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Old 29 November 2009, 07:53 PM
  #31  
rooferman
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The main reason the replicas are cheaper and will fail more than the wheels they copy is because........most of the rims they copy are forged items.....

Last edited by ALi-B; 12 January 2010 at 02:10 PM. Reason: see footnote in OP
Old 30 November 2009, 08:24 AM
  #32  
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like mentioned at the start, this was a tongue in cheek thread i posted on a different forum.

Just thought i would see what reaction it would get on here, as i know Rota's are popular.

It gave the results i thought.

As said, by me and others, hit any rim hard enough and it will fail.

Also as said.... my main issue with Rota is they are a rip off of other peoples designs.

But as already said (again!) you pay your money, you make your choice!

And finally... as already said...... i am just a JDM fan boy (and proud!!)

(like a stuck record in this post!! hahahahahah)
Old 30 November 2009, 09:46 AM
  #33  
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They have had a ****e name on this forum for years as loads were cracking yonks ago!


Quite funny this, as somebody from the local scooby club has just had his set fall apart, and when i mentioned that they had a ****e name, he got all bellendish and made out that i was a liar. Not my fault SN`s search is utter crap and i could not find the extensive old stuff regarding tramp wheels.

Ramper Rotas.
Old 05 January 2010, 05:27 PM
  #34  
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I had an accident a few years ago on Rotas and it bent the hole hub carrier out of shape... what subaru said was impossible and the wheel just had a few digs in it
Old 05 January 2010, 09:39 PM
  #35  
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here's mine:



TX.
Old 05 January 2010, 09:51 PM
  #36  
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mate what size those wheels?#

i hav a big brake kit and need wheels to fit over them
Old 05 January 2010, 09:54 PM
  #37  
Mus
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It's quite sad but not everyone can aford to spunk 3k on rims
Old 05 January 2010, 09:58 PM
  #38  
53
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TX

17x7.5 ET48 clear Brembos. I have these on my classic and 18x8ET48 on the MY06 STi, again clearing Brembos
Old 06 January 2010, 12:01 AM
  #39  
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Tyres are 215/40/ZR17, note sure re wheels sorry fella 53WRX seems to know what he's talking about though

TX.

Originally Posted by jef
mate what size those wheels?#

i hav a big brake kit and need wheels to fit over them
Old 06 January 2010, 08:24 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mus 1st class sti type r
It's quite sad but not everyone can aford to spunk 3k on rims
That's why more people have the cheaper copies. The more people who own the copies - the more you here about them going wrong.

I've got Rota Formula Mesh on my classic - no way I could afford BBS
Old 11 January 2010, 12:30 PM
  #41  
RareRims.co.uk
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This thread is ridiculous

a)How many Rota's do you think I sell in the UK and Europe?

b)How many have I had back from 'falling apart'?

All Rota wheels undergo the same test procedures as any other wheel, I have the JWL and VIA test results for every Rota wheel made, Rota do not let a wheel go unless they significantly exceed the strength requirements for JWL.

I would go into the in's and outs of the wheels shown in the original post, but a rough overview.

a) the bent subzero had hit the brake caliper due in clearance issues, also note that the wheel has been powder coated, which is NOT advisable.

b) THREE of the wheels in the original post are not a Rotas

one is an HRE (how much are they ?? £3k plus) thats the one with the spokes snapped clean off..
Another of the wheels is a Konig, not a rota






People like to get their knickers in a twist, because Rota's look like the real thing.
This is the only reasonable complaint..

The answer to my original questions?

a) I sell 30,000 rota wheels per year, I have sold in the last 7 years a minimum of 180,000 wheels - thats 45,000 sets.

b) I have NEVER had a warranty claim from a wheel breaking, some claims from laquer peel, but thats bound to happen with the ammount of salt on our roads.

I take this as a personal insult to be honest, if I had ANY doubt over the quality of Rota wheels, there is no chance I would sell them.

The original poster should bare this in mind, as this post really seems to be up to disuade people from buying Rota wheels..

Last edited by RareRims.co.uk; 11 January 2010 at 02:45 PM.
Old 11 January 2010, 12:44 PM
  #42  
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Bit more food for thought for you all..

