Project 2
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 0
From: 8.95 @ 168mph. Zero to 1KM 194.1mph
Darren,
If you think it's frustrating, how about Crower pulling out the stops, getting them ready 3 weeks early, and then finding you can't get them because some sodding volcano has fecked all the flights !
Mark.
If you think it's frustrating, how about Crower pulling out the stops, getting them ready 3 weeks early, and then finding you can't get them because some sodding volcano has fecked all the flights !
Mark.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,258
Likes: 0
Just incase you guys think this project has come to a halt, far from it.
Shell work is coming on nicely. You will find large updates opposed to frequent posts at this stage, but as the car starts to take shape the thread will start rockin.
We are getting in front in order to post up complete items of the shell work ie
Removal of rear floor section & diffuser construction / Engine Bay & Interior Prepping etc.
Only have arches/bumpers & front slitter to buy to complete the shell
Engine build has commenced today after Mr DaviEs spent yesterday turning the work area into a room that resembles a hospital recovery department, (something I may end up in myself if we have any more friggen parts from the US delayed
Shell work is coming on nicely. You will find large updates opposed to frequent posts at this stage, but as the car starts to take shape the thread will start rockin.
We are getting in front in order to post up complete items of the shell work ie
Removal of rear floor section & diffuser construction / Engine Bay & Interior Prepping etc.
Only have arches/bumpers & front slitter to buy to complete the shell
Engine build has commenced today after Mr DaviEs spent yesterday turning the work area into a room that resembles a hospital recovery department, (something I may end up in myself if we have any more friggen parts from the US delayed
LOL OK, OK you impatient ******* 
Without further a do
Here's all the short motor parts in various boxes and packaging prior to unpacking and cleaning.
Crower rods
Wiseco Stroker Piston set which came complete with rings, pins and circlips
So that's all the parts laid out prior to assembly.
Without further a do Here's all the short motor parts in various boxes and packaging prior to unpacking and cleaning.
Crower rods
Wiseco Stroker Piston set which came complete with rings, pins and circlips
So that's all the parts laid out prior to assembly.
Although the block has been machined for rear thrust bearing I have to do a little work in this area first.
Firstly the centre thrust bearing needs to be ground on the thrust faces as the rear thrust bearing will be doing the work here and we dont want them working against each other.
Secondly the phase 2 rear thrust bearing has a little location lug on it which is in the wrong place to pair up with the phase 1 block. This involves a very simple modification to the block to allow proper seating of the thrust bearing.
Here you can see the lug on the phase 2 rear thust bearing clashes with where it should sit on the block.
and causes the bearing to not sit properly
The Culprit
The block and the lip that causes the problem
Here we see the Centre thrust bearing in situ which is correctly seated as the lugs are in the right place.
So the solution is a fairly simple one. I will grind the lug off on the rear thrust bearing. this will then be identical to the centre thrust bearing above.
Firstly the centre thrust bearing needs to be ground on the thrust faces as the rear thrust bearing will be doing the work here and we dont want them working against each other.
Secondly the phase 2 rear thrust bearing has a little location lug on it which is in the wrong place to pair up with the phase 1 block. This involves a very simple modification to the block to allow proper seating of the thrust bearing.
Here you can see the lug on the phase 2 rear thust bearing clashes with where it should sit on the block.
and causes the bearing to not sit properly
The Culprit
The block and the lip that causes the problem
Here we see the Centre thrust bearing in situ which is correctly seated as the lugs are in the right place.
So the solution is a fairly simple one. I will grind the lug off on the rear thrust bearing. this will then be identical to the centre thrust bearing above.
Last edited by dazdavies; May 4, 2010 at 11:44 PM.
First job this morning was to just grind off the offending lug on the block. Simple task and a 2 minute job with a dremel.
So Before:
After:
The bearing is now seated as it should be.
All main bearings in place.
Plastiguage cut off and positioned to measure the bearing oil clearance.
