfires and check engine light warnings and I believe premature engine wear.
So in other words you really have no ****ing idea what your talking about and are just regurgitating crap that people have told you?

If you don't like them then don't fit one...if you don't have the relative experience (like we who have had them for years) then don't bother commenting.
Old 30 April 2010, 12:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by AlanPPP
So in other words you really have no ****ing idea what your talking about and are just regurgitating crap that people have told you?

If you don't like them then don't fit one...if you don't have the relative experience (like we who have had them for years) then don't bother commenting.
I will comment as much as I like thanks. Will laugh out loud if your engine fails any time soon

Last edited by f1_fan; 30 April 2010 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Toned it down a bit ;-)
Old 30 April 2010, 03:00 PM
  #41  
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Alas the reason why Scoobynet has gone majorly downhill nowadays...sad.You can laugh all you like IF it ever happens but I'll bet you a new engine it won't have anything to do with my D.V.I'll be sure to ignore your posts in the future.

Last edited by AlanPPP; 30 April 2010 at 03:02 PM.
Old 30 April 2010, 03:25 PM
  #42  
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So I post a technical description of why VTA DVs are not a good idea on a standard set up particularly for a MAF sensitive engine like the MY99/00 and you pick holes in the polite syntax I use to try and tell me I have no f**ing idea what I'm talking about and it's crap when it is actually fact as to how the Subaru turbo, boost control and associated systems work.

Too right this place is going downhill with people like you posting like this
Old 30 April 2010, 04:29 PM
  #43  
mr hat
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if you ask any reputable engine tuners out there if you should fit a dump valve to a 99-00 uk turbo they would tell you not to. im not getting into any arguments about it, thats just my 2 pence worth. personally i wouldnt go near one. i have a my00 turbo and its standard bar a panel filter and hayward and scott decat exhaust system and its soon to be mapped by andy forrest to ensure its fuelling correctly and for a bit more poke. personally i dont like dump valves, maybe cause im nearly 40 lol. and i did get one fitted to my mk2 escort rs turbo when i was a lad. pmsl.
Old 04 May 2010, 10:30 PM
  #44  
chris270181
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Dumpvalves existed before the word chav.. If you go on NASIOC there is a big faq write up about dvs and is quiet a good read.. I did post the link on one of the few thousand threads on here about the dv vs recirc debates.. Reading that though will help you make your mind up.
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