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Mines getting there got another parcel comming from Japan parts in couple weeks but it’s getting there . want to get the 2016 / spec steering rack then hopefully most the handling will be finished but 414 hp through the standard prodrive exhaust
Who said fast scoobys need to be loud 😉
Last edited by kershaw-330s; Mar 19, 2018 at 11:52 AM.
There you go Raggy; Cosworth 400 with 9200 miles, £28000. Like new
you would be better of buying an sti and getting the same spec engine built , save Heep’s of cash and tbh the cosworth interior makes me want to vomit 🤢🤮
you would be better of buying an sti and getting the same spec engine built , save Heep’s of cash and tbh the cosworth interior makes me want to vomit 🤢🤮
You've covered the plate on the picture, but its available on the dyno
you would be better of buying an sti and getting the same spec engine built , save Heep’s of cash and tbh the cosworth interior makes me want to vomit 🤢🤮
Fair point, but you wouldnt be able to sell it for the 30000 euros that Raggy wants for his car. And it will be snapped up in that condition and rarity, unlike many modified cars
im starting to get it on my 330s over past couple of months....basically you cannot jump in and hit the button to start anymore. well you can but its a 50/50 chance it'll start.
need to go through the stages of ignition on/dial sweep/then start.
initially thought it was a crank sensor issue as that what eventually throw a CEL after a long time cranking. a quick wiggle of the crank sensor loom wire would then 'seemingly' cure it, and i wondered if it was a dry joint so took that off and cleaned it up - but still has the issue - i can now even time it so that it wont through the CEL but will still require a loom wiggle to start
i'm wondering if its battery related - battery seems strong enough but ive read they are susceptible to even slightest deterioration in battery power
once started the car has zero running issues and runs perfectly
im not really a fan of the noise tbh but sort of stuck with having to have one - would just like a box to encase my CAI in
I was looking at it thinking the same thing even screen shorted it. Might try to make one up just. Although mines inner wing so would be more a blanking off job rather than a box.
I was looking at it thinking the same thing even screen shorted it. Might try to make one up just. Although mines inner wing so would be more a blanking off job rather than a box.
id thought about making one up as well but can just never be arsed!
yes it’s just the mishimoto air box and short ram kit as show in the pic above , it’s rather loud I used to run it without the lid as the standard scoop needs hacking up quite a bit to fit , it’s quieter with the lid on tho , one of the brackets for the lid needed modifying too wasn’t even close 🙈 , I prefure having a shorter ram intake instead of a wing mounted tho , for one you get to keep the scoop , and also it helps keep it a bit cleaner
im not really a fan of the noise tbh but sort of stuck with having to have one - would just like a box to encase my CAI in
Originally Posted by hedgecutter
Fair point, but you wouldnt be able to sell it for the 30000 euros that Raggy wants for his car. And it will be snapped up in that condition and rarity, unlike many modified cars
i spose it’s all depends what you want . if you want a car to drive and enjoy and you may loose a couple of quid in the long run , or a car you wrap in cotton wool and don’t really drive that often because you don’t want to put many miles on it just cos in five years time it may be worth a couple grand more ,, 30k is a lot for an almost ten year old Subaru especially when there are plenty of very well sorted uk spec ones going for under 20k
Last edited by kershaw-330s; Mar 20, 2018 at 11:33 PM.
i thinking about he whole set , but I’m not sure I’m going to get the benofit running front and rear roll bars already ,or as the roll bars are suspension and these are more chassis will I still experience the bennifit ? , or would I be better of going for a more rigid Cusco etc alternative
i thinking about he whole set , but I’m not sure I’m going to get the benofit running front and rear roll bars already ,or as the roll bars are suspension and these are more chassis will I still experience the bennifit ? , or would I be better of going for a more rigid Cusco etc alternative
The front flexi-braces were designed for JDM Rev C or UK My11 onwards with the revised chassis stiffness, however there is a tension setting for earlier models
Earlier models usually go with the underbrace designed for them.