Enkei RPF01


Another Enkei


Advan

SSR


who makes 350z wheels




Jag

THIS IS THE £3k per set HRE


Rays:






Collasped Advan:





CE28


Enkei



Old 11 January 2010, 12:49 PM
  #43  
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In my personal rim destroying experience the only difference is that a cast rim will break, whereas a forged rim will only bend....

dunx
Old 11 January 2010, 12:50 PM
  #44  
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Hit any wheel hard enough and you will break it.

With a forged wheel it is more likely to bend than to break, however if you hit a forged wheel hard enough to crack and break a cast wheel, the forged wheel will still, for want of a better word, be f**ked.

For those that think that Rota copy forged wheels so they are more likely to break:

The wheels are NOT copied, as in they dont take a mould off the original and then cast it, the wheel is engineered to look similar, whilst still being strong.

We have Rota's on R35 GTR's running full slicks and bouncing off kerbs, no problems whatsover.

Pretty much all of the UK's driftcars running our wheels, no problems.

I will let this go now, but if the original poster continues to slander a product I put my name on the line for then I wont take it lightly.
Old 11 January 2010, 12:51 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dunx
In my personal rim destroying experience the only difference is that a cast rim will break, whereas a forged rim will only bend....

dunx
Correct, either way it is still useless, just with a rota you can get another one
Old 11 January 2010, 12:57 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by StickyMicky
Quite funny this, as somebody from the local scooby club has just had his set fall apart, and when i mentioned that they had a ****e name, he got all bellendish and made out that i was a liar. Not my fault SN`s search is utter crap and i could not find the extensive old stuff regarding tramp wheels.

Ramper Rotas.
This is the 'set' that 'stickymicky' is referring to, just so people can have some idea of a Rota falling apart.



I cant really see why it fell apart? can you 'stickymicky'?

Last edited by RareRims.co.uk; 11 January 2010 at 12:58 PM.
Old 11 January 2010, 01:06 PM
  #47  
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Yet more food for thought for you all:









Glad you bought Work emotions over Rota Torques?!! - you did realise that Work Emotion CR's are not actually JDM? They are cast in taiwan

on that note - heres a work emotion



















Last edited by RareRims.co.uk; 11 January 2010 at 01:10 PM.
Old 11 January 2010, 01:27 PM
  #48  
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This guy was so annoyed with JDM fanboys slating Rota, he decided to take it into his own hands:

"At the risk of having my head bitten off (again) thought i would post up the results, running these Rota rims and 2nd hand Porsche Cup slicks.

Previously at Oran Park i had run 18" Enkie GTC-01 with RE55's (SR). My time on the GP circuit was 1:16.7, which should translate to a flat 47 or thereabouts on the south circuit. However i had never run the Enkie/55 combo on the short circuit before. Anyhow, as some of you know i stumbled upon these Rota rims - they happen to fit the R35 (just). If you want to argue the merits of these being TE37 copies, please start another thread and/or send your abuse to me via PM. I just want you guys to know the results.

Fitment: Front caliper to wheel clearance is extremely close. Probably too close. I ended up running a 3mm spacer to extend the clearance +1mm or so. Running at Oran Park (where the back pit area is like driving through a frigging gravel trap) i was getting a few rocks stuck between the caliper and the wheel. Lots of scratches on the inside wheel and caliper. Not good. Probably a non issue at a clean track though. So fitment, whilst it works, it is not ideal in this regard. Sizes: The rims are 18x9.5x30 (fronts) and 18x10x15 (rears). Tyres were 2nd hand Porsche Cup slicks (270/68/18). IMO these tyres are da bomb. They fit absolutely perfectly, see pic below. You can run the same tyre front and back. Weight of this combination is about 10kg per corner less vs stocker wheels with bridgestones, or 3kg lighter vs the enkei + 55 setup. Insane.

Performance: Absolutely sensational, stunning. Now, i was running a new Willall tune which i know helped, but the car felt much lighter and nimble. It was like a difference car in that sense. It took a while longer for the slicks to come on (probably 1.5 laps vs 1.0 laps) and they are more slippery when cold. When they came on there was definitely more grip. I would hazard a guess these tyres have 10% to 15% more grip than the 55's - this is just a seat of the pants guesstimate. Perhaps a new set of the slicks would be better again.