The other half of the block complete with the other half of the bearings was then put in place and torqued up to Subaru specs.
This then squashes the plastigauge flat the size of which is compared to a chart and thus gives the bearing oil clearance measurement.
So I now know that the main bearing oil clearances are as follows:
No.1 =0.035mm
No.2 = 0.045mm
No.3 = 0.045mm
No.4 = 0.040mm
No.5 = 0.035mm
Next up Big end bearings. That's this afternoons job.
So Before:
After:
The bearing is now seated as it should be.
All main bearings in place.
Plastiguage cut off and positioned to measure the bearing oil clearance.
The other half of the block complete with the other half of the bearings was then put in place and torqued up to Subaru specs.
This then squashes the plastigauge flat the size of which is compared to a chart and thus gives the bearing oil clearance measurement.
So I now know that the main bearing oil clearances are as follows:
No.1 =0.035mm
No.2 = 0.045mm
No.3 = 0.045mm
No.4 = 0.040mm
No.5 = 0.035mm
Next up Big end bearings. That's this afternoons job.
Last edited by dazdavies; May 6, 2010 at 03:45 PM.
Nah I was gardening last week LOL.
Right back to P2
Measured big end oil clearances also using plastiguage.
The were all consistent and as they should be.
Rods and crank assembled and placed on block ready for the next stage.
Right back to P2
Measured big end oil clearances also using plastiguage.
The were all consistent and as they should be.
Rods and crank assembled and placed on block ready for the next stage.
Ok after lots of assembling, disassembling and measuring the short block is now finally built.
The block required a bit of additional work to make clearance for the Crower rods. Although the crank would rotate through 360 degrees no problem when doing it by hand with a spanner on the crank I felt the smallest bit of resistance. This meant the block had to come apart yet again to allow for some material to be removed from the underside of the block. After the material had been removed the block was reassembled and the crank was rotated by hand, problem solved.
So it was now time to build the block for one last final time.
So EVERYTHING was cleaned and washed (where applicable) dried and blown over with an a burst of air from my compressor to get rid of any unwanted, lingering bits if dirt or swarf etc.
Once I was happy that everything was clean enough i built the block up, fitted the modified RCMS oil pump, water pemp and finally the RCMS 14mm WRC headstuds.
The next job will be to collect the heads from RCM following their Team Ice Port and polish, one piece bucket conversion, bronze valve guide conversion, head skim and 14mm stud conversion. So I'll collect the heads and all the valvetrain components at somepoint this coming week.
The block required a bit of additional work to make clearance for the Crower rods. Although the crank would rotate through 360 degrees no problem when doing it by hand with a spanner on the crank I felt the smallest bit of resistance. This meant the block had to come apart yet again to allow for some material to be removed from the underside of the block. After the material had been removed the block was reassembled and the crank was rotated by hand, problem solved.
So it was now time to build the block for one last final time.
So EVERYTHING was cleaned and washed (where applicable) dried and blown over with an a burst of air from my compressor to get rid of any unwanted, lingering bits if dirt or swarf etc.
Once I was happy that everything was clean enough i built the block up, fitted the modified RCMS oil pump, water pemp and finally the RCMS 14mm WRC headstuds.
The next job will be to collect the heads from RCM following their Team Ice Port and polish, one piece bucket conversion, bronze valve guide conversion, head skim and 14mm stud conversion. So I'll collect the heads and all the valvetrain components at somepoint this coming week.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,258
Likes: 0
Nope, sitting in the Hilden Manor car park in the Pajero (Non drifting type) waiting for my son to finish drama!
I thought you might have been late for you gender reassignment clinic appointment by the speed you were travelling
Keep coming with the pictures Daz
Mark A
I thought you might have been late for you gender reassignment clinic appointment by the speed you were travelling
Keep coming with the pictures Daz
Mark A
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,258
Likes: 0
pmsl