The front flexi-braces were designed for JDM Rev C or UK My11 onwards with the revised chassis stiffness, however there is a tension setting for earlier models
Earlier models usually go with the underbrace designed for them.
thanks for the reply , I’ve read most of you thread interesting stuff , I’ve noticed that you run the draw stiffeners , the flexible under bar as show in pic above is not comparable with the draw stiffeners https://www.rhdjapan.com/sti-flexibl...r-grf-grb.html
are you running the other type of front bar that I posted in the original post ?? Both types are comparable with hatch , but you have two choices either single flexible bar like show about , or the two items I posted higher up , I assume for the rear there is only one for both models , well all I can find online , fixes between the two rear subframe mounts ? ,, also noticed your not running an sti front strut brace but an alternative aftermarket one , did you still experience any benefit using them with that strut brace ?
Your bays looking good ���� , what fmic kit is that ? You runnin bigger turbo ?
its an ETS intercooler with a 3.5" core though painted the core to keep it more OE looking behind the grill. its got a scoobyclinic SC46 - just need to get my injectors fitted for final mapping, target is just a solid 400/400 road car (its a daily driver)
thanks for the reply , I’ve read most of you thread interesting stuff , I’ve noticed that you run the draw stiffeners , the flexible under bar as show in pic above is not comparable with the draw stiffeners https://www.rhdjapan.com/sti-flexibl...r-grf-grb.html
are you running the other type of front bar that I posted in the original post ?? Both types are comparable with hatch , but you have two choices either single flexible bar like show about , or the two items I posted higher up , I assume for the rear there is only one for both models , well all I can find online , fixes between the two rear subframe mounts ? ,, also noticed your not running an sti front strut brace but an alternative aftermarket one , did you still experience any benefit using them with that strut brace ?
After the success with the rear flexible subframe supports I changed to the STi flexi front strut tower brace (Having had to renew all the picture links in my thread, this one may have got away will have to go through it post for post to check)
The front lower brace if you read the info on the RHD page is designed for JDM rev A or B cars and upto MY10 UK /European cars.
Subaru Impreza WRX STI A-Line GRF Applied B EJ255 (02/2009-08/2009)
Subaru Impreza WRX STI GRB Applied A EJ207 (10/2007-01/2009)
Subaru Impreza WRX STI GRB Applied B EJ207 (02/2009-06/2009)
The flexi draw wires were originally designed for rev C onwards and MY11 onward cars following a chassis design change which stiffened up this area.
However as I point out in my thread they do supply a setting for the early cars, in fact they come as standard on the R205 hatch and S206 saloon.
So you can fit either but AFAIK not both.
After the success with the rear flexible subframe supports I changed to the STi flexi front strut tower brace (Having had to renew all the picture links in my thread, this one may have got away will have to go through it post for post to check)
The front lower brace if you read the info on the RHD page is designed for JDM rev A or B cars and upto MY10 UK /European cars.
Subaru Impreza WRX STI A-Line GRF Applied B EJ255 (02/2009-08/2009)
Subaru Impreza WRX STI GRB Applied A EJ207 (10/2007-01/2009)
Subaru Impreza WRX STI GRB Applied B EJ207 (02/2009-06/2009)
The flexi draw wires were originally designed for rev C onwards and MY11 onward cars following a chassis design change which stiffened up this area.
However as I point out in my thread they do supply a setting for the early cars, in fact they come as standard on the R205 hatch and S206 saloon.
So you can fit either but AFAIK not both.
On the individual item pages you will see a little white box with "english" in it which, if clicked, translates the page from japanese.
My car currently runs (similar to S206)
plus
A great setup for our ever increasingly potholed roads
the pint im trying to make it that if I buy the front lower bar for the hatch as you pictured , says it is not compatible with the tension rods that’s what made me think of running the same set up as you , all parts are compatible with my car and I’m already running 22mm sways front and rear , and a powerflex black line anti lift and I’m going to get the white line support plates for the lower arms , I don’t see that a saloon model is any more ridged 🤷🏻*♂️ , or does the r205 run the tie braces with the single time front lower bar ?
will have to go through it post for post to check)
