it,s like anything practice makes perfect

 

right what turbo will give me 400 turque on the standard 2.0 litre

 

MD321H

 

cheers duncan

 

A mildly tweaked 2.5 will make 400 ft.lb. and make a very nice road car....

I was out "playing" in a 2.5 Type-R last week and it was lovely, 300/360 but felt quicker than my bug with 395/360.... as it oversteered on demand.

HTH

dunx

 

dunx i would go for the 2.5 but all you here of is them blowing up the engine will be either a 2.1 stroker or just run the 2.0 litre with some forged pistons and rods with uprated clutch and a md321t in place of the h just incase of future mods etc.

 

scoobzie,
Get a 2.5 that is built and prepared properly..... then it won't blow up!

 

Absolutely.. run at 400/400 mine was barely know it is turning over.

 

shaun i will speak to steve whitson m8 he is the one who will be doing the work and take it from there cheers

 

I run a 2.5ltr engine without any problems! If I was building another engine it would probably be a 2.33ltr not a 2.1ltr!

 

steve why the 2.33 over the 2.5 can you give me more details on this thanx

 

I would stick with a 2.5ltr, even if I was doing it again..... for what I use it for, road and track, it delivers.

 

I think a 400bhp Newage should be closer to the 11's or at least low 12s.. I ran a few high 12s in my blobeye PPP the other weekend at the Pod..

 

Having driven plenty of these on a daily basis, and as we are selling 2.1's like hot cakes I thought I would give my take on it.
For bolt on turbo users :
The 2.1 reponds very well on the road, obviously not as well as a 2.5, but so much better than the extra 100cc would suggest. On a like for like turbo basis though the 2.1 just pulls so much cleaner at the top end, and lets face it guys, if you wanna go drag racing what use is 600lbft at 3500rpm when you only drive through it once. This is what is helping my road car pull 11.1 1/4 miles @ 127+mph in full trim with a stock Sti5 gearbox and only 450hp.
Here are a couple of recent results for our 2.1 strokers, my own road car and K18LLR's with a measly 18g on 10% meth.




For rotated turbo users:
Use the biggest engine you can, lol. The larger rotated turbos flow so much better that you can use the larger engine to keep as much road useable torque as possible, but still have a car with good power at 7000rpm and beyond.

 

Martyn,

By all means post K18LLR's graph to show a 2.1lt result, and whilst I know you did the engine build for K18LLAR, please don't claim it's one of your stroker engines, when it's using Lateral custom internals

And yes, the 2.1lt is a very underrated engine. We have several already running in the 10's, and with a little help, I think Morbs could see a high 9 second run........

Mark.

 

i think with all this being explaned it will help the people on here like myself to understand were to go and what sort of build they need for what they want as most of the people on here read about engine builds and run a mile after they here money and time also the fact all the question,s on were to start so thanx guys for all the input on my thread

 

Apologies Mark, lol.
Yes it has Lateral SUPPLIED Wiseco pistons and Crower rods, but all of the machining work, building and tuning was carried out by Enginetuner LTD.
I think that we can take some of the responsibility for the figures produced and I am sure the customer will agree .
And if you wish to put the graph on your site to highlight your components, feel free, lol.

P.S. Not a Lateral supplied component in sight on any of our other 2.1 strokers including my own .

 

Martyn,
What is the approximate costs to go forged with a 2.1, fitted and inc?

 

As mentioned all internals were supplied by Mark at Lateral - they are doing very well in my setup , however the full build inluding machining, mapping etc was done by EngineTuner so a joint contribution from both top Tuners within the Subaru world

 

The options are endless, but in basic terms we will build a 2.1 stroker short motor for £2050 inc vat using the customers exisiting block, or drive in drive out full build inc Cosworth sump baffle, RCM oil pump, ARP head studs, heads fully overhauled for £4000 inc vat.
CDB blocks will require machining for the rear thrust which we carry out for £143.75 inc vat.
More details can be found here. https://www.scoobynet.com/trader-ann...ker-build.html

Martyn

 

mark can supply parts martynj can build the engine side sounds like a partnership that i would be willing to use

 

They have done a excellent job on mine, the quality of the machine work/ honing etc is spot on, it hasn't lost a single drop of oil even though I have given it some serious abuse since I collected it, its very quiet on cold startup no slap, etc, I've seen many bodged builds over the past few years and this as well as many other cars built by them are simply flawless

 

cheers ki8llr i will call matynj and see what can be done

 

Make sure you go for the optional closed deck block option for future peace of mind, I can now literally bolt on a turbo of almost any size and know the engine will cope without any issues (providing my fuelling and drivetrain is up to it lol) the 18g is doing well for now and makes a cracking road car and is the perfect setup for someone on a budget

 

That is some claim!

 

lol obviously within reason, ran mine again on the dyno this time at evolve on the way back from rotorstock at santapod, it made the following figures

 

NIce, I presume its a UK car as it has nothing after 7krpm

 

not at all the rev limiter is set at 8250rpm not too sure why it only shows up to 7k on the graph??

 

Mine is a jap car with lots of head work yet I doubt mine would rev to 8250????? I'm sure mine bounce off the limiter at 8k ???

 

Because the dyno operator has seen the point at which you make peak power and decided not to rev the engine right out for no reason.
It produces it's power nice and low due to the small turbo, stroker combination.