Results: Ended up running a 46.3 on the day. So by my estimates this combination is about 0.7s faster on the short track, which should extrapolate to about 1.0 ** 1.2 seconds faster on the GP circuit. Now, as mentioned i was running the Willall tune too, which was a key component to the overall performance on the day, however the short track is rather one dimensional. I think the improvement due to the tune would be greater on the long circuit. Can't wait to try!

Rota Robustness: A have a video showing lots of curb hopping on the day, i smashed these rims like all the others We've since had the rims x-rayed and ultrasonically tested. The rims are faultless. I will post the x-rays as soon as we get them converted.
Conclusion: Tyres show lots of promise, i would love to run a new set. The rim/caliper clearance is questionable. It does work, but not ideal. I would really like to compare the caliper clearance to say a TE37. If the TE37's have the same clearance, i would not be happy to pay $5000 for a set. So, i am contemplating wht to do. Martin, have you info on the TE37 caliper clearance yet? Really keen to see how you go.


An old racer i spoke to says he used to xray every wheel he raced on, and reckons about 50% of the wheels he tested had some flaws. Anyway the ultimate test was smashing it around Oran Park bouncing off the curbs in an R35 pulling way more than 1.5g's




As you can see it's no lightweight low-load track toy, and the xray shows not only a total lack of defects, but everything to be in excellent order and entirely uniform. The track time was maximum attack, taking full advantage of the curbs.

Last edited by RareRims.co.uk; 11 January 2010 at 02:08 PM.
Old 11 January 2010, 03:45 PM
  #49  
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My OZ looked like it had melted

Similarly, I know two people who have had powder coated alloys fail across all their spokes, I did my standard STI alloys as they are past caring about.

dunx

P.S. Glad you caught my drift, bent/broken = binned.
Old 12 January 2010, 07:37 AM
  #50  
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Rarerims.co.uk

would you care to explain why powder coating is not adviseable? i've never heard about this before, but would like to refurb my current rims via powdercoating...

if it really is "bad", i'm going to have to consider having them painted normally.
Old 12 January 2010, 09:45 AM
  #51  
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It's bad because a part of the strength in a lightweight wheel is the very exact heat treatments that they get in the final part of manufacture, prior to paint.

When powdercoating some places us excessive heat, and it causes a significant weakening of the wheels, and is a common reason for failures on wheels, mainly OEM wheels that people want to tart up, and generally OEM wheels are not that light...

Painting is the way forwards in terms of safety, unless you can be sure the powdercoaters wont overheat the wheels.
Old 12 January 2010, 09:55 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by DisoDisp
Rarerims.co.uk

would you care to explain why powder coating is not adviseable? i've never heard about this before, but would like to refurb my current rims via powdercoating...

if it really is "bad", i'm going to have to consider having them painted normally.
I did have a really great article on it, but simply googling 'powder coating weakens wheels' will bring up some infomation.

Plenty of wheels that are not known to have issues have had issues straight after powdercoating.

It depends entirely on the heat applied, and the length of time it is is applied for, and the exact heat treatment/ make up of the alloy.

As you cant really tell the exact makeup of a particular alloy wheel, it is a bit of a gamble.

I have seen plenty of wheels not known to crack, crack after powdercoating (the S2k wheels above for example) I recently have seen a set of EVO 6 wheels cracking, the week after powdercoating, something that never happens with a standard EVO 6 wheel.

The Subzero's on the original post, were used on a 500bhp civic, for 3 years, without incident (originally gold, there are plenty of videos on youtube of the civic with the gold subzeros)
He had them powdercoated black, the first time out on them, the wheels flexed, caught the caliper and the pictures are the result.

There is a big story on the internet, where someone powdercoated a diving tank it exploded whilst being filled, and killed someone.

I definatly wouldnt recommend it, nor would any of the other wheel manufactors that I know of, in fact most if not all state that warranty is invalid if powdercoated.
Old 12 January 2010, 10:08 AM
  #53  
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Back to the original post

The original poster has gone very quiet

I wonder what wheels he/she has on their car, as they seemed to be very bold when it came to slating Rota..

