bigsinky

you really just don't understand do you. tony is just too nice to tell you you are talking out yer ****. the guy has a budget. if he takes your advice is car will be scrap within minutes. certainly bolt bits on and you will get 400hp for about a millisecond. a older car will have very tired internals the first time he puts his foot on the loud pedal his engine will be toast.

a bullet proof 400hp engine costs a lot of money. andy forrest has been running cars for a long time, running his own company and using different an novel ways to make power because he has the time, but more importantly the money to do these thing.

you are entitled to your opinion of course, but don't be building up people's hope with advice, that at best is ill informed, and worst is just plain stupid pub talk that you have heard on other forums.

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

My view is that for the engine to stand the best chance, you need cold air, and the right level of fueling- after that its down to what pressure you run in the turbo, and Im sticking with a 1.3bar limit.

Im going with a twin scroll on my Classic, and am hoping for about 340/350 on standard WRX internals. And yes I have all the ancillaries.

I cant help thinking people still using the TMIC are going to be getting quite a lot of det at that power, and cant help feeling this is a key factor here.

I am also upgrading the fueling, including a parallel fuel kit, 300lph pump, injectors etc

I have gone with a FMIC to help with the cooling, but also going with a later gearbox and clutch.


All of the above using a Simtek ECU, so hoping this wont go bang.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

The 20G is NOT a 400bhp turbo on a 2litre Subaru engine - not on std petrol anyway!

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Anything over 350 on the original internals is likely to break a big end bolt and then you'll be in BIG trouble. As a general rule 16G makes a genuine 350 hp, 18G=365 hp, 20G=380 -385 hp
more than that is optimistic. 440 cc injectors [ yellow ] at standard fuel pressure make 330 hp ish. 550's make up to 420 hp at standard fuel pressure.

Watch out for cheap Chinese copy TD 05 series - genuine ones come at about £700 - 750 ish depending upon dollar exchange rates. Used ones have a habit of cracking the exhaust housing either under the stainless clamp, or inside the wastegate button. If cracked they are scrap!

Front mount intercooler for safety. Not Autobahn 88's they are barely better than original top mount, except that they are at least in a cold air source.

New fuel pump. Panel filter is Ok up to 380hp in the original airbox which at that level is very efficient. You'll have to go cone filter if you go front mount.

Your transmission might be ok at 350 hp, but won't be above that. The torque'll break it. But you might as well run it 'til it breaks, cos it's worth nowt and you might be lucky and have one of the ones that doesn't break......

And of course a remap of the Simtek.

Call after the New Year if you want a sensible chat.

Merry Xmas - David - APi 01926 614333

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

I would echo comments about the XS power turbos- When I was into my MR2 turbos, they were responsible for a few engines going, as they kind of implode.

They go under a variety of names, but price is usually a good indicator.

API are doing my work in Feb

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

A genuine Andy Forrest turbo would be the best bet.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Personally, if you're happy with 340 ish. I'd go with the VF35. Feisty, quick spooling little bugger. Tough too. Mine runs no DV -and has done for about 2 years- with no complaint. Believe me; it makes for a quick real world car!

Best of all: common as muck, so can be had cheap!

scoobyc

iTrader: (2)

Ok all good information. It is tempting to go the whole hog, but perhaps not for another year.

Going to run the car and see what happens.

Thanks Chaps

MaDaSS

Why do you run without a DV?