I hope its some super forged JDM wheel, and not some taiwanese cast wheel with JDM Tax added.
Old 12 January 2010, 10:52 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by RareRims.co.uk

The original poster has gone very quiet
Owned!

I wouldn't hesistate to use Rota wheels. I have a set of racing hart CP-035 on my car and if I was to break one I'd be fooked as they are discontinued and cost a small fortune anyway.

The rota sub zero is very near the same style wheel, so I'd get a full set for less than what one cp-035 would have cost.

Racing hart


Rota
Old 12 January 2010, 12:06 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by mike h
I wouldn't hesistate to use Rota wheels.
Totally agree. I've run 3 sets of Rotas and apart from being very lightweight and brilliant value, they've all performed flawlessly. I live in rural Cumbria and have regularly hit potholes, lumps and bumps at speeds at serious mph in my 400+bhp Newage without ill effects. People who spend £3K on a set of wheels when an equally light and good-looking set of Rotas can be had for £600 quite frankly need their heads examining

I would also add that the service I've had in the past from Rare Rims has been nothing short of superb - if only all tuners and aftermarket sales companies were this good.
Cheers, Andrew

PS - if I were the OP, I'd be seriously worried about getting a summons for libel through the post. A more blatant case of libellous accusations I have yet to see on SN
Old 12 January 2010, 12:33 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by lunar tick
PS - if I were the OP, I'd be seriously worried about getting a summons for libel through the post. A more blatant case of libellous accusations I have yet to see on SN
Its a clear cut case, the original poster has admitted that his friend WAS going to buy Rota's and now isnt, and another person has commented that after seeing this thread he isnt going to buy Rotas.
So thats 2 sets easily proved that loss of earnings will apply to.

I wouldnt hesitate to sue, but the original poster has spent so much on his 'JDM TiTe' wheels that I doubt it would be worth it
Old 12 January 2010, 12:55 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by lunar tick
equally light and good-looking set of Rotas can be had for £600 quite frankly need their heads examining
Rota rims are certainly NOT as light as a forged rim.
I bought re30's to replace a set of Rotas and there is a night and day difference in weight,looks and quality.And i did'nt have to pay 3k for them either.
I am not knocking rotas, but to say they are equal to a fully forged rim is simply not true.
Old 12 January 2010, 12:57 PM
  #58  
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i love this thread.

and it dont matter what the wheel is. as said before it will break or bend if hit. what difference does it make? both will be binned afterwards.
Old 12 January 2010, 01:05 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by iamevilhomer
Rota rims are certainly NOT as light as a forged rim.
I bought re30's to replace a set of Rotas and there is a night and day difference in weight,looks and quality.And i did'nt have to pay 3k for them either.
I am not knocking rotas, but to say they are equal to a fully forged rim is simply not true.
I dont think that was stated anywhere was it?

Rota's are not as light as an RE30 no, however they are not in the same price bracket either.

Compared to other wheels in their class, then they are certainly comparable.
(17x7.5 Work emotion compared to Rota torque, the torque is around .2kg lighter)
Old 12 January 2010, 01:10 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by iamevilhomer
Rota rims are certainly NOT as light as a forged rim.
I bought re30's to replace a set of Rotas and there is a night and day difference in weight,looks and quality.And i did'nt have to pay 3k for them either.
I am not knocking rotas, but to say they are equal to a fully forged rim is simply not true.
How do you define 'quality'? If it goes round and round and can survive a battering for years on end (as all my Rotas have done) what else is there to worry about 'quality-wise'?

Night and day in terms of weight? My Rota Torques weigh around 7kgs per corner. Yes, I could shave 600-700 grams off by spending £1000s, but that's the economics of the madhouse

Night and day in terms of looks? The finish on a Rota rim is as good as anything else I've seen. And even if you do get a very slightly better finish by paying £1000s extra, as soon as you take it out on the road and get the rims covered in crap, it counts for nothing (or does your car live in the garage?).

I have no connection with Rota whatsoever (other than being a satisfied customer). My point is that for 99.99% of people who care about performance (low weight and durability) and value for money rather than brand snobbery, Rotas are hard to beat.

Last edited by lunar tick; 12 January 2010 at 01:13 PM.